1997

1997 Potel Nicolas Clos de la Roche

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

A medium-plus ruby-red, right up to the rim. The nose shows plenty of red cherry covering a deeper base of solid fruit and just a trace of secondary scents. Super intensity as you draw air through the wine, the fruit just shaded towards red. The tannins are in the background and there’s a lovely texture to the wine. Very long, but the finish is initially spoiled by an awkward showing to the acidity – but I think this must have been the cheese I was tasting (Sbrinz) as one espresso later, everything was fine. A very good and relatively young wine which improve over several years.

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1997 Hospices de Beaune Beaune Cuvée Dames Hospitalières

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

(Bouchard Père) Deep ruby colour with no obvious aging. Lovely rich nose of high toned black cherry underpinned by a trace of oak, develops a little blood-orange and coffee with time. Lovely mouthfeel with silky drying tannins and excellent acidity. There’s good concentration of black cherry which lingers in a very satisfying way. This is a wine that you can drink much faster than you should. Perfectly balanced to age but very satisfying today – very impressive.

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1997 Faiveley Joseph Montagny Les Joncs

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Pale golden colour. The nose shows a little spent fireworks and candied fruit, more time in the glass increases the fireworks note. In the mouth there is quite nice volume and a lemony acidity which lengthens the finish. Nothing really exciting but clean and tasty – a nice wine.

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1997 Castagnier Guy Clos de la Roche

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Medium ruby but already looking mature with brick at the rim. This is a wine that both inspires and disappoints, a gorgeous nose and finish but the palate is a little rough. First the nose, ripe and deeply scented with cooked plums trailing off to dried currants. In the mouth the wine is quite smooth with intense fruit and grainy tannins, the problem is the acidity which is badly integrated and sharp or spiky. I’m assuming that this needed acidifying and the result lacks balance. Despite this, the finish is a very good one with the same dried currants from the nose lingering very well. Given the tannins, I’d still look to leave this for another couple of years and hopefully the acidity might be more balanced.

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1997 Jadot Louis Beaune Les Grèves

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Wasn’t able to replace the Clos des Ursules in time – so here’s the stand-in. Not normally quite as good as the ‘Clos’, but let’s see. Deep ruby colour – looks pretty young. The nose starts quite closed, but there’s plenty of high toned cherry fruit in the mouth – excellent acidity too. The tannins are very smooth and drying. The finish is medium-plus length. With time a lightly cooked nose of strawberry, plum and cherry develops and the fruit profile seems to become more red – redcurrant and raspberry. Perfectly balanced to leave as long as you wish. Very good.

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1997 Belland Jean-Claude Chambertin

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Medium-plus ruby core moving through brown to amber at the rim – this could be 20 years old from the colour. On opening you’re met with a pronounced medium toasty-oak nose which gradually subsides to the background becoming more like plum and coffee. The nose constantly evolved – from the colour I was expecting a cooked fruit profile, but gradually primary red an black cherry is unlocked from the mix – even redcurrants too after a time. The palate has very silky tannins with long acidity. This feels really sumptuous in the mouth and shows perhaps a little more cooked fruit than the nose with a deep plum pie. If there is one area of disappointment it is in the medium plus finish – given the nose and silky palate I’d expected an extra length – but it wasn’t there. Still a lovely wine and this producer’s version is usually cheaper than many a Charmes’.

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1997 Jadot Louis Beaune Clos des Ursules

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Lovely ‘intermediate’ colour – a deep cherry red centre turning first ruby then brown as you reach the edge of the glass. The nose starts with a surprisingly earthy note, backed by oak – though not the high toast found on many ’97’s from Jadot. The palate shows intense fruit against an oaky base, but is a little rough – you could pick this as Corton – then the reason – CORK! That’s two in a row – what a shame, this also seems excellent.

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1997 Grivot Jean Clos de Vougeot