Entries from 2022

And the winner is? Yes, it’s Jon Wyand, again…

By billn on April 27, 2022 #annual laurels

You have to hand it to Jon Wyand, winner of the 2022 Errazuriz wine-photographer of the year competition. Or more correctly the “PinkLady®Food Photographer of the Year – category Errazuriz Wine Photographer of the Year” – I hope it’s a big trophy to fit all that in, and his name!

But seriously, Jon is just so consistent. He has an eye for possibilities with his camera that I can only applaud. I love both his still lives and the ease of his subjects in his portraits – his winning shot this year is a combination of both – captioned by the BBC as ‘Winter prunings gathered in the vineyards of Corton Hill in Burgundy’ it is a photo taken by Jon before 8am in December, in Bressandes…

You can find the wider BBC report here.

Jon Wyand - gathering the prunings in Corton
Image courtesy of Jon Wyand

Beaune’s Bike to Care?

By billn on April 26, 2022 #events

Bike to Care

With significant impetus from, it seems, the team at Louis Jadot, there’s a charity event lined up for Beaune on Monday-Tuesday/9-10 May. Two days of teams biking (cycling!) courses in the Côte de Beaune/Hautes Côtes and the Côte de Nuits/Hautes Côtes – both courses approaching 100km, or 60 miles, in length.

As described by the website which supports this initiative:

“Over the course of the past year, our friends in the restaurant business have been living through exceptionally challenging times. In order to thank them for their fidelity to our business, to support them and to stimulate their continued interest in their business, we are launching a dynamic project that we hope will encourage industry solidarity: Bike to Care en Bourgogne

The aim is to raise funds to support the restaurant and hotel trade given their less than productive 2 years during the many covid-related closures and confinements.

Teams of cyclists will be made up of chefs, sommeliers and hoteliers from France and abroad – there is also a section for journalists – though apparently this group seem less energetic and takers were few and far between. In that context Frédéric Barnier of Louis Jadot got in touch with me; I’m no cyclist – my bike has done 10km in the last 5 years! – but I suggested that I could run. Of course, not the full 60 miles – I may be stupid but I’m not that stupid 😉

So, I shall be running the last section of Monday’s Beaune – South Loop – the small matter of Santenay to Beaune – 20km. If, from distance, you’d like to support this event and make a small donation to the cause, I shall be part of the team ‘PARTENAIRES FRANCE’ so please feel free to contribute using this link: PARTENAIRES FRANCE

And, of course, if you are in or around Beaune on that day, feel free to cheer us all along our way
The route is here

offer of the day – clos de tart 2020

By billn on April 25, 2022 #the market

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Here are the Clos de Tart 2020s from my local merchant.

You can compare these prices to those of the 2019, 2018, 2017 & 2016s which are in the brackets – from the same merchant source. — indicates ‘not offered.’

Onwards and upwards for the pricing here – but as a benchmark, almost the same price as DRC’s 2019 Grands-Echézeaux – assuming that you are on the ‘first-tier’ list of the distributors, and half the price (okay nearly 60%) of DRC’s Richebourg and Romanée Saint-Vivant…

Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2020 75cl 648.00 (595.00, 498.00, 498.00, 448.00)* Swiss francs
Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2020 150cl 1,356.00 (—, 1,050.00, 1,026.00, 926.00)
Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2020 300cl 2,842.00 (2,630, 2,300.00, 2,042, 2,042.00)
La Forge de Tart 1er Cru 2020 75cl 195.00 (—, 189.00, 169.00, 188.00)

* Including delivery, but not including Swiss purchase tax of 7.7%

clos de vougeot/citeaux auction – and the results were…

By billn on April 25, 2022 #events

Citeaux - Clos de VougeotFollowing on from this report, and tasting here.

