Entries from 2010

1985 guillemard-dupont et fils pommard

By billn on October 20, 2010 #degustation

Seems we were ‘lucky’ to leave France on Saturday, perhaps a day or two later and we would have been stuck there without ‘juice’ for the car. Still, there would be worse places ‘(eh, dear reader?)’

1985 Guillemard-Dupont et Fils, Pommard
Medium colour with a touch of orange about it. The nose has width, if not depth, and showcases sweetly baked red fruit tarts. In the mouth this is very smooth though if you really search you might come up with a suggestion of tannin near the finish. The fruit in the mouth is also sweet and it’s quite enough to offset a slightly tart impression given by the acidity. This is mature and very drinkable – not significantly complex, but that’s the why its a village label.
Rebuy – Yes

Anybody know anything about the domaine? It seems it was reasonably large and based higher-up the winding road out of Pommard in Meloisey at the time of RM Parker’s 1989 book on Burgundy, but I find no trace of it now.

fourrier griotte-chambertin 2004

By billn on October 18, 2010 #degustation

It’s a shame that you no-longer see tasting notes for wines such as these. In former, more affordable days these bottles were often fun for various get-togethers, nowadays they much more often left in the cellar…

2004 Fourrier, Griotte-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts with plenty of mushroom rather than the customary reduction, actually with swirling the reduction does make an appearance – a wine that needs a little air. Air dissolves the mushrooms and delivers a lovely pure red berry note, though this is also a transition to deeper, slightly darker red fruit aromas – rather primary though, as is the Griotte fashon. The well-padded palate starts quite silky though there is some bitterness to the finish, that said it’s in a bitter-chocolate style which is far from problematic. Like a number of 04s the acidity is a little elevated but that’s its position on the aging curve, nothing more. There is an interesting and very slowly emerging stony flavour in the finish. None of the disappointingly monolithic Clos St.Jacques proportions here. A very good wine that drinks quite well considering its age. Not a trace of the vintage malaise either.
Rebuy – Yes

mark de morey – burgundy harvest diary #last(?)

By Marko de Morey et de la Vosne on October 18, 2010 #vintage 2010

Jumping ahead of myself but ‘inspired’ by Bill’s recent excellent photos, here’s 3 taken on the morning of taking my sad leave of Morey-St-Denis. Taken over the wall from Arlaud’s entrance for the first 2, and from the wall at the top of the car park for the bar/boulangerie, these were taken about 7.30 a.m. as the sun came up over the eastern horizon. The orange glow infused the walls of the village in a lovely way.

Enjoy !

rain, rain, go away & ponnelle 1983…

By billn on October 17, 2010 #degustation#travel

The weather had to change (of-course) and on Saturday we awoke to precipitation – the camera is not likely to be exercised. Still, I have a tasting in Volnay at 10am and another in Savigny at 3:15 – not bad for a Saturday – sandwiched in-between is a lunch in the café of Puligny and a quick scoot around the bookshop in Beaune.

After a week of eating and tasting, a simple plate of cheese on toast is perfect for the last hours at home – the ’83 Nuits is also not too bad! This is now a monopole of Prieuré-Roch and I note was imported into Switzerland by (possibly still) the most important Swiss merchant – well, they distribute DRC anyway!

ponnelle-nuits-corvees-1983

1983 Pierre Ponnelle, Nuits St.Georges 1er Le Clos des Corvées
Some signs of seepage above the cork, but it comes out without major headaches and the wine seems fresh enough. Dark, fresh aromas of berries and bramble – it’s certainly at the darker end of the fruit-colour spectrum but there’s nothing cooked about it and there is no sense of decay – it’s very nice indeed. The palate is a bit of a surprise as there is a dryness from still obvious tannin – this must have been an absolute brute in its youth! Good acidity and likewise there’s energy too – the juxtaposition with the nose is that you expect more sweetness on the palate than this wine is prepared to give. Without sight of the vintage I’d have ventured to suggest leaving it in the cellar another 5 years or so – in some respects it reminds me of some 95s I’ve tasted!
Rebuy – Maybe

chassagne and a little ‘paulée’

By billn on October 16, 2010 #picture gallery#travel#travel pics#vintage 2010

Friday. The last day of (almost) sun in the côtes – it was a little misty, but dry. I can’t ever remember walking through the vines in September in ‘normal’ shoes – the ground was so dry. Lots of work was being done replacing old/dead vines and even a bit of ploughing here and there before the rain that was forecast for the weekend.

The pictures that follow are mainly from around and in the Clos St.Jean (1er) in Chassagne-Montrachet. It’s not every autumn that the chardonnay and pinot vines are so well delineated in the vineyard – and yes, the red ones are the pinot!

The evening was a mini-paulée of sorts. This week saw the conclusion of the harvest for the home team – yes even grapes were harvested! A parcel of Hautes Côtes was picked on Monday – the grapes were nothing special but will make a very good rosé – as some vignerons would say, they were still too good for Cremant! The majority of the harvest team (stageurs) were still at the domaine so a dinner seemed appropriate! Two whites; a 2003 Jomain Puligny Perrières was a surprising smooth and interesting aperitif – far from ideal acidity but in a very nice shape – followed by a lovely 2007 Javilier Meursault Clos du Cromin. The reds were a world tour; The previously tasted (here) Donatsch 2008 ‘Passion’, a Californian (non-pinot) whose name I forget, a South African (Danie de Wet) Nature in Concert Pinot and finally a 1990 Lafarge Beaune 1er Grèves. See – we were quite modest 😉

Musical backdrop to the 2010 vintage: Citizen Cope – thanks Amy!

a few more pics – beaune and chassagne

By billn on October 13, 2010 #picture gallery#travel#travel pics

The indian summer continues. A few more pics here from Beaune (mainly) with a couple thrown in from Chassagne-Montrachet. Two different Montrachets today 😉

a day in meursault plus a two-faced volnay…

By billn on October 13, 2010 #degustation#picture gallery#travel#travel pics

It’s clearly an indian summer in the côtes – and we really have something of the golden hillside as a backdrop.

Three lovely visits yesterday, three more today and four appointments each on Thursday and Friday. I thnk I have just the one appointment on Saturday – that should be enough as ‘part recovery’ – when I visit Thomas Bouley. I’ll be able to ask him about the following…

2007 Jean-Marc Bouley, Volnay Clos de la Cave
This is a wine that changed so much over 30 minutes that it almost requires two tasting notes. Drunk over a dinner in the Ermtage de Corton. It started medium colour and with quite a stemmy and not particularly attractive nose. The palate was a little lightweight and I didn’t percieve that much balance. Moving on. From about 30 minutes onwards, I had the impression that the colour had deepened (probably a little more wine in the glass!) and the nose was padding out with more red fruit aromas around the core of stems – not ‘gorgeous’ but now quite engaging. The palate had also transformed, delivering more padding and flavour so at the same time easing the acidity. The last drops were quite balanced and those of a very nice wine. I expect Thomas will be recommending that I get a bit more air into his cuvées!
Rebuy – Yes

A Meursault Gallery – Pictures from 12. Oct. 2010

1982 rené engel vosne-romanée 1er les brulées

By billn on October 10, 2010 #degustation

rene-engel-vosne-brulees-1982Drunk on the 10th of the 10th 2010 – as luck would have it, certainly it was a 10 out of 10 too!

An interesting bottle this. The label has the minimalism of the last Engel bottles, in fact slightly more-so, but the bottle is clearly not standard.

The large Château-Neuf-du-Pape-style embossing on the neck, is for Cave BB – a business still running as a wine merchant in Switzerland – and around the base of the bottle is embossed: Selection Baggli – Zolikon – Zurich. Engel did sell a lot of wine in barrel in those days, I’m just not positive if that’s what happened here, or whether Cave Baggli supplied the bottles. I’ve sent a mail to Baggli – perhaps somebody will remember…

I wish I could say that I got some info from the cork, but having decided to use an ‘ah-so’ cork remover, I really should have secured the cork with the worm of a screwpull too – too late I thought as the cork plopped into the bottle – bugger! Quickly everything went into the decanter – and very clean was the wine too – not just visually.

1982 René Engel, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Brulées
Medium, medium pale colour. Right from the start, there’s not a hint of leaf, soil or mustiness on the nose, just a frankly gorgeous blend of precise red berries, brown sugar and the finest ginger cake – wow! One hour on and the snose has lost some of those precise berries to a marzipan-type layer. To me this is a negative as I’m no fan of marzipan – to others, quite the reverse. The flavours deliver width, a plush texture, very fine acidity and an impressive density of sweet, slightly raisin-fruited flavour in the mid-palate. Approaching 30 years-old one might expect this to be described as an old grandmother of a wine – how very wrong that would be. It remains fresh, sensuous and complex. It is blisteringly good – thank-you Caves Baggli…
Rebuy – No Chance -but I would and without hesitation…

My next oldest bottles of this are some 1995 and a magnum of 1998 – it seems I have a long wait to harvest them!

Burgundy Report

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