Tasted in Chassagne with Thibault Morey, 16 October 2017.
6 Place du Grand Four
Tel: +33 3 80 21 31 71
Thibault on 2017:
“Well, I’d be happy with a year like 2017 every year. We started our harvest on the 30th then it rained so we stopped and restarted on the 4th September. Yeilds are a little like 2009 – I’m not a big fan of 2009, in fact most vintages ending in a 9 – I’m happy with the yields though I’d have liked just a little less for the reds and a little more for the whites – but we are only talking one or two hectolitres so it’s good.”
Thibault on 2016:
“2016 was almost half a harvest here – we were happy to finish the year with what we have after so much frost. The number of cuvées is reduced, for instance we have no Dents de Chien or Blanchots – but I like complicated vintages, not easy vintages, so I like this one!
“Pricing is a difficult thing to discuss, because I see my metier is that of a farmer, given that, it’s quite hard to see the end price of some of my wines. ”
All the wines here are bottled – one before the harvest, the 1ers afterwards.
Very nice wines at this address in 2016 – I had the feeling that whites hadn’t fully recovered from their bottling as they were very good but I was expecting even more – but the reds were really showing well.
2016 Chassagne-Montrachet BLanc
This and Puligny Pucelles have been bottled.
Hmm, bright, almost spiced and saline nose with a classic herb. Wide, almost spicy Meursault style but with a different structure. Layers of fine Chassagne flavour. Delicious wine.
2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er en Caillerets
A little higher toned, faint pepper spice. A brighter freshness, seemingly spiced, but layers of flavour, indeed sweetness of flavour. Delicious wine – perhaps I expect a little more density but this is super tasty…
A faint oak spice with a vibration of reduction. Hmm, layers – and delicious layers of flavour at that. Mouth-watering gorgeous wine. Really super wine here!
2016 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Pucelles
The nose starts wide, becomes, more floral, some salinity, slowly changing, and ever-more attractive. Hmm, really good volume in the mouth, changing, not the must focus, but there is discrete structure and always fine flavour of good intensity. Fine, elegant and beautiful, and with delicious waves of finishing flavour.
2016 Meursault 1er Perrières
Dessus de dessous! Négoce, 3rd year – this is the only négoce wine this vintage.
This is a Meursault nose with a little extra intensity of citrus. There’s plenty of that on the palate too – really a fine intensity and energy here. This is mouth-wateringly delicious.
From the Chassagne side, close to the only tree in the vineyard! One-third of a normal harvest here. One row of vines near the wall was fine, but the deeper into the vineyard you moved, the more frosted it became.
Freshness and a little salinity too. Hmm, fine intensity here – really a changing flavour, continuously evolving in the mouth. Some salinity and layers of flavour. Excellent wine…
2016 Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles-Vignes
That’s a big, attractive nose of pure and dark pinot fruit. Wide, a little flesh on the bone, growing fine tannin, almost a blueberry fruit in the middle. Slowly mouth-watering. I’d wait just a little while to start harvesting the bottles – but I could very easily drink this already today! Super!
2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos St.Jean.
The old original section, just Thibault and Domaine Paul Pillot are here.
Tight, more floral and more mineral at the same time. Fresh, wider, less fat, plenty of tannin, but alway a freshness of fine pinot behind. This not just deserves, it requires a little time in the cellar – lets start with a couple of years – but everything is here for enjoying for the next 20! Lovely finishing width of flavour too, still with a tannin coating…
Was a blend, but the Fairendes is now pulled out, so just Francemont close to Tête de Clos on the Santenay side of Morgeot.
Ooh, a nose to fall into – beautiful depth, clarity and such an invitation. More supple, much easier to appreciate today than the CSJ, still beautifully proportioned and structured. Like the nose, here is a clarity of flavour. The tannin is present but less forceful than the CSJ. Really a beautiful Morgeot that’s not too powerful but has enough of everything – equilibrium – bravo! Really a great wine!
The first vintage, from Clos d’Aimee and Paulands blended – this is a purchase.
Deep vibrant and extremely attractive nose with a little floral character too. More weight, fine structure – really juicy fruit flavour. Large scaled and as delicious as the last, without doubt – the structure is also well hidden by the fruit. The Morgeot has a hint more clarity – but that’s splitting hairs. This is big, and delicious – surprisingly friendly too for a young Corton.