Entries from 2019

some weekend bottles, week 06 2019

By billn on February 12, 2019 #degustation

First-up the 2017 Seguinot-Bordet, Chablis 1er Fourchaume. Drive, fresh, pure – a sleek line of flavour that whisks you into a delicious, and saline-inflected, mineral finish. At it’s best cold – and at its best, it doesn’t last long! – An easy Rebuy – Yes!

Second, another white, and one that underlines why I like this producer so much: 2014 Nicolas Maillet, Mâcon-Verzé – a little fuller, riper, more yellow citrus nose. Riper and fuller flavoured too – but with great drive and energy from its acidity. Oh yum – my slight preference from these two – and another easy Rebuy – Yes!

Lastly the 2016 Piguet-Chouet, Auxey-Duresses Les Heptures Cuvée Mathis – how’s that for an off-putting mouthful of a name(?) A wine that on one hand is ripe, round, concentrated, nicely textured and with good balancing freshness – and on the other hand is choc full of vanilla oak – as such, not for me! More white Vicar?
Rebuy – No

the auction market according to…

By billn on February 11, 2019 #the market

Well, according to Sotheby’s:

Here are our highlights from 2018, a record breaking year:

– Annual wine and spirits sales exceed $100 million for first time

– Sotheby’s has achieved over $1.1 billion in wine auction sales worldwide since 1995

– Auction sales surged over 50%

– #1 worldwide in live Auction sales, and #1 overall in Asia

– World’s most expensive bottle of wine sold at $558,000

– Highest price for any spirit in the Americas at $843,200

– Burgundy represented 42% of sales

– Asian buyers represented 63% of sales

– #1 Wine producer is Domaine de la Romanée-Conti at $24 million / 21% of sales

– Retail has highest level of sales ever, in both Asia and New York

– Highest value single retail transaction at US$1.5 Million

It’s probably good that I’m enjoying some Beaujolais this week, if DRC is now 24 million a bottle (give it time!)….

week 1 of 3 in the beaujolais

By billn on February 10, 2019 #reports#travels in burgundy 2019


The ‘lucky’ vignerons I visited last week, including ‘Fedora’ – le chien de Lapierre!

I write this whilst trying to work out where the odd sock has disappeared too – it’s already time to pack my bag for week 2 in Beaujolais!

Week 1 was such a change from the weather at home and most of the three weeks in Chablis too – they have been characterised by rain, mist, snow, and often sub-zero temperatures. There was a little of the latter in Beaujolais too, just one day of rain, but plenty of clear skies. Some fast jogging times for my Strava too – I’m much slower back home this weekend, it’s poor under foot – icy, from not completely melted snow and plenty of standing water – ho-hum!

And don’t forget – next weekend my Chablis 2017 report is online – 64 separate articles!

Anyway a few views from this week:
 

offer of the day – william fevre 2017

By billn on February 07, 2019 #the market

Hot from my inbox this morning from my usual Swiss importer source. The prices of the 2016s and 2015s are in brackets for you to compare. My full report on the 2017s will be online in 10 days, but for any subscriber desperate for info on these, feel free to send me a note:

DOMAINE WILLIAM FEVRE CHABLIS 2017
CHABLIS Village 75cl 22.00 (22.00, 19.00) Swiss Francs*
PREMIERS CRUS
CHABLIS Montée de Tonnerre 75cl 48.00 (45.00, 42.00)
CHABLIS Vaulorent 75cl 54.00 (—)
GRANDS CRUS
CHABLIS Preuses 75cl 78.00 (75.00, 65.00)
CHABLIS Bougros Côtes de Bouquerots 75cl 79.50 (79.00, 65.00)
CHABLIS Les Clos 75cl 89.00 (89.00, 75.00)

No surprise that there has been no relaxation of most prices – only the volumes of villages Chablis recovered, some, in 2017. For the others the frost was often worse than in 2016…
*The prices are ‘delivered’ but will attract another 8% Swiss purchase tax.

a little màv in the morning…

By billn on February 04, 2019 #travels in burgundy 2019

Lovely light in Beaujolais this morning – but becoming cloudier in the pm. Still, the weather looks nice for the next two days. Following just a few pics from today – all around Moulin à Vent, except where noted elsewhere – usually Fleurie in that case…
 

a weekend wine or two – week 5 2019

By billn on February 04, 2019 #degustation

I love my snow, but don’t you also just love getting 15 cm of the stuff the day before you have to set off, very early, to Beaujolais? Hopefully the roads are not all stuffed – it’s only 350 km to Moulin-à-Vent…

2012 François Gaunoux, Pommard 1er Grands Epenots
Depth of colour. The nose is a little tight – at least in the width – with modest floral top notes and a decent depth of darker red fruit. Incisive, clean flow of flavour, but certainly a little tight today – very tasty wine for sure and with decent intensity too but only hinting at the depth that Grands Epenots should show – that said, it is very ‘current 2012’ in that respect. Clean, tasty, with nice lines – but wait a while longer if you want more communication from your glass. The depth of flavour in the finish is really quite promising.
Rebuy – Yes – but wait 3-5 more years…

2002 Nicolas Potel, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Malconsorts
I’m not sure how many of these remain from my original case, but it’s 2-3 years since I last tasted one, so…
Under the LED lights of my kitchen table, there’s very little difference between the depth of colour of this, and the Grands Epenots. This nose has much more width of aroma, but a little less depth – the width being rather complex and attractive though. Reflecting the nose, the palette of flavours is significantly wider, if not deeper – but today, at least, this is on a completely different level of complexity and length of flavour – I have to say, that from a modest start, the flavour of this is quite something – almost a peacock’s tail of a finish. I’ve had some bretty bottles of this cuvée – but at least in the first hour from opening – and it didn’t last much longer than that – this bottle showed none of that.
Rebuy – Yes!

As my better half puts it, the Potel tastes old, she prefers the clean lines of the Gaunoux, though was seemingly happy to take the last pour from the Potel 😉

offer of the day – faiveley 2017…

By billn on February 03, 2019 #the market

Whilst I may have missed the 14s, here you can see the ‘progression’ of same merchant’s prices (in Switzerland) for the 12s, 13s, 15s, 16s and now the 2017s. The format here for the prices is simple: 2017 (2016, 2015, 2013, 2012) and — if not previously offered…

DOMAINE FAIVELEY 2017 – En Primeur

PREMIERS CRUS
Pommard Rugiens 2017 75cl 75.00 (86.00, —)
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Issarts 2017 75cl 69.00 (—)
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 2017 75cl 79.00 (84.00, 78.00, 72.50, 69.80) Swiss Francs*
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 2017 150cl 163.00 (173.00, 161.00, —, —)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 2017 75cl 99.00 (115.00, 98.00, 98.00, 98.00)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 2017 150cl — (235.00, —)
Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées 2017 75cl 125.00 (135.00, 128.00, 119.00, 119.00)
Chambolle-Musigny la Combe d’Orveau 2017 75cl 119.00 (132.00, 124.00, 119.00, 119.00)
Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 2017 75cl 199.00 (249.00, 229.00, 228.00, 228.00)

GRAND CRUS
Corton Clos des Cortons 2017 75cl 149.00 (169.00, 149.00, 139.00, 139)
Corton Clos des Cortons 2017 150cl 303.00 (343.00, 303.00, 283.00, 283)
Corton Clos des Cortons 2017 300cl 656.00 (736.00, 656.00, —, —)
Echezeaux 2017 75cl — (165.00, 149.00, —, —)
Mazis-Chambertin 2017 75cl 178.00 (198.00, 179.00, 167.00, 169)
Mazis-Chambertin 2017 150cl 361.00 (401.00, 363.00, —, —)
Mazis-Chambertin 2017 300cl 776.00 (852.00, 776.00, —, —)
Grands Echezeaux 2017 75cl 188.00 (208.00, 198.00, 198.00, —)
Charmes-Chambertin 2017 75cl — (165.00, —)
Latricières-Chambertin 2017 75cl 165.00 (189.00, —)
Clos de Vougeot 2017 75cl — (159.00, —)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2017 75cl 249.00 (299.00, 278.00, 249.00, 235)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2017 150cl 503.00 (603.00, 561.00, 503.00, 475)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2017 300cl 1,056.00 (1,256.00, 1,172.00, —, —)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Les Ouvrées Rodin 2017 75cl 698.00 (745.00, 659.00, 598.00, 598)

Bâtard-Montrachet 2017 75cl — (298.00, —)
Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet 2017 75cl — (269.00, —)
Corton Charlemagne 2017 75cl 189.00 (189.00, 169.00, 169.00, 159)

*There is 8% Tax to add in Switzerland, but then these are delivered prices

The first really significant price decreases that I have seen for 2017 – that said, the prices have only dropped to be in-line with 2015, though the quality is more that of 2014 – still, 2012-2015 were relatively stable prices chez Faiveley for this merchant. Only the Charlemagne seems to ‘justify’ the higher prices of yore…

changes at domaine de la romanée-conti

By billn on February 01, 2019 #the market

Received from the domaine this morning:

“Following the early death of her cousin, Mr Henry-Frédéric Roch, who had been the Domaine’s co-director representing the Leroy Family since 1992 besides Aubert de Villaine, Mrs Perrine Fenal was appointed by her family and nominated by the Domaine shareholders’ meeting of January 23rd 2019 to take this position.
Perrine has always felt deeply attached to the Domaine on both a professional and personal level. When she was a child, she often accompanied her grand-father, Henri Leroy, and then her mother, Lalou Bize-Leroy.
Between 1992 and 2004 she was the Domaine’s exclusive importer and distributor in the French-speaking part of Switzerland. In 2004 she was appointed to replace her aunt, Mrs Pauline Roch, at the supervisory board. Mrs Isabelle Roch, Pauline Roch’s daughter and Henry-Frédéric Roch’s sister, will replace her in this position.”

dublère’s 2015 côte de léchet

By billn on February 01, 2019 #degustation

Next week will be the start of lots of visits and tastings in Beaujolais – but conversely, much less actual wine drinking! Another from this week:

2015 Domaine Dublère, Chablis 1er Côte de Léchet
Some golden colour here. Fresh, concentrated yellow fruit, ripe lemon and more, though not much in the way of seashore. In the mouth this starts with attack before you slide, once more, into a ripe citrus, a mineral citrus, there are small finishing waves of flavour too. Incisive, concentrated, delicious chardonnay – yes! – but, if I might observe, not overtly Chablis!
Rebuy – Maybe

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