Tasted in Meursault with Anne Morey, 18 October 2017.
Domaine Pierre Morey
13 Rue Pierre Mouchoux
Tel: +33 3 80 21 21 03
Anne Morey on 2017:
“You know, it’s harder to summarise an easy vintage than a complicated one. I would say that there is satisfaction. It’s not a spectacular quantity – unlike many reds. We have a new cuvée in 2017 – Champsgains in Puligny – only a small parcel on fermage but it will be a pleasure to work.”
Anne Morey on 2016:
“2016 I was happy to finish, but with much less satisfaction than in 2017 because there was much less than half a harvest. We had a spectacular outbreak of mildew at the base of the hill, it came after the frost. Morale was so low, because so many treatments were washed away by un-forecast rain – we had rain every 3 days for quite a period of time. The result was 5 hl/ha for some whites, and the reds from 8 hl/ha – this was really a trauma. The regionals and Terres Blanches were the most dramatically affected – Terres Blanches was 5 hl/ha – my father has never seen such a thing. The rest averaged 10-11 hl/ha. 1993 was the last vintage with such a pressure from maladies in the vines – the first year of bio at the domaine – but it still wasn’t as bad as 2016. So to provide such a quality of grapes and finally the clarity of the wines, this really did bring so much satisfaction. I think that I like the wines more than 2014 – I don’t talk about density but there is a depth of personality. It’s the recompense of 2016…
“As for pricing, increasing the price will financially make almost no difference to us as there’s so little wine.”
Most wines were racked just before harvest then placed back into barrel for the second winter. Anne notes that “I will see how the wines react to the cold – we’ve a cold cellar – but probably bottling in Spring.”
Of-course the domaine today is not just about white wine. There was a time, say 10 years ago, that I thought the domaine’s reds of ‘workmanlike’ quality, but they have got better and better – today they are of the same high level to the whites. But the wines are so scarce in 2016 – many fewer to taste – they are jewels, but ultra-rare.
2016 Bourgogne Rouge
All the domaine’s regionals come from the commune of Meursault, here from a little clos next to the domaine, and to the north towards Volnay. “Racked about 1 month ago. 18 hl/ha – not bad!”
Here is some density and a very inviting concentration of fresh fruit, dark fruit. Lovely volume, a fine halo of fine tannin. Broad and delicious finishing. There’s good material here plus a juicy finish. Excellent.
10 hl/ha and this year blended with the 1er cru.
Ooh, what delicious impression to this nose! Depth, fruit of fine purity and complexity – bravo – almost a hint of attractive smoke. Much silkier than the bourgogne, layered too. Simply brilliant, concentrated, delicious wine, again with a fine juicy finish. Great!
From Les Plures near the vines of the Hospices. Hailed 7 times in 12 years – of course that wasn’t the problem this vintage. This is 2/3 new oak – “What else should I do with Santenots when I have only 1.5 barrels?”
A little coaxing is required, but there’s a growing clarity of beautiful fruit – the aromatics this year are gorgeous. Fresher, a wine with more width, line and growing intensity – there’s more structure too – but that’s Santenots for you. The most delicious finishing flavour. More floral too. This needs the respect of time like all good Santenots should, but bravo – it will be worth it.
2016 Corton – Charlotte Dumay (Hospices)
Kept in the original barrel though now is racked with all its lees into tank – Anne decided not to intervene. This and the other purchases will wear the Morey-Blanc label. There’s also a barrel of “sumptuous” Mazis.
A big, punchy nose, with plenty of spicy oak and a deep velour of fruit. Volume, depth of sweet fruit – lots of oak, first spiced then more vanilla style.
2016 Bourgogne Chardonnay
All barrel, none new – did the same, exceptionally, with the aligoté too – the latter to be bottled soon.
Delicate but with an elegantly ripe (can those words go together?) impression. Wide, bright, growing, ingraining intensity. Delicious finishing. Superior bourgogne!
Ooh, a large volume of aroma – a vibration of subtle reduction, becoming ever-more Meursault with spice and a faint floral aspect – a beauty! Round, melting, beautiful Meursault. Top. So lovely the slightly more mineral and long finish.
Vines located on the Puligny side in the Clos Poirier. Poirier was the name of the family who owned the vines. Mr Poirier was the technical director of a Champagne house, and he offered the exploitation of the vines (/including Pommard Epenots) to Anne’s grandfather – who at-first refused – as the vines were a little far away!. Pierre was involved in the replanting of the vines in 1964 but was considered too young (a teenager), so only half of the vineyard went to him. Racked a little later than some. Over 20 hl/ha – protected by the wall, despite low yielding older vines, this was one of the the best yields of the domaine.
Like the Tessons, this starts with a vibration of subtle reduction. Grows with ripeness of fruit, honey, and subtle flowers. Beautiful texture, layered wine, honied flavour. The width is impressive and almost powerful. Very slowly fading. Super-impressive stuff.