2003

2003 Rion Michele & Patrice Nuits St.Georges Clos Des Argillières

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

Deep coloured. The explosive nose is full of deep sweet oak, certainly quite OTT at this young age. The palate is deep & sweet, mixing easily with completely covered fine tannins, lots of sweet oak on the sweet fruit is hard to take. Medium-plus, very sweet length. I have another bottle to prove me wrong in the future, but today there is nothing here that I look for in Burgundy – my wife loved it!

2003 Chézeaux Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

(Ponsot elevage) The nose takes a little coaxing but gets wider and wider with quite lovely fruit. The tannin is much finer vs their Clos St.Denis with similar depth to the wonderfuly precise fruit. Long too, this is fantasic wine.

2003 Rion Daniel Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

Deep coloured. A tight nose of high-tones of violets and a meaty depth, nice fruit at its base, eventually a mocha note develops too. This is quite an interesting wine that has some freshness and linear, primary concentrated fruit – spicy tannins are certainly to the fore, and with a little astringency and perhaps missing a little ripeness, but to drink today I would rate this way higher M&P Rion’s NSG Argillières below – they key is freshness.

2003 Chézeaux Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

(Leclerc elevage) The nose is even wider than the Ponsot bottling though the ripe, red fruit is a little blurred in comparison. Sweeter palate with tannins that are not quite so fine, though the fruit does seem to have an edge more concentration. There’s real impact in the mid-palate and a great finish too, though a little astringent tannin appears too. More impact, less refinement – depends how you like your Griotte!

2003 Romanée-Conti Richebourg

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

The only wine today that reluctantly welcomes your nose – quite closed, only slowly, slowly evolving a deep, coffee edged, savoury plum aspect. Given time this perspective becomes broader and more spice inflected but never quite matching the openness of the other wines. Again this is a wine where the palate is dominated by its weight of extract, bettering the RSV and equalling the GE for length. The tannins are just a little less astringent than those from the RSV. I find the wine incredibly impressive, yet somehow not as compulsive as the GE.

2003 Chézeaux Clos St.Denis Vieilles Vignes

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

High-toned, a nose of more depth than width, but given time it widens too. The entry starts a little disappointingly until you reach the mid-palate where the fruit really rolls up it sleeves – it’s super intense and tasty. The tannins are just a little grainy but there’s very fine length.

2003 Chézeaux Chambertin

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

The bottle is cold, but the nose starts surprisingly open, a hint of reduction perhaps, but this is transient. Becomes even wider, good depth too – beautiful fruit – sweet and fine. The texture is first-rate, super-smooth tannins dovetail into gorgeously creamy fruit. If there was just a hint more acidity you could guess this to be a 2002 (or maybe 2005 in another year or two). The tannin just shows a little after you swallow. Another gorgeous wine.

2003 Romanée-Conti Romanée Saint-Vivant

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

The nose is instantly brighter, redder and more ’round’. Softer and perhaps less precise but with an intense and persistent weight of fruit at its centre. The palate is full-wrapped velvet, though despite the fineness of these ripe tannins I’m a little concerned by their abundance. This wine is quite different to the GE, with even more extract that leads to a drying impression into the finish – full-on, rather than graceful and the flavours don’t quite etch into the palate like those of the GE. Looking to the long-term, there is a cool and concentrated quality to the fruit and the tannin will anyway lessen with time, and the glass was also emptied rather easily!

2003 Bouchard Aine Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Peuillets

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

From 40 year-old vines raised in 30% new oak. The nose is rather ashy. Lots of material here, a wine that slowly expands into the finish. The fruit is pretty good but I find the tannins currently rather ungainly, to a certain extent, spoiling the fruit in the mid-palate. Everything seems ripe, so given 3-5 years for the tannins to soften and it might be almost good.

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