2004

2004 Romanée-Conti Romanée Saint-Vivant

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Yield 28.3 hl/ha – or 1,229 cases. Medium colour. The nose starts more generous and savoury that the last wines but then closes up. Some notes of cedar and berries are slowly released as the nose widens again, becoming smoky and filling the glass again with creamy, spicy and more fruit driven notes. The palate is more masculine and tannic but shows sweet fruit and a more concentrated length. It’s less elegant for sure but has more power and will surely gain balance with time. This is a much bigger step up from the Grands-Echézeaux than at the barrel tasting.

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2004 Vougeraie Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

No reduction, sweet fruit with a cedar edge on the nose. This is a real mouthful of wine with very good acidity and plenty of concentration. The finish lingers really well. Despite the cedar on the nose this is rather good.

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2004 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. The nose hovers close to fantastic – beautiful red berry fruit edged with cream – but from time to time there’s a rather powder and indistinct edge, the wine could never quite make up its mind. The palate is nicely textured with good intensity and acidity. The tannins are well covered with sweet fruit and a lovely creamy edge to the finish too. There was no sign of green in this wine, but one-third of the bottle lay in the fridge overnight; the nose is now earthy with a strong cedar streak – no red fruit and ‘no love’!

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2004 Romanée-Conti Richebourg

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Yield 27.25 hl/ha – or 953 cases. Slightly deeper colour. Violets and smoke on the sweet nose – the stems are more forward than with the previous wines. Lovely red fruit notes waft from the almost drained glass. Again a different approach – the wine starts narrow but widens and widens on the palate. There tannins are evident but well covered by fruit. The length is very sneaky indeed. There is similar concentration but better balance compared to the Saint-Vivant. Despite not fileding the usual Richebourg ‘punch’, this is a super package.

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2004 Vougeraie Vougeot Clos de la Prieuré Rouge

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

The nose interesting with a forward impression and quite floral and elegant though edged in a cedar frame. Good concentration and very fresh. This is a nice and easy wine with a good finish.

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2004 Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red colour – right to the rim. The nose starts dense, very tight and quite deep. Time reduces the depth and gives this a wider and redder complexion, though more patience – about 2 hours from opening – and it’s has a coffee aspect coming through and certainly a finer aspect. The palate is also rather dense, quite fat and very well textured, it’s also very, very long, but that length is heavily oak-driven, slightly bitter and not so nice. Two hours in the glass does nothing to improve the finish, nor impart some complexity. My summary (so far) is drunk too young and currently showing too much oak on the finish.

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2004 Romanée-Conti La Tâche

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Yield 26.35 hl/ha – or 1,432 cases. I spent 40 minutes with this wine and despite how impressive it was – I didn’t seem to find too much to write! The nose starts slightly understated – hints of cedar and plenty of spicy interest. Slowly it becomes smoother and wider with faint caramel and coffee, eventually showcasing nice precise red fruits. Here is yet another character – more forward and ebullient. Super length with plenty of attack.

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2004 Comte Armand Auxey-Duresses

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium yellow – perhaps already with a glint of gold. The nose started rather exotic and ripe but quickly settled to a core of brioche and sweet pastry with a faint pineapple rim. Almost lush in texture this gives the impression of being from a much riper year than 2004. Reaching the mid-palate the texture is a little less smooth and rolls into a medium finish. Nice, but probably just a little heavy in the mid-palate for a rebuy chez Nanson.

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2004 Vougeraie Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Marconnets

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

The nose is rather understated – just a twist of oak toast and again a hint of reduction. Just a little less ripe than the 05 version but well balanced with fresh acidity and nice finish.

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