And so, on Saturday evening, came the end of the almost week-long auction to benefit the Abbey of Citeaux. The proceeds of the sale totalling totalling €797,750 / $870,000…

The highest prices went to wines – often in large format – that were donated by other domaines for the gala dinner – there was even a little German Riesling on offer – but the prices of the bottles of the Clos de Vougeot were quite strong too – with prices averaging between 400 and 600 Euros per bottle for the 75cls – starting in lots of three and including the buyer’s premium before 6-packs and then larger format bottles. These wines are planned to be bottled in August, this year,

And for the fun of it, the top-ten lots by price, were:

Lot 130: La Tâche 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1 Jeroboam, sold for €100,000
Lot 128: Montrachet, The exceptional harvest of 7 Domaines 2016 Montrachet Producers, 1 bottle, sold for €93,750
Lot 127: Clos de Vougeot 2016 Comte Liger-Belair, 1 Jeroboam, sold for €30,000
Lot 126: Clos de Vougeot 1988 Domaine Leroy, 3 bottles, sold for €27,500
Lot 132: Bonnes Mares 2015 Domaine Georges Roumier, 1 Magnum with Experience, sold for €27,500
Lot 133: Chambertin 2009 Domaine Armand Rousseau, 1 Magnum, sold for €23,750
Lot 129: Musigny 2007 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, 1 Jeroboam, sold for €23,750
Lot 112: Clos de Vougeot, Cuvée de l’Abbaye de Cîteaux 2020 Clos de Vougeot Producers, 1 Balthazar, sold for €17,500
Lot 135: Musigny Vieilles Vignes and Bonnes Mares 2019 Comte Georges de Vogüé, 2 Magnums with Experience, sold for €13,750
Lot 113: Clos de Vougeot, Cuvée de l’Abbaye de Cîteaux 2020 Clos de Vougeot Producers, 1 Balthazar, sold for €13,750

And that wasn’t the only auction this weekend…

Baghera continues to unearth quantities of René Engel wines, this time 282 bottles and 24 magnums and raising almost as much as the Clos de Vougeot sale.

All here

2020 Beaujolais Report – online…

By billn on April 21, 2022 #reports

Moulin à Vent - February 202068 domaines visited in February – all the reports plus my summation are now online. There are also another 14 from Beaujolais which will come in the March Report.

As of the end of February, that’s the wines and thoughts of over 290 domaines that have been published since beginning my tour of Burgundy’s 2020 vintage – and you can be sure that I didn’t stop in March!

One or two domaines, during bottling for instance, are preferring (already!) to show their 2021s – but for now, they remain rare – the normal changeover to the new vintage comes around July. I’ve another 43 domaines already visited so will easily pass 350 domaines before the 21s start to dominate.

Anyway, enjoy the 2020 Beaujolais Report – there is much to enjoy in this vintage, despite higher than average alcohols…

early april visits…

By billn on April 19, 2022 #reports#travels in burgundy 2022

Early April 2022 visits

Okay, that was a nice week’s holiday, I’ll put some images of the places visited online tomorrow. But now it’s time to get the site back in order.

Later this week the Beaujolais 2020 report will be online, but first a peek at the visits that I started this month with. See how many you can name – enjoy!

offer of the day – william fevre 2020

By billn on April 15, 2022 #the market

From my usual Swiss importer source. The prices of the 2019s, 2018s, 2017s, 2016s and 2015s from previous years are in brackets for you to compare (— means not offered).

DOMAINE WILLIAM FEVRE CHABLIS 2020
CHABLIS Village 75cl 24.00 (—, 22.00, 22.00, 22.00, 19.00) Swiss Francs*
PREMIERS CRUS
CHABLIS Vaillons 75cl 42.00 (39.50, —)
CHABLIS Montmains 75cl 42.00 (—)
CHABLIS Montée de Tonnerre 75cl 54.00 (49.50, 48.00, 48.00, 45.00, 42.00)
GRANDS CRUS
CHABLIS Preuses 75cl 79.50 (79.50, 78.00, 78.00, 75.00, 65.00)
CHABLIS Preuses 150cl — (—, 161.00, —)
CHABLIS Bougros Côtes de Bouquerots 75cl 84.00 (84.00, 79.00, 79.50, 79.00, 65.00)
CHABLIS Les Clos 75cl 105.00 (98.00, 94.00, 89.00, 89.00, 75.00)
CHABLIS Les Clos 150cl 225.00 (211.00, 193.00, —)

The first two grand crus holding (price) station – but not the Clos! Considering that 2020 at all the Chablis domaines is sold out, and that most of the (short-vintage) 2021s are already reserved, these prices seem to exhibit quite some restraint!
*The prices are ‘delivered’ but will attract another 7.7% Swiss purchase tax.

largely, weekend wines – week 14 2022…

By billn on April 14, 2022 #degustation

Travelling in Burgundy this week – but to places such as southern Beaujolais, Châteauneuf, Château Commarin, Flavigny and others – rather than domaine visits – but there will be some images posted over the weekend. Also, a week, largely, away from the keyboard – but there have still been some wines:

As you may note from one of the images, an important birthday for one of us – the other of us has the same milestone in a few more months!

2008 Marc Roy, Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Prieur
The colour shows plenty of maturity – the nose likewise – but the aromas are of attractive sous-bois and none of the occasional herbacity of this vintage – it’s a fine invitation. In the mouth – yes – nothing acidic or strident about this 2008; here we have a roundness of fine flavour, modestly cushioned. Delicious, beautifully packaged wine – indeed, almost a voluptuous wine – yet completely balanced. Blind, I think I may have been guessing a 2006!
Rebuy – Yes!

2019 Les Pinot Blacks, Irancy
Subscribers will have known for a long time that I really rate this wine. It’s very early to say, but this is, by some distance, the greatest young Irancy that I ever tasted. I’m sure that it has the change to be the greatest oldest too – but time is not on my side to confirm that 🙂 Made in, perfectly judged, whole-cluster style – Bravo.
Rebuy – Yes

2020 Bessin-Tremblay, Chablis 1er Montmains
Note the label-change (from Jean-Claude Bessin) for this vintage.
In a vintage with many problem wines from the region, here is an assuredly great wine – fabulous stuff! Bravo again!
rebuy – Yes

1962 Servin, Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre
I worry; the cork – although it comes out in one piece – doesn’t smell at all nice. But I pour a sample to better appraise.
Plenty of colour but still properly golden – despite my worries, the smell is very nice, the wine is clearly fine. Growing with lanolin, creamy notes then beeswax and slowly honey too. In the mouth ripe lemon, a suggestion of oxidative style but no real oxidation. Lovely acidity and a generosity of middle and finishing flavour. Great old wine – blind (or blond suggests google), I wouldn’t for a moment think ‚Chablis‘ but bravo – clearly a rare treat! Not just stable for the 2 hours we take to drink all of it – it grows larger and more interesting in every direction!
Rebuy – No Chance!

2017 Louis Latour, Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles
The ‘backup’ birthday wine!
Here’s a fine and incisive nose – impressively floral perfumed too – not just acacia but almost a faint lilac too. In the mouth the first impression is also incisive and mineral – the texture more impressive than the Chablis. Slowly an extra barrel-derived cushioning becomes apparent too. This is a wine that’s clearly being drunk a little on the young side – but what clarity and purity despite the padded cushioning of the barrels. Clearly a great wine – which in an ideal world I might start to drink in another 3 to 5 years when the oak is less visible.
Rebuy – Yes

Some days in Chablis…

By billn on April 09, 2022 #travels in burgundy 2022

There was a mix of sun and rain this week in Chablis – and, of course, starting with the frosty Sunday-Monday.

More on the frost after tonight’s brush with 0°C – or lower. More later, too, on the moon-scapes of herbicide treated vines – but that’s not just a Chablis problem – you’re almost as likely to find herbicide in the grand crus of the Côte d’Or, as you are to find it in the grand crus of Chablis, sad to say…

Burgundy Report

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