Tasted in Savigny (sort-of) with Blair Pethel, the 16 November 2017.
2 Chemin des Planchots
Tel: +33 6 86 92 00 29
Blair Pethel on 2017:
“Hurrah for 2017! We really needed that. It was a vintage where we treated just a little longer than I would have liked – 2 more sprays – because of the late mildew pressure that came from nowhere. But we have a terrific yield, almost full tanks – except for our Chablis!
Blair Pethel on 2016:
“Our volume of reds was down almost 75% – we have 4 cuvées fewer, and even where we have cuvées that doesn’t mean that there’s a lot of wine – we have 2 barrels instead of 12 of the Chorey-lès-Beaune. For one year only (I hope) I’ve a cuvée of Beaune 1er En l’Orme – from the middle hill of Beaune – to replace the Blanchefleurs as there is none. I will release some lower appellation 2015s to try to make up a little of the volume when selling 2016s.”
“I haven’t bought new barrels since 2012, what started as a financial necessity has become the house style – the new barrels here are always 1-year-old! I’m also doing more bottling with Stelvin Luxe, I’m not a fan of what I’ve seen of DIAM”
A super set of wines chez Blair Pethel – this year I find the quality very even between reds and whites – normally I find the whites the pic of the crop, but it’s much harder to choose this year!
2016 Chorey-lès-Beaune Maladerotres
A vibrant nose of wide, pretty, red, almost floral fruit. Here is volume in the mouth, a modest energy in the middle but then it bursts with freshness – Yes! Lovely wine.
2016 Beaune 1er En l’Orme
A little more depth at first, more purity but then a slightly reductive suggestion. More line on the palate, with a beautiful silky texture. Extra intensity, more chalky and cool than Blanchefleurs but beautiful…
Fresh, transparent, floral – a narrow but deep nose. Layers, beautifully unfolding flavours and concentration without compromising the balance. Simply super wine, floral in the finish…
2016 Morey St.Denis Les Blanchards
‘This is the only place in red that I had a normal yield’
Bright and pretty, deep and complex – a great nose. Bigger in the mouth, really a great volume of flavour. The tannins are different, there’s more grab but the width of fruit flavour is precise and delicious. Very tasty wine with a finely transparent character. Light and intensity without extraneous weight…
A really difficult parcel to work, it’s easy to compact the soil as there are springs below.
Wow width, gorgeous width, beautiful fruit – fabulous! A bright, fresh, floral enveloped freshness. More herb in the mid-palate but it’s a brilliant complexity – just a great wine. I love this!
“That’s it for the reds. The whites have a little more volume not more appellations.”
A big nose of fresh attractive fruit above, and a little structure below. A little soft on the entry but this beautiful, precise, pure wine ends with an almost elegant finish. Top marks from the mid-palate onwards.
‘In this vintage I made yield for the first time ever – go figure.’
Vibrant aromas, just a little reduced. Also on the palate but what a fabulous, fresh minerality, without rigour. Just a beautiful wine. Bravo!
2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cuvée Gelée Noir
A modest freshness and a very attractive depth. A granular complexity here, of beautiful freshness, mineral, melting, haunting length. Just a beauty
A little less open, but very attractive with gelée fruit. Extra gas, but gorgeous, extra melting flavour, fresh flavour… to die for…
Also a full yield in 2016.
Vibrant, mineral, fresh citrus – wow! Lots of volume, lots of complexity, not about density it’s about form and complexity. This, like one of the Chassagnes, has a granular complexity. Here with a slightly more pure citrus. Just great!
2016 Chablis Bougros
6 barrels, but only one in 2017 because of this years frost.
A nice breadth of freshness, with a pretty and precise citrus element. A fine perfume in the mouth, almost a hint of fresh lime – ripe lime – long, and beautiful. Super stuff.