Tasted in Beaune with David Butterfield, 11 October 2017.
24 Avenue du 8 Septembre
Tel: +33 3 80 24 69 36
David on 2017:
“Well, it’s ripe by Burgundian standards – many in 2017 have 13 percent fully fermented – and that’s with no additions of sugar.”
David on 2016:
“The Côte de Beaune volumes have been low since 2010, the trend has been pretty brutal. In 2015 we had 3 Beaune 1ers, in 2016 I’ve none. I’ve also had Meursault-Charmes since 2007, but in 2016 I’ve also got none. With the Puligny and Chassagne, fortunately, I had no problem. I really don’t know the exact number – maybe I don’t want to know! – But it’s roughly half a normal production volume this year.”
Usually, bottling is in March and May, two waves…
I have to feel sorry for David – he has crafted such beautiful wines, but has so littler to sell – though obviously he’s not alone in that. Really a fine range in 2016…
2016 Nuits St.Georges Les Charmottes
Have been producing this cuvée since 2013.
Deep, a little reduced, very fine fruit coming through the fog of reduction though. Supple, wide, nice brightness of fruit and beautiful clarity of finishing fruit flavour – ooh, this is delicious.
2016 Nuits St.Georges 1er Aux Murgers
More depth of aroma – though this time with no reductive help. Slowly adding a beautiful, practically Vosne-spice. More direct, frank, structured and intense. The tannin is there but it’s not grainy – the palate needs more elevage to catch up to the nose, and softening the structure but this will be excellent.
2016 Bourgogne Blanc
From the commune of Meursault. This in tank on lees, racked before harvest where it will stay until bottling.
A lovely nose – and I could be persuaded from Meursault too! Supple, good width, a super bourgogne with a subtle, really additive oak accent.
From Point Longes and Perrières – two lieu-dits
Yes! Higher-toned, a little floral accent to this – lovely. A little extra freshness, pretty citrus, modest sweetness – really attractive wine. A beauty – and so elegant!
Fewer producers and parcels in 2016, here from Les Clous and Meix Chaveaux
Lovely freshness again – floral again – harder to find the spice, but it comes. Fresh, layered flavour, lovely long and fine complexity – subtly, sympathetically oaked – like the others. Fine lingering finish too – just gorgeous…
Just one barrel – normally 5. It would usually be in tank but as it’s just one barrel, there it stays…
The nose is a little diffuse at this stage, but still a nose of freshness. Lovely bright flavour, mobile and delicious, more Puligny in structure but with a different, delicious white fruit. Quite something!
2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Embazées
A little more depth and weight of aroma, but narrower above. Here the intensity is more forward, more concentrated yet currently a little pinched vs the Monthelie – this seems much more behind the Monthelie in elevage, but the parts are fine. To wait for, but it will be good.
2016 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Folatières
An engaging but more subdued aromatic today. This is supple with a slowly growing complexity and intensity – it starts not really together, but really from the mid-palate all is an ensemble and it finishes very well with a slight accent of reduction. More elevage time needed…