After the (half) bottle at the weekend I was compelled to check it wasn’t an aberrant bottle – it wasn’t. One might convince oneself that the volatile impression is actually a heavy floral note – and the last drops in the glass are quite fine – but that would be stretching a point, and the flowers are not something I’d buy, at least not today. Slightly bitter and tart is something I’m more likely to forgive given its age. Let’s see, but definitely a wine to leave sleeping – its first three years were way better than this showing; I’m almost tempted to try an Amoureuses to make sure I don’t miss something…

After the 99 Château de Chambolle-Musigny villages, this 96 Château de Chorey 1er is clearly a much better wine – at least, from these 2 half-bottles anyway. I expect the ‘general market’ chooses to position these wines differently, but the market often occupies a world where taste is irrelevant. Not as tannic and (perhaps) concentrated as the Grivot Roncières, but that’s a blend of Nuits vs. Beaune and Grivot vs. Germain! Equally engaging in it’s own way though.

I really should open another Mugnier to see if it that performance is consistent – later this week perhaps…

1996 Château Chorey-lès-Beaune, Beaune 1er Les Teurons
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is wide, and reasonably deep – lovely warm red fruit aromas that are edged with a little green seasoning – eventually the nose fills with floral top-notes too, aromatically this gets better and better, peaking after about 90 minutes. In the mouth there’s good acidity and extra density, hence, texture too after the Mugnier. Much less ‘ephemeral’ than the Mugnier but here is much more flavour and dimension, indeed there’s a core of density that implies a few more years are required to fully unwind it. Lovely wine. Very drinkable in this format today, but clearly it’s still a baby.
Rebuy – Yes

Way-back-when (actually about 8 years ago), out of half a dozen decent 99 Chambolles this was the one that had that extra dimension. I put plenty of halves in the cellar to keep me away from the bigger bottles, but also to for keeping an eye on the vintage; I have to say that this half-bottle isn’t representative of the vintage, and hopefully not the rest of these bottles, I suppose I might have to try another in the near future…

1999 J-F Mugnier, Chambolle-Musigny
Medium colour. The nose seems a tad volatile though below it could be described as quite pretty as its red fruit base slowly evolves. Nicely balanced, with very good acidity. Elegant rather than slight – though not a million miles from the latter – that would be forgiven if it had a beguiling touch too – today it doesn’t. Hopefully a phase, but in a half bottle this is quite ‘ready’ if far from engrossing. Less good than 18 months ago, that volatile hint being an exceptional bottle I hope…
Rebuy – Maybe

What can you learn from opening only two bottles – half bottles at that – and from the same producer too. Actually quite a bit I think, after the premier cru I decidied not to open a Clos de Vougeot! Okay, Grivot is not your average producer, but useful data (to me) all the same. That data says ‘wait’ but nothing to worry about. I guess I have to drink more from 2007-09 plus 70s stuff!

1996 Jean Grivot, Nuits St.Georges Les Lavières
Medium colour. The nose is wide and a little wild, perhaps a soupçon of brett? Maybe not, a clearer fruit note does come through, but there is plenty here that suggests a measure of aromatic maturity. If the nose hints at maturity, the palate less so; excellent acidity is the base of a taught and wiry aspect to this wine – quite narrow and primary in the mid-palate. I would say, despite the aromas, this needs at least another 3 years in the cellar for something equating to the first stage of marturity. That said – it is quite drinkable now – in this format.
Rebuy – Yes

1996 Jean Grivot, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Roncières
Medium-plus colour. The nose has a junior version of what I thought a hint bretty in the villages wine, but to be honest, I do like it at this low level where it seems more mineral. Well behind is a very dark red and black fruit bubbling under the horizon. After the villages, this is a big mouthful of wine – plenty of furry tannin, very good acidity and even more impressive intensity. It remains a little linear at the core, but the finish lingers well. Not surprisingly this seems less mature than the villages, but frankly today it is quite exciting and just as drinkable as the Lavières. I’m so glad that I have some ‘big’ bottles waiting too!
Rebuy – Yes

Henri Royer-Lebon was a négoce business based in Beaune, but a great vintage and a good vineyard apparently is a good foil to lack of renown. So there you have it – forget its masculine name-tag BS and buy as much 2005 Pommard as you can find, then drink between 2035-2045 with your iPuppy and iGeisha. It seems that I’m already getting too old for this game, but hopefully the corks will last that long even if I don’t!

1978 Henri Royer-Lebon, Pommard 1er Pézerolles
Bright medium. medium-plus red mahogany colour. The nose is very clean, showing both width and depth, initially a depth of prune overlaid with strawberry preserve and a hint of chocolate – a great start. Lovely in the mouth, just slightly plush but borne on a carpet of fine acidity that really slides you through a mid-palate ‘pop’ of red fruit before prolonging a finish whose final note is of a bitter chocolate. Tannin can be found, but only if you chew long enough. Despite its silken grace this is a wine of minerality that is far from decline – it might still improve!
Rebuy – No Chance!