Tasted in Meursault with Antoine Jobard, 09 October, 2017.
Domaine Antoine Jobard
2 Rue Leignon
Tel: +33 3 80 21 21 26
Antoine on 2017:
“Belle! It’s on about the same level as 2015 for volume – so correct – not too much! I see the 17s as having very similar aromatics to 2015, a similar bourbe (sediment) too – I kept it all as there wasn’t much. I see just a touch more acidity perhaps than 15, but I love these style of wines such as 2009, 2015 and seemingly 2017 – oh and I like the quantity too! (smile)”
Antoine on 2016:
“And 2016 has a different style, it’s fresh and classic – we may have low volume, but the wine is very fine. Possibly. it will be easy to drink young – a little like 2013 – but of-course there will be no reason to rush! How much frost really depended on the individual parcel; Blagny wasn’t frosted, but for the rest, we lost anywhere between 30 and 75%. The area of Tillets was about 30% less, for instance, but it also depended on the age and health of particular vines. But globally we lost 50% of our volume…
“Bottling won’t be before April or May. 2015 was a little shorter elevage, but this is a vintage that will benefit from time on the lees – in tank. Maybe for as much as 6 to 8 months. 2016 is not really a vintage of richness, it’s a classic vintage of finesse and clarity.”
Some very young wines in this cellar when I visited, but there is great class too.
2016 Bourgogne Blanc
A depth of sweetness but freshness too – ripe citrus, indeed yellow citrus. Bright, delicate, a little mid-palate structure, but mouth-watering, indeed mineral flavour. Yes!
From Sous la Velle, Chaumes et Corbin.
A more classic aroma of Meursault, faintly padded and spiced, not too overt – just very inviting. Lithe, intense, complex, just a little rigour to the structure and a finishing hint of salinity. There will be a lot of finesse here.
2016 Meursault En La Barre
“At 1.3 hectares, this is the biggest appellation here – but 70% was lost to frost. 1981 was the the last big frost here, but it definitely wasn’t as bad as 2016.”
Just a little more weight of aroma, ginger-spiced. More width, again a little structure that says ‘wait,’ but really super mid-palate complexity and salinity. Super wine.
2016 Meursault Les Tillets
A more discreet nose, hinting at a little freshness and density. Structural again, lithe, great energy, mobile across the palate with a good intensity. Fine, small waves of finishing flavour. Very yum!
2012 was the first vintage, 2 barrels. Came from wife’s family – also have also Derrière Chez Eduard and Perrières now. Some parts planted in 1992 and 2002 but the average vine age is 40 years.
No perfume, but a modestly ripe, yellow citrus. Hmm, good weight and a little fat, really excellent intensity, melting into the finish, for the label this is a brilliant wine – bravo!
Very different, floral perfumed. Like the others, direct, melting, here with the floral component, still. A long line of finishing flavour. All of these wines need to find a little more drinkability in the last part of elevage, but this is great stuff, bravo again!
2016 Puligny-Montrachet Le Trezin
70 year-old vines here, quite high, ‘always a super quality with grapes that keep clean, whilst resisting the rot.’
A bigger aromatic, some floral and fruit accents – very attractive. Supple, good weight, a little more overt sweetness, and a lovely finishing flavour. Really excellent villages.
3 ouvrées. ‘For me ‘atypique’ for the domaine as these vines were treated with herbicide before I bought the plot.
More depth and super-attractive complexity – yes! Supple, wide, a tiny reduction, mouth-watering flavour. Saline, faintly floral, bubbling with complexity. Oh-so young but potentially brilliant. Bravo, and great persistence here.
2016 Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru
A part of 60 year-old vines plus dome from 2009.
A bigger nose, fresh with plenty of volume. Bright, bubbling with complexity – it seems like the whole cellar is like this – again slowly melting flavours into the finish. More subtle length – but a goodie!
2016 Meursault 1er Cru Poruzots
Also plenty of volume here, a little minerality and an accent of sweetness too. Attack, direct, fine acidity, mouth-watering. Long, long, though narrowing. Today not for the faint-hearted, but here is super wine in the making!
Together with Remi, part was replanted in March 2017. The vines were on the SO4 roostock and the longevity of those vines wasn’t great. Will have been cleared for 2 vintages before replanting – the first harvest will be in 2019.
Oh yes – modest volume but gorgeous aromas, accented with spice and much complexity – yes! Wide, really lots going on here. Just a little early hardness in the middle but that will fade. Just a covetable wine. Bravo!
A nice freshness to this relatively modest intensity nose. Slowly rising from the glass is a small vibration of reduction. Supple, just a hint of fat, but really this is a wine of fresh energy and complexity. Only long down the finish does it open a little more with some extra saline complexity. This will be a great charmes – bravo again.