Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

1995 Cathiard Sylvain Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

Medium, medium-plus ruby-red colour – no obvious signs of age here. The creamy-fruit nose reminds me a lot of the Bachelet ‘99? Gevrey VV from last week; there’s just a little more depth and a ‘harder’ red berry core – it’s very nice indeed, though not the usual Malconsorts spice. In the mouth there is plenty of understated concentration and similarly understated tannins though those tannins seem to keep you under surveillance the whole time the wine is in your mouth. I’d suggest another year or two in the cellar. Cooly confident fruit that has more than one dimension and lingers well on smooth acidity. After 3 hours there’s a hint of spice aroma – but the bottle is almost gone…

1991 Bourée Pierre Fils Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

The cork is black were it meets the air, and stained red all the way through – perhaps 2cm of ullage – but the wine is fine. Medium-pale though it’s a relatively young colour. The nose is soft and faintly spicy with hints of strawberry and stems but it’s also rather clean and interesting, occasionally it’s beguiling. In the mouth it’s soft and supple with a little kick in the mid-palate and perfect acidity. The almost-gone tannin is but a transparent screen. Very long, but it’s on a very subtle level – and despite the evident complexity, that’s the problem – everything about this wine is on too subtle a level, it’s like it’s diluted. Yields? Beautiful if you have the patience and lack of distractions but, if I may say, too ephemeral! For all that, every last drop was drunk in about 2 hours, I just wish I’d savoured it a little more, rather than thought ‘if only…’

2001 Bourée Pierre Fils Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose, whilst still reasonably primary, sets high expectations; heavy with red fruit concentrate against higher tones of stems and, if you don’t swirl, an understated pot-pourri of herbs. In the mouth there is some fat, then acidity that finishes just a little tart – like under-ripe – before a very nice extra dimension of creamy fruit. The understated finish, whilst long, seems to pick-up a slightly metallic note from that acidity. I’ve never been acid averse, so despite this being less than perfect, there’s enough character here for me to buy a couple more (it’s anyway a good price) for later reflection.

2005 Thomas Charles Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. A nose that remains compact over the three hours the wine lasts; complex, creamy fruit with a nice acidic redcurrant lift. Like a many, many 05’s it’s now acid-forward in stance, though the tannin remains completely submerged. The fruit is completely primary and in the redcurrant, raspberry area rather than cherry or darker fruit. Clean and understatedly long. I already see some transition from the older vintages.

2002 Thomas Charles Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose had a little bottle-stink, but that was gone in a couple of minutes. There’s a little of that beefy aroma that I disliked on day 1 of the 2001, but it’s better balanced with sweet, spicy red fruit, eventually nice creamy-edged redcurrant for the last drops in the glass. It’s a little tight and acid-forward, though the impression is of a wine that expands into an intense mid-palate. The tannin comes quite late to the scene and has a little rasp – though it’s understated. Tight and young but a bottle that looks like it has a decent future. Worth buying a couple.

2001 Thomas Charles Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

The replacement for my last TCA infected bottle. Medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose is deep, slightly savoury, eventually full of beef stock though spicily wide – I have to say it’s far from pretty. In the mouth it’s much better; nicely fresh, intense, wide and flavourful – it’s really very good. There’s decently fine tannin and a nice flavour in the finish. The frankly off-putting nose eventually becomes more acceptable as the beef fades, adding focus with a nice red berry note – takes 2 hours. Day 2, top to bottom it’s a super wine, but most people don’t get to day 2, hence, I can’t be overly positive.

2007 Clos Frantin Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Drunk directly after the Clos de Bèze, this was still a wow! High-toned aromas over a tighter base of very pretty fruit and faint spice – slowly it opens more. Gorgeous sweet fruit, a little tannin ‘grab’ before building in the mid-palate then slowly fading – super.

2006 Clos Frantin Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Darker colour than the villages wine. Wide, high-toned and complex, but some estery dimension. Soft and ripe, filled with well-grained tannin, an extra dimension of flavour and a super finish. I find this very good

2006 Potel Nicolas Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

The nose is a little fatter than the Damodes; some spice but overall remains quite reserved. Wide impression over the tongue, very well packaged tannin and reasonable length – but overall a little too tight so say great or not…

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