Entries from 2019

2014 berthaut-gerbet / chézeaux – lavaux

By billn on January 31, 2019 #degustation

Much nicer than the 2014 Ponsot of a few days ago…

2014 Berthaut-Gerbet / Chézeaux, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Lavaux St.Jacques
Ooh, that’s a deep colour. Wide and deeply aromatic – almost a grain of texture to the sumptuously dark fruit. Mouth-filling, silky, growing with both direction and intensity – super length. Such a dark-fruited baby that starts sumptuously before following a fine and fresh line of flavour through the middle and into the finish – so open and delicious today. Bravo, a great 2014!
Rebuy – Yes

this week so far – a brace of jcb

By billn on January 30, 2019 #degustation

2006 Jean-Claude Boisset, Morey St.Denis 1er Monts Luisants
A satisfyingly strong cork is a good start, but a nose such as this takes it to the next level – deep, almost a licorice frame to the dark fruit. Fine volume in the mouth, width, dark fruit that’s redolent of the nose, a modest baseline of tannin – a little plushness to the texture. Layered and über-delicious finishing – such a shame that I only have one more of these. The finish has a little bitter chocolate – some dark, almost dissolved, wood here. Great premier cru – it would make many grand crus blush! Another 5 years needed for optimum drinking, but this bottle did not last the whole night!
Rebuy – Yes

2007 Jean-Claude Boisset, Nuits St.Georges Aux Lavières
Decent depth of colour, though starting to show some age. Wide, sweet dried leaves, perhaps a hint of cocoa-powder. Medium weight, some direction, mocha-tinged fruit. The barrel is showing here, but so is plenty of sweetness from the fruit. A modest touch of tannin on the end of the tongue, and actually quite good length. A tasty wine, like the last still showing some of its elevage but very tasty. If I could choose only one, it would be the 2006. But this is very tasty wine.
Rebuy – Yes

offer of the day – louis jadot 2017

By billn on January 30, 2019 #the market

DOMAINE LOUIS JADOT 2017

As always, from my locval, Swiss merchant. First the 2016 and then 2015 offer prices in the brackets to compare, and — means not offered)

Beaune Clos des Ursules Monopole 1er Cru 2017 75cl 59.00* (59.00, 55.00) (Swiss Francs)
Beaune Clos des Ursules Monopole 1er Cru 2017 150cl 123.00
Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens 2017 75cl 69.50 (69.50, —)
Corton Grèves Grand Cru 2017 75cl 79.50 (79.50, 79.00)
Corton Grèves Grand Cru 2017 150cl 164.00
Corton Pougets Grand Cru 2017 75cl 79.50 (79.50, 79.00)
Corton Pougets Grand Cru 2017 150cl 164.00
Chambolle-Musigny Fuées 1er Cru 2017 75cl 85.00 (—)
Chambolle-Musigny Baudes 1er Cru 2017 75cl 85.00 (—)
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2017 75cl 139.00 (138.00, 128.00)
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2017 150cl 283.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru 2017 75cl 149.00 (145.00, 138.00)
Echézeaux Grand Cru 2017 75cl 159.00 (—)
Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2017 75cl — (188.00, 169.00)
Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru 2017 75cl — (269.00, 259.00)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2017 75cl 339.00 (—)
Musigny Grand Cru 2017 75cl 795.00 (—)

Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru 2017 75cl 89.00 (89.00, 88.00)
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2017 75cl 148.00 (139.50, 119.00)
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2017 75cl 285.00 (—)
Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru 2017 75cl 348.00 (—)
Montrachet Grand Cru 2017 75cl — (499.00, 428.00)

*Prices delivered, but without the 8% Swiss purchase tax…

Some cuvéees are ‘hidden’ by not being available in both vintages, but generally price holding rather than softening – though there are certainly many great wines here in this vintage.

icymi – new in the côte dijonnaise

By billn on January 29, 2019 #in case you missed it

Côte Dijonnaise – click the link for more info.

Anyone who frequents Beaune will likely know the name of Aegerter for their wine-shop, but they also have a domaine and maison based in Nuits St.Georges; here they annually vinify more than 50 hectares worth of grapes from a diverse selection of terroirs in the Côtes de Nuits, the Côte de Beaune, Chablis and the Mâconnais.

Domaine Aegerter are, it seems, hoping to resurrect the old Côte Dijonnaise climat of Rente de Giron, where they have acquired two hectares of vines that they have planted with chardonnay. The first vintage will be available following the 2022 harvest.

Aegerter, are part of a band of vignerons who are hoping to establish a new AOP – the AOP Côtes de Dijon – or maybe that should be ‘re-establish’ – good luck to them!

offer of the day – drouhin-laroze 2017

By billn on January 29, 2019 #the market

DOMAINE DROUHIN-LAROZE 2017 – En Primeur
Prices of the 2016s, from this time last year, in brackets. As each year from the same Swiss source.

Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs 2017 75cl 49.50* (49.50) Swiss Francs
Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaut-St-Jacques 1er Cru 2017 75cl 69.00 (65.00)

GRAND CRUS
Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2017 75 cl 125.00 (119.00)
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2017 75cl — (125.00)
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2017 75cl 149.00 (145.00)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2017 75cl 165.00 (158.00)

*There is 8% Tax to add in Switzerland, but then these are delivered prices

One could say that these are relatively modest price increases versus those that we have become accustomed to, yet in 2017 the yields are not low, and the quality is good though far from great. Except that this domaine’s wines are relatively cheap vs the market averages, I see no reason for the increases from a volume or quality perspective.

more wine than coche-dury

By billn on January 28, 2019 #the market

If you are short of a few bottles, Sotheby’s is now touting their up-coming Tran-scend-ent Hong-Kong sale, 29-31 March 2019.

You have been warned…

…over 250 lots of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, over 80 lots of Maison and Domaine Leroy, including 20 cases of Grands Echézeaux 1959 Maison Leroy, and 6 cases of Echézeaux 1966 Maison Leroy. Then there’s ‘over 600 lots of Domaine Coche-Dury forms the most complete ‘library’ of Coche-Dury to be seen at auction, the number of bottles potentially exceeding stocks held by the winery…

Oh, and there’s Champagne, Rhône and Bordeaux too!

Vézelay…

By billn on January 27, 2019 #events

Let’s be honest – for over a week, the weather forecast was not good for Vézelay’s 2019 version of the St.Vincent – first minus degrees and snow – which would have been preferable to the closer (to the day) forecast of rain, wind and 7°C. Given such circumstances, we chose an easy breakfast at 9am – still in Chablis – before committing to a plan of action.

Tada! – Saturday morning – dry, and now the forecast was no rain until 7pm! That would work!

We packed the car then went our cheery way – deciding to make a stop in Avallon en-route: I’d expected more, despite it being market day, I think I was expecting a little more charm – though the area around the old walls/remparts looked quite interesting. Maybe we will return in the Summer – maybe.

Classed as ‘press’ we had our own car-park ‘in’ Vézelay – a seemingly long, improbable, single-track to a campsite – though described in my paperwork as an Auberge – a very muddy campsite despite no rain – I pity those that would use the same spot on Sunday! Whilst dry there was some low cloud – the town of Vézelay was nowhere to be seen in this, so we had no idea if we had a 10 or a 30 minute walk ahead of us – it turned out to be only 10 – hooray!

Vézelay is such a cool town – winter or summer – lots of people, lots of snails, lots of barbecue andouillette, and of-course lots of Vézelay wine – and cuvée for the St.Vincent was delicious – no indication of the producer on the label, but the cork said Domaine de la Croix de Montjoie.

They were expecting 30-40,000 people over the weekend – and I expect the Sunday may have been very wet, but like last year, on Saturday, we stayed dry. Vézealy was the perfect venue for the St.Vincent.

Next year the St.Vincent will be visiting Gevrey-Chambertin – 25+26 January 2020.
 


 
And for next year, St.Vincent number 76:

chablis winemakers visited in week 4 2019

By billn on January 26, 2019 #reports#travels in burgundy 2019

More 2017 white burgundy – this from the last of my three weeks in Chablis this year – #Burgundyweek3 already.

I’ve visited Chablis to make broad tastings since the 2012 vintage, usually for 3 weeks in January – last week was the first time that I managed to see some real snow in all that time – usually the snow comes later (if it comes at all) like in March last year. So now I’ve amassed 62 domaines in Chablis and will publish the report in 3 weeks – probably 17 February 2019. That amounts to over 2,400 wines from 2017 before February’s, now traditional, 3 weeks in Beaujolais. I’m expecting March to be a mix of additional new names from Chablis and rounding up some other domaines that I missed in the Côte d’Or.

For subscribers that need specific info now re any of the Chablis producers above – send me note – and for those with a wider interest, I’ve already visited over 170 domaines, writing about how each one of them sees their 2018 and 2017 vintages, and have amassed about 2,400 notes on 2017 burgundy:

A Burgundy Report EXTRA! subscription costs 85 Swiss Francs per year.

And a few pics from last week – mainly taken in a 10 minmute window where there was actually some blue sky!
 

chablis – only snow…

By billn on January 22, 2019 #travels in burgundy 2019

Not many people were out when I decided to exercise the Scooby in the snow up Les Clos this afternoon.

Maybe even more snow tomorrow 🙂
 

Burgundy Report

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