2003

2003 Leroy Latricières-Chambertin

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Deep colour. The nose shows more than a passing resemblance to the Combottes but is more tightly wound – it does take on a more musky and heavy impression with time but never opens out to the level of that wine. Über-concentration, achingly intense in the mid-palate and super-long. Behind is (almost) hidden tannin with just an edge of grain. This is Combottes’ bigger brother, seems less mineral and focused but then that could the masking effect of the extra concentration. Leave the glass still for a while and it fills with toasty oak aromas. Very expensive, but very impressive too.

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2003 Château de Monthelie Monthelie Sur la Velle

By on July 31, 2006 #asides

Medium-plus colour. A mix of deep and ripe cherry and raspberry, faintly edged with coffee. Sweet, dense, long-lasting flavours with just a little dryness from the tannin. Very-much 2003, but a very friendly and accessible wine.

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2003 Rion Daniel Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Deep coloured. A tight nose of high-tones of violets and a meaty depth, nice fruit at its base, eventually a mocha note develops too. This is quite an interesting wine that has some freshness and linear, primary concentrated fruit – spicy tannins are certainly to the fore, and with a little astringency and perhaps missing a little ripeness, but to drink today I would rate this way higher M&P Rion’s NSG Argillières below – they key is freshness.

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2003 Rion Patrice Nuits St.Georges Clos Des Argillières

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Deep coloured. The explosive nose is full of deep sweet oak, certainly quite OTT at this young age. The palate is deep & sweet, mixing easily with completely covered fine tannins, lots of sweet oak on the sweet fruit is hard to take. Medium-plus, very sweet length. I have another bottle to prove me wrong in the future, but today there is nothing here that I look for in Burgundy – my wife loved it!

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2003 Sigaut Hervé Chambolle-Musigny Les Chatelots

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Deep colour with a purple rim. The nose starts heavy and a little soapy (or maybe that’s the glass?), it takes about 15 minute to become an interesting mix of very ripe black skinned fruits and deep cherry. The palate is reasonably well balanced and shows almost good texture. Again the dominant aspect is the ripeness of the fruit. Perhaps just a kick of complexity at the end, medium-plus length. Relatively simple, but hard not to like, a nice wine.

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2003 Thomas Charles Nuits St.Georges Clos du Thorey

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Medium-plus cherry-red. A wide and bright fruity nose supported by an earthy undercurrent. The palate is bold and concentrated with plenty of tannin that ends with a twist of bitterness. Good mid-palate density, and the fruit is not so bad. Almost good – particularly if you have the patience to leave this in the cellar for the next 5+ years.

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2003 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Deep colour. The starts with a blast of camphor/menthol, slowly turns to cedar and opens out with high-toned red berry fruit and just a hint of volatility – eventually widens – becomes super. The first mouthful leaves little impression, save for a lovely penetrating length and a certain smoothness. Linear fruit, slightly grainy tannin and acidity that is just a trace tart. If the palate develops as well as the nose, this is on the buy list.

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2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Chablis Vaillons

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Medium lemon-yellow. The nose is sweet, shows a little exotic fruit and honey. Slightly fat, good concentration and apparently good acidity given the mouthwatering finish, but falls short of racy. Rather lumpy and borderline harsh on first opening – never really improved over two hours – so only ‘okay’.

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2003 Grossot Corinne et Jean-Pierre Chablis Les Forneaux

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Medium lemon yellow colour. Relatively fresh, some width, delicate and interesting. Density, indeed slightly unruly density – also not quite the freshness that I crave. But there’s dimension and power in spades, and the wine is obviously far too young. Needs 3 or 4 years in the cellar, but there’s more material than in many a grand cru and the finish lingers with a creamy edge. If there was just that edge more of acidity I’d be filling my cellar!

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