Dark and brooding fruit on the nose – warming the glass brings a burst of dark spice. Full and wide in the mouth – plenty of structure too; the tannin has a hint of dryness, but that’s wood tannin and will fade the quickest.
Medium colour. This has limited aromatic width, but what depth! There’s a lot of Vosne about the nose; spice, ginger and warmer fruit at the base. In the mouth this has something in common with the nose – not really a grand cru impact, but absolutely a grand cru complexity, mid-palate dimension and finish – the acidity focusing and extending the length. This is seriously good and much more open than I had right to expect from a 2002. Lovely wine.
I guess it has been stored almost inverted as there is such a thick layer of brown mud (sediment) attached to the base of the cork. Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is understated but clean, a tight core of macerated and ripe fruit at its centre. This seems to have an almost grand cru level of fat, understated acidity and a rasp to the tannin – though not as astringent as yesterday’s Mazis. Like the nose, the flavours are clean but tight – this wine has some class, but is clearly going to make me wait if I want complexity. Even at the three hour stage the nose is a glossy but understated thing, perhaps a faint beefy depth begins to show. The palate develops a liqueur quality with a very faint suggestion of oxidation. Overall this drinks very well indeed.
This was altogether a different kettle of fish next to the 97 Pavelot Doiminode. I’ve had some lovely open and friendly bottles from this case, but this wasn’t one of them. It wasn’t unfriendly, rather it was uncommunicative. Clearly cut from the same vintage cloth as the Pavelot, but tighter in all aspects – no plateau of maturity here. A little more intense in the mid-palate, but as a pure object of pleasure, bettered by the Pavelot today.
This is a little more ethereal on the nose – not so much impact – the red fruits slowly take on more clarity. If I may not have guess Malconsorts on the nose, there is ample demonstration in the mouth-filling flavours; width, dimension and complexity. Again there’s a minerality that travels the full length of the considerable finish.