2003

2003 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

At first glance and sniff, this looks and smells like a 2003 – blind tasting to that level of accuracy need hold no fears! Medium-plus cherry-red with not a hint of lightening or ruby colour. The nose starts very ripe with plenty of powdery red fruit, but time opens quite a distinct coffee note and eventually a very well defined and intense red cherry/cranberry impression. In the mouth this is concentrated, soft, intense with a good burst of fruit on the mid-palate – it’s a very ‘worthy’ 1er Cru – the finish is quite long and the only part that hints of some oak. The tannins are very well covered. This is a great success for the vintage, and even if you are just a little agnostic about the character of 2003, I think you will find plenty of fun here – and that’s not to say there is no longer-term serious side to this well-priced wine.

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2003 Cornu Corton

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. A soft and dusty fruit nose, red fruit, some cream and relatively modest toasty/spicy oak – eventually coffee/mocha overtones. On the palate the ripe fruit is a little oak-marked, and that oak is slightly bitter and for a while dominates the quite long finish. Slowly some creamy fruit comes through, eventually aeration provides a nice balance.

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2003 Guyon Echézeaux

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus cherry-red colour. The wide nose showcases well delineated soft red fruit and a little coffee too. High-toned fruit in the mouth that is both concentrated and bursts into life on the mid-palate. There is some astringency to the tannin but the combined sweetness of the fruit and the considerable spicy oak means that it’s not overpowering in the finish which also shows plenty of cream and just a touch of espresso. In quality terms this wine is quite close to the previous wine, just a little shorter and less precise – mainly due to the layer of sweet oak which I don’t find ‘additive’.

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2003 Brocard Jean-Marc Chablis Bougros

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium yellow. The cooler the wine, the more mineral the aspect, but at the correct temperature, aromatically this is a more about honey than rocks, with just a faint savoury edge. The palate is soft and supple – ripe obviously – good texture and a medium-plus length. The vintage is doing the talking here, so this is not a great Bougros, but it is a great value wine enjoyed in a restaurant.

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2003 Vougeraie Vougeot Clos de la Prieuré Rouge

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

The nose is deeper, a little reduced, sweet but not too sweet. Quite some density on the palate, low acidity and no sharp edges. An easy wine to drink.

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2003 Vougeraie Vougeot Clos de la Prieuré Blanc

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

The nose is much more understated than the 2005 – less obviously ‘ripe’ too. There’s the same opulent and quite rich palate – almost oily – the flavours really cling to your palate. This is surprisingly long. The plump family resemblance is in place, but this is quite well balanced for a 2003. Almost good in the context of the vintage

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2003 Drouhin Joseph Beaune Clos des Mouches

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

It’s a wide, slightly dense nose that slowly develops baked red fruit notes. The palate is also a little dense, showing plenty of grainy tannin – though it’s not so astringent. The fruit has a slightly roast impression, but for all that is really quite interesting. Overall this comes across a little rustic and lacking finesse. Fans of 2003 will enjoy it for sure, but it’s not my ‘bag’.

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2003 Clos Frantin Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus cherry-red colour. A deeply ripe red-fruit nose; it flirts with being porty but just-about avoids this tragedy – though I’m concerned that with time it might fall from the tightrope it currently walks. The palate is soft and concentrated with a burst of tannin in the mid-palate, the finish slowly fades. The concentration and extract are self-evident and are well-judged, but it’s hard to find the complexity given the density of its current demenour. Clean and well made, one more stays in the cellar to see how this develops – clearly a 2003.

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2003 En Truffière (Vincent Girardin) Corton-Charlemagne

By on November 30, 2006 #asides

An oversize and overweight ’statement bottle’ with a super-deep punt. Medium yellow. The nose shouts ‘pear-drops’ before becoming a more subtle blend with classic white blossom and higher-toned alcoholic notes. The palate is quite well concentrated and reasonably long, it just needs an extra dab of acidity to carry the ample mid-palate through into the finish. Almost good.

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