2003

2003 Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Combe aux Moines

By on November 30, 2009 #asides

I double decanted the bottle then left it in the refrigerator for 1 hour as my room temp was about 28°. Medium, medium-plus colour though still cherry-red. The nose still manages to open up with a dark, reductive, slightly toasty oak impression – but it stays in the glass for less than 5 minutes. Slowly it builds a width of creamy, macerating morello cherry aromas, ever-so slowly adding depth with time – very faint herbs overlay the fruit and eventually a little toffee. In the mouth the first word that comes to my mind is unctuous as the sweet fruit wraps around your tongue, though the fruit’s smiling face turns to a frown as the tannin begins to assert itself – it’s like fine sand in texture but far from astringent. The acidity is on a relatively low level so it both dulls the mid-palate (no extra dimension) and adds little to the slightly earthy, salty finish. Unctuous, but I can’t say succulent – there’s just not the freshness for that – I honestly found the second glass a chore. For all that, it’s rather a concentrated and serene wine and about the best 03 I’ve tried recently from the 1er/grand cru levels, I’m also convinced that the pretty fruit will further improve, but I’m not convinced it will ever (for my taste) overcome the shortcoming of the acidity…

2003 Colin Marc St.Aubin En Remilly

By on November 30, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus golden colour. The nose is slightly tropical, and certainly ripe. In the mouth there is a roundness of shape and okay acidity – the mid-palate flavour has a good extra dimension that goes long in the finish. Just missing a little energy, but smuch better than I expected!

2003 Lachaux Pascal Latricières-Chambertin

By on November 30, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus colour. Brooding aromas of dark cherry and cassis that are framed with warm, sweet coffee. Mouth-filling, slightly acid-shy but good texture and fantastic length. There’s a slight bitterness that mingles with the creamy fruit in the mid-palate, tannin is fine with the merest leading-edge of astringency. Really, this a bottle to wallow in rather than intellectualise over, yet the IQ is there if you want to challenge it. Very impressive indeed.

2003 Mortet Denis Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.Jacques

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

(Magnum) Medium-plus colour to the same depth as the 2005, though with a more yellowing rim. Dark, muscular aromas are augmented with spice and licorice – becomes quite comforting and enveloping – riper but very similar to the 2005. Riper in the mouth too, but balanced. The dark fruit is still in the ascendent, but I see some red here too, also, for the first time, we have some obvious tannin structure, but the grain is fine. It is a big and quite mineral mouthful with dark, spicy and slightly saline quality of many in this series.

2003 Lachaux Pascal Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.Jacques

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus colour, still with a cherry-red hint. The nose has a slightly savoury, spicy width and deep, dark-skinned cherry fruit, seems reasonably fresh for the vintage. In the mouth, this is quite full and shows a very good dark-fruit dimension in the mid-palate, though the acidity is only apparent by the slowly mouth-watering, cream-edged finish. Very smooth tannin underlines the quality of the wine-making, the main nod to the vintage being an edge of warmth to the finish. Today it just begs a little spark of energy to make it more characterful – and indeed to inveigle me into pouring another glass – that may simply the how many 03’s now show themselves, I’m afraid that I don’t open enough to know. Anyway, given that it’s a beautifully crafted wine of significant dimension, I can’t ‘not recommend’ it just because I’m not a great fan of the vintage! I re-visited the wine on day two – the nose is finer and shows more clarity, whilst the palate is just a little more supple and less ‘monolithic’ – certainly more interesting, I drank 2 glasses!

2003 Grivot Jean Vosne-Romanée

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Frankly, I’ve little experience of recent Grivots, so this will be interesting: Deep colour. Dense but not at all clunky red fruit – a little tight but nothing ungainly – slowly building some higher tones, rounding out to be quite lithe and not a bit jammy – a good 2003 nose. Mouth-filling though also a little mouth-puckering from the tannin, yet the acidity is not bad. Just a little mouth-watering which combined with the tannin that clings to your gums makes this quite long – incredibly young though. Not a bit of roasted fruit and showing enough energy on the palate. Clearly this needs lots of cellar time but it’s a very successful wine for the vintage – well done Etienne!

2003 Jadot Louis Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

A few hints of oxidation on the nose, but it’s largely fresh and interesting. In your mouth this wine is all over the place and despite evident complexity and some additional dimension – not just oxidation! – in the mid-palate it’s frankly a mess. Poorly judged acidification or just an impossible vintage? I don’t know but it seemed to have plenty of acidity.

2003 Girardin Vincent Corton-Charlemagne

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Deeper yellow. The nose is dense and more obviously displays ripe fruit. In the mouth it’s well textured, even slightly oily, and suddenly widens to great effect in the mid-palate. A perfect wine for sipping alone – it just needs a little extra acidity to lift it to the next level – but finishes well.

2003 Lambrays Clos des Lambrays

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

A high-toned and nicely fresh nose of red berries over something initailly a little musty – the must slowly evolves to creamy soil notes. The palate is very ripe but the fruit retains some freshness and avoids being ‘roast’. The flavour is good and shows no obvious jarr from the tannin. This is very supple but not as long as many here.

Burgundy Report

Translate »

You are using an outdated browser. Please update your browser to view this website correctly: https://browsehappy.com/;