Christophe likes this vintage. The aromas are ripe though not obviously 2003, that said the aromas are dense and less focused than the wines that went before, though still red-fruited. Plenty of grainy tannin, though they it’s not particularly astringent. An interesting and quite pronounced licorice flavour as you head into the mid-palate. This has quite a decent balance overall.
2003
2003 Grivot Jean Vosne-Romanée
Frankly, I’ve little experience of recent Grivots, so this will be interesting: Deep colour. Dense but not at all clunky red fruit – a little tight but nothing ungainly – slowly building some higher tones, rounding out to be quite lithe and not a bit jammy – a good 2003 nose. Mouth-filling though also a little mouth-puckering from the tannin, yet the acidity is not bad. Just a little mouth-watering which combined with the tannin that clings to your gums makes this quite long – incredibly young though. Not a bit of roasted fruit and showing enough energy on the palate. Clearly this needs lots of cellar time but it’s a very successful wine for the vintage – well done Etienne!
2003 Jadot Louis Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières
A few hints of oxidation on the nose, but it’s largely fresh and interesting. In your mouth this wine is all over the place and despite evident complexity and some additional dimension – not just oxidation! – in the mid-palate it’s frankly a mess. Poorly judged acidification or just an impossible vintage? I don’t know but it seemed to have plenty of acidity.
2003 Girardin Vincent Corton-Charlemagne
Deeper yellow. The nose is dense and more obviously displays ripe fruit. In the mouth it’s well textured, even slightly oily, and suddenly widens to great effect in the mid-palate. A perfect wine for sipping alone – it just needs a little extra acidity to lift it to the next level – but finishes well.
2003 Bichot Albert Pommard Les Arvelets
2003 Bichot Albert Beaune 1er Cru
2003 Lignier-Michelot Morey St.Denis Vieilles Vignes
Medium-plus colour. The nose is forward, maybe a hint porty and certainly very ripe but generally the fruit talks of pinot. Ripe, plenty of concentration and very well mannered tannin. The understated acidity provides good balance and just enough freshness. It’s riper than I prefer, but if the nose talks of pinot then fruit on the palate clearly says burgundy. A good effort.
2003 Parent Pommard Epenots
2003 Berthaut Fixin Les Clos
A little paler. Ripe, baked fruit with some pot-pourri spice background. A sweet palate that avoids being cloying – plenty of red confiture. Soft, with good apparent concentration. Not quite so decadent as the 2003 ‘Crais’ but still with a twist of hedonism! I’d say that this would still benefit from 1-3 years more in the cellar.