Entries from 2008

Inching along with details

By Ray Walker on December 31, 2008 #ray's posts

Well, the end of 2008 is closing in on us and I am pushing to get more things checked off the list for the project. We’ve been busy getting passports in order for our five month old daughter, registering the company with the CFE in France, and setting up visas. It’s really the To Do List from Hell. And really, the funny thing about dreams is that they may or may not come with instructions. Suffice to say, there is a great deal of work on my desk (edit: bedside night stand, kitchen table, passenger car seat).

Who would have thought that setting up a company in a foreign country would be so involved (tongue placed firmly in cheek)? There are so many decisions to be made, so many phone calls and middle men. Yet, with each call, each person that balks at my toddler level French skills, and each check next to a task I am just that much closer to my goal. A few friends in Burgundy have been of great help passing me along to other negociants and courtier en vins(grape and wine brokers) that are generous with advice in obtaining fruit sources locally. Currently we’re in the process of setting up a  few appointments to visit some vineyards when I visit in February. It’ll be one more detail to check off and one more inch closer to making wine in Burgundy. Here’s to a great 2009 for everyone out there!

2001 charles thomas corton clos du roi

By billn on December 24, 2008 #degustation

charles thomas corton clos du roi

2001 Charles Thomas, Corton Clos du Roitry to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus colour. A nose of macerating cherries, slightly alcoholic but focused. Full in the mouth with concentrated fruit and equally concentrated, reasonably fine and ripe tannin. Very nice fruit that hints at an extra creamy dimension and lovely acidity. This wine has plenty of muscle and I wouldn’t hesitate to leave it another 10 years, yet was a tasty wee dram. Very good.
Rebuy – Yes

louis latour 05 aloxe-corton 1er chaillots

By billn on December 19, 2008 #degustation

louis latour aloxe corton 1er chaillots

2005 Louis Latour, Aloxe-Corton 1er Les Chaillotstry to find this wine...
Medium colour. Limited high tones but decent depth of sugary red fruit. Medium density, slightly astringent but very fine tannin plus a super expansion of fruit in the mid-palate. This is surprisingly long, though much of that flavour is slightly bitter oak-juice. It’s far from seamless but it’s ebulliant delivery has made a friend of me.
Rebuy – Maybe

not for label drinkers – bouchard’s 2005 mercurey

By billn on December 17, 2008 #degustation

bouchard pere et fils mercury - new label

Definitely not for label drinkers…

When this arrived I wondered if the beige label design was for a particular market or distribution channel, but it seems that all the Bouchard bottles are now wearing such livery. I know that the old/outgoing labels were far from the height of design extravagance, but if a change was coming, I would have assumed that BP&Fils, with their Champagne House owner might have eeked out a little marketing magic. It’s probably better to concentrate on the wine I suppose…
2005 Bouchard Père et Fils, Mercureytry to find this wine...
Medium-plus colour. Direct and concentrated fruit on the nose – dark red – little complexity. Nice texture – little overt tannin as it’s covered by the fruit, little overt acidity also but it is always balanced. Like the nose, nothing complex here but it’s perfectly packaged, easy-drinking and yet a concentrated effort. Zero faults apart from the want of a little character today. Will certainly keep and possibly grow in personality.
Rebuy – Maybe

pierre guillemot savigny-serpentières 1er cru

By billn on December 16, 2008 #degustation

pierre guillemot savigny-serpentières 1er cru

2005 Pierre Guillemot, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Sepentièrestry to find this wine...
Medium, medium plus colour. The nose needs about 1 hour before it starts to become interesting; always clean but initially inconsequential, it gradually acquires gravitas with quality red fruit over a faint base of coffee. The palate starts quite roughly – carbon dioxide is to blame. Like-wise an hour from opening it is velvety, with plenty of kind tannin and good forward acidity. It is narrow in the mid-palate and narrows further into the finish. I would suggest this as being rather tight. From being uncouth and ‘short’ in the first 30 minutes to becoming ever-more engaging, this wine slowly won me over. Probably 80/100 if freshly opened at a big tasting, 90 if you are prepared to sit, wait and negotiate. I’d leave remaining bottles at least 6-8 years.
Rebuy – Yes

You can even see a video of Pierre Guillemot in Jacques Perrin’s blog-page

two 2001 malconsorts – one was definitely mal

By billn on December 15, 2008 #degustation

malconsorts bouree vosne romanee

I decided to open this pair over the weekend; both négociants, but in this case the Thomas is a ‘domaine’ wine – these are the vines which are now exploited by de Montille. Unfortunately I didn’t have a bottle of the Clos Frantin wine handy as their 01 was early in the Bichot renaisance and, from memory, is a very nice wine. First points went to the Bourée – the extracted cork smelled of sweet fruit, that of the Thomas had only bottle stink – actually it was worse than stink, it was taint. I’ll be taking that one back to Nuits in January for a replacement. Even more reason for being sad that I didn’t also have the Frantin bottle…
2001 Pierre Bourée, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Malconsortstry to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose, whilst still reasonably primary, sets high expectations; heavy with red fruit concentrate against higher tones of stems and, if you don’t swirl, an understated pot-pourri of herbs. In the mouth there is some fat, then acidity that finishes just a little tart – like under-ripe – before a very nice extra dimension of creamy fruit. The understated finish, whilst long, seems to pick-up a slightly metallic note from that acidity. I’ve never been acid averse, so despite this being less than perfect, there’s enough character here for me to buy a couple more (it’s anyway a good price) for later reflection.
Rebuy – Yes

2001 Charles Thomas, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Malconsortstry to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus colour. Classic TCA that didn’t fade an inch in 3 hours. The palate below the taint seemed not so bad, typical Moillard chunky rusticity offset by good depth.

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