I hope Jane MacQuitty will be giving her editor a good kicking 😉
You might as well read the article now – the errant headline remains…
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Entries from 2008
burgundy wine ‘odyssey’
Two pieces to read today:
I don’t know how long this series of posts will last, but I’ve very much enjoyed working my way through Amy’s travelogue.
Flatt’s basic approach to wine collecting remains valid today:
“I always mentally expensed the value of my wine at the time of purchase,” he explained, “so that the adjusted cost never became an obstacle to uncorking a bottle. Unlike an art collection, which is permanent, wine ultimately must be consumed. You shouldn’t even contemplate a cellar if you cannot accept that fact.”
2005 remmoissenet vosne-romanée
Continuing the Remmoissenet theme – only an 05 Gevrey still waits in the cellar for the corkscrew:
2005 Remoissenet, Vosne-Romanée
From bought grapes. Deeper in colour than yesterday’s Beaune. The nose starts a little diffuse and coarse – seems affected by CO2 – 10 minutes brings cohesion, deep spicy fruit and a trace of smoky coffee – actually it keeps getting better and better. Very nice. The palate starts very grainy – dissolved gas for sure. With 30 minutes of air you get much friendlier texture, slightly forward acidity but an impressive width as the flavour flows into a good finish. Versus the Beaune you miss a little tension and gras – this is also more expensive; a) your paying more for the name and b) it’s more expensive than the same bottling from e.g. Bouchard Père. It’s good and I enjoyed it, but it doesn’t show the same level of value.
Rebuy – Maybe
in the papers
Jancis advises on 2006
Canada still discusses 2005
Finally in Napa you can learn about barrel-making. But only 3 barrels per 250 year-old tree!
2005 remoissenet, beaune 1er marconnets
2005 Remoissenet, Beaune 1er Marconnets
A domaine wine here: A hint of sweetness, a dense soft-red fruit and an underscore of minerality on the compact but giving nose – slowly opens in the glass. Poise, concentration and a very nice kick in the mid-palate are the first impressions. Slowly you pick up on the velvety tannin and the persistence of the finish. Balanced, some fat and some of the coiled-spring energy of the vintage. This is (versus other 05’s) quite well priced. I think I shall buy a few more…
Rebuy – Yes
aubert de villaine in carneros
travelling, winespectator and finally tasting
I’m on the road for a few days, returning late on Friday – two nights sleep without needing recourse to pharmaceutical products to breathe through my nose mean that the end is in sight for my cold, and hence, my wine drinking moratorium – perhaps the first corks will be popped over this weekend – good timing considering I’m planning to be in the Côtes for two days next week!
I mentioned winespectator, and there are some interesting words here from Bruce Sanderson about his recent tasting chez Jadot…
thumbs up from burghound for 2006
Burghound is very bullish on 2006 – that will cheer up the merchants and producers!
“As Issue 29 will explain, the 2005s are even better than originally previewed and the 2006 is a very good to excellent vintage that is not far behind 2005 in quality. Details within!”
Many critics were cautious (some were dismissive) because they had 2005 stuck in their notebooks, but like I said, better than 2002 at quite a number of address in the Côte de Nuits. If you’re not subscribing, why not? (Avid, not affiliated!)
shrinking burgundy winestocks…
From the BIVB:
“The stocks of wine held by Burgundy wine growers are dwindling, as can be seen from the records published by the customs and excise authorities of volumes remaining in the cellars at domaines at the end of the last campaign, in July 2007: 1.31 million hectolitres – well below one year’s harvest worth in stock (approx. 1.5 million). The last time the level was so low was in July 2000. This is a significant 13% drop on the July 2006 figures and affects all categories of AOC, both whites and reds (-15% for reds and -12% for whites). There are several reasons underlying this change. Firstly, more stringent selection processes limited the volume of harvests in 2006 and 2007. In addition, worldwide consumption is increasing (cancelling out recent global overproduction), accompanied by a search for better quality, more structured sales organisation on the part of companies in the region, and the current fashion for varieties such as Chardonnay and especially Pinot Noir. All these factors have been favourable to the growth in exports of Burgundy wines.”
Website: www.bivb.com
Comment: I think that these results can largely be attributed to the demand for the 2005 vintage – it is telling that the last time stocks were so low was just after the acclaimed 1999 vintage; a high proportion of domaines have already sold their remaining stocks, which is quite unusual for many. Price seems hardly an issue so far, but it will be interesting to compare these results in 1 and 2 years time, where the subsequent vintages may require significantly more effort to generate demand.