2004

2004 Vougeraie Nuits St.Georges Les Damodes

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

A deep red nose with more than a touch of spice to the sweet fruit. Given time the nose adds coffee and a faint cedar edge. Plenty of concentration on the palate and it’s matched by quite some volume of fine-grained tannin – little astringency. Super length. This is a demmanding wine, but a very good one.

2004 Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Yield 26.55 hl/ha – or 471 cases. Medium-pale colour. The nose is wide and deep, translucent rather than dense with quite pleasant stem notes. Bottle two seems to be have more depth and show a more floral, violet aspect. It’s hard to point out specific attributes as there is that Romanée-Conti ‘whole-ness’ that provides such a measure of balance. Understated and precise, there is so much harmony and sophistication here. Certainly a wine for reflection rather than to impress.

2004 Drouhin Joseph Puligny-Montrachet

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

The nose is both wide and deep; neither fat nor high-toned it delivers subtle blossom and cream. Very well textured in the mouth, giving the impression that real muscle could be under the jacket, but the jacket stayed on in our short time together. There is good minerality and super acidity that pushes long into the good finish. Perhaps it’s just a little tight as there was little I could put my finger on – I summarised by writing ‘very efficient and understated Puilgny’.

2004 Chartron Jean Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Pucelle

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium lemon-yellow. The wide, high-toned nose shows a little citrus interest and some faint oak artifacts – it’s quite interesting, but could do with a little more density. The palate is delicate rather than dense – I feel there is something missing – perhaps the yields were a little high(?) The good acidity brings you quickly into the mid-palate, and initially a rather coarse showing due to the oak treatment. An hour from opening and the wine is much more comfortable in it’s own skin and quite Puligny; clean but missing 1er cru intensity. Good but not great.

2004 Vougeraie Vougeot Clos de la Prieuré Blanc

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

It’s a fresher and for my taste much more interesting nose. Nicely textured and again quite plump, though just a little sleeker than the 2005. There’s a nice burst of concentration on the mid-palate and a good finish. I’d still like a twist more of acidity, but this is anyway very nice.

2004 Clair Francoise et Denis St.Aubin Murgers des Dents de Chien

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium yellow. The nose fresh, just a little savoury and spicy against that citrussy 2004 feel. Medium-intensity with very good acidity and a nice flow into the good finish. Again there’s a slightly savoury element to the palate too. Plenty of flesh here, rather than the taught, haughty aspect of many in 2004. Easy and tasty drinking – very good value at it’s pre-arrival price.

2004 Bachelet Denis Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. An understated and tight nose slowly becomes creamy with glossy fruit. The cream of the nose is paralleled on the palate with impressive density to the precise creamy fruit that has a licorice edge. Mouth-watering acidity and understated smooth tannins that just cling a little to your gums. There is just a faint edge of bitterness in the finish which I can’t quite decide whether it comes from the grape or oak tannin, but it’s a good length. Very young – certainly a 2004 – but a very nice package.

2004 Gambal Alex St.Aubin Murgers des Dents de Chien

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Pale lemon-yellow. A smooth nose of brioche and mineral notes and some quite bready depth – very appealing. This really stands apart on the palate, very good acidity coupled to nice minerality, yet there is good mid-palate impact. The finish is just a little oak driven at the moment, but this wine has drive and personality. Everyone enjoyed this very much.

2004 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. From cellar temp (15°C) the nose shows several layers; high-toned jellied black fruit at the top, earthier, leathery notes in the middle and lower-down. Leave the glass for a while and it fills with cream and a faint smoke edge – mmm. The palate is quite a departure from the norm in 2004 – lots of faintly grained tannin – but there’s quite enough intensity of black-shaded fruit to match. The acidity takes a little-bit of backseat to the fruit and tannin, just slowly making your mouth water. I might wish for a little more expansion in the mid-palate, but the finish is long with hints of mocha and a bitter young-oak edge. Not the easiest of wines to drink, but no green notes here. This very young wine needs at least three 3 years before revisiting – but it will be worth it – it has the potential to be excellent.

Burgundy Report

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