Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

1997 Cathiard Sylvain Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red. The nose is deep and dense with an edge of maturity, cocoa and undergrowth too – actually it reminds me of the 97 La Tâche – cool! – very Vosne. The cocoa/chocolate is apparent on the palate too, set against some fat and a lovely penetrating and slowly lingering central line of flavour. Of-course the acidity is on a relatively low level but, hence, provides no awkward shape to the wine. The tannin is velvetty and has just a trace of bitterness, but in a pleasing bitter chocolate style. The length is very impressive – maybe it was worth buying a full 12 after-all! The balance makes this quite precocious, so for drinking from now and over the next 10+ years.

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1998 Thomas-Moillard Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

A rather unnattractively muddy, if deep mahogany red colour. The nose is high-toned but the fruit seems a little cooked in profile, wide but unappealing in a stewed tea kind of way. The tannin rather sticks out and I suppose that this was one of those hideously astringent 98’s in it’s first couple of years, but the tannins have moderated – if only a little. The acidity is quite clean and good and eventually you find the one redeeming feature of the wine; nice fruit in the finish with a creamy edge and an understated length. Only two more lie in the cellar, fortunately, and I expect that in the normal Thomas-Moillard style they won’t be close to mature for at least another 10 years. I think they will always be rather uncouth and lacking style. Shame, as the starting material hints of much more potential. It’s very rare that I ‘waste’ wine, but this bottle was poured down the sink on day 2…

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2003 Clos Frantin Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus cherry-red colour. A deeply ripe red-fruit nose; it flirts with being porty but just-about avoids this tragedy – though I’m concerned that with time it might fall from the tightrope it currently walks. The palate is soft and concentrated with a burst of tannin in the mid-palate, the finish slowly fades. The concentration and extract are self-evident and are well-judged, but it’s hard to find the complexity given the density of its current demenour. Clean and well made, one more stays in the cellar to see how this develops – clearly a 2003.

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2005 Potel Nicolas Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Understated, edgy, coffee-tinged fruit on the nose – the nose never really expands in our time together. Roll this concentrated wine around in your mouth and you get sweet, dense fruit and many dimensions of flavour. The wine still seems to be opening out as you move from the mid-palate into the finish – a peacock’s tail.

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2002 Potel Nicolas Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Understated, edgy, coffee-tinged fruit on the nose – the nose never really expands in our time together. Roll this concentrated wine around in your mouth and you get sweet, dense fruit and many dimensions of flavour. The wine still seems to be opening out as you move from the mid-palate into the finish – a peacock’s tail.

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2004 Potel Nicolas Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

The nose is tighter and more sauvage than for the Petits Monts. vs the Clos Frantin Malconsorts this has much finer tannin – a more sophisticated edge – however it’s missing the fireworks and complexity of that Frantin wine. It does, however, have a wonderful finish. Overall, the mid-palate is showing much tighter than the other wines here. If it opens up it will be rather good.

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2004 Clos Frantin Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

Only 20 hectolitres per hectare in 2004. This wine’s nose also shows a super width with wonderfully precise notes of high-toned fruit though again today with limited depth. The palate is explosive – wonderful complexity and concentration – though the tannins have some grain about them – yet the overall effect is excellent. Super wine – the hard work really shows here.

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2001 Lamarche Francois Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on June 30, 2005 #asides

Medium cherry-red. Interesting nose, depth, sweetness and a dark but creamy edge – quite forward.Very good acidity and finely textured tannins. At best this is only medium density but shows way above average interest and length. Very tasty and enjoyed.

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2002 Thomas Charles Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on June 30, 2005 #asides

Medium cherry-red. The nose is wide and complex – really interesting. The palate is well balanced with astringent, chewy tannins and very nice length. There’s more density than the colour would suggest. Good and ineteresting. A very young Malconsorts that needs at least 6-7 years.

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