Tasted in Meursault with oenologist Annabel Sieve, 10 October, 2017.
1 Rue Charles Giraud
Tel: +33 3 80 21 21 65
Annabel on 2017:
“There’s a lot of talk about large volumes in 2017 but it wasn’t like 2011 in quantity – and there was a hit of mildew to contend with. The frost really only compromised the aligoté and bourgogne. We’re very happy with what we have. The juice pressing seemed okay, no lack there. But Jean-Marc still changed the press program a little based on every single parcel that came in…”
Annabel on 2016:
“Our harvest began on September 19th. Using 2011 as a reference, we ‘lost’ 62% of our volume in this vintage. Some parcels didn’t even produce enough yield to pay the cost of their fermage (rent). The loss almost feels worse than the hail we experienced in 2012 – but that was also -60%.”
Bottling will normally be from February to April. It’s definitely a vintage of energy in this cellar.
2016 Bourgogne Blanc
From about 4.5 hectares of vines, mainly behind the domaine but a hectare in the Puligny area too – all-told about 13 parcels.
Bright and clean with a modest citrus depth. Volume and nice openness. Not a fine definition yet, but that’s what the tank elevage is for, and all seems in place. The finish holds really well, even a hint of tannin as a reminder!
2016 Meursault Vireuls
Planted by Jean-Marc’s father in 1968. ‘The grapes were beautiful this year.’
A little more width of aroma – here with a very subtle spice accent to the yellow fruit. A little more direction and line – certainly more definition and intensity. This is excellent and the finish is super!
There’s no Tillets as the vines have been uprooted. There’s also no Meix Chaveaux which was frosted.
The first with the modest Roulot signature reduction, pretty and precise. Lovely width. Delicacy, precision, elegance and beauty!
Subtle, fine and precise – no overt aromas in these wines. Hmm, beautiful mouth-watering flavour, sweetly mouth-watering on the acidity like the very best Chablis can produce. Just gorgeous, beautiful wine.
This 1.3 hectare clos is a monopole of the domaine – 2011 was the first vintage.
Almost a vibration of minerality on the nose – the most aromatic volume of any wine so far. Supple, fine, precise, a little more structured – very fine mouth-watering finish with a clinging quality to the fine flavour. Really superb!
2016 Meursault 1er Porusot
There was a higher and lower section but the higher is being replanted, so this from dessous. First harvest in 2020 from the new vines. All younger vines now as the older ones are pulled out.
Another big aromatic, faintly reductive and mineral. In the mouth a little extra flesh to the texture, more contemplative, beautifully textured. Fine and slowly evolving flavour, sweet citrus and fine balance – just a little less energy. Gorgeous all the same…
2016 Meursault 1er Charmes
A little less overtly open, deep notes, almost stone fruit. Lovely entry of freshness, growing width and intensity – this is a crescendo wine – the freshness is not overt but it’s super all the same. More energy in the finish than the last wine.
Vines from the 1950s.
An open nose, super depth of faintly reductive fruit but there are also higher notes of flowers – jasmine perhaps. Wide, lovely freshness but despite this freshness there’s composure. Fine clarity and beautiful slowly ingraining intensity of flavour. Almost a little dry extract in the finish. Longer term wine for sure, yet delicious, really persistent.
And a 2015 to finish:
2015 Meursault Tessons, Clos de Mon Plaisir
Wow, what a change of register – deep, almost toasty and golden fruit. Supple, opulent – in a good way – because of the fine energy that’s behind it. Layered and delicious. More about width than line though the line through the finish is excellent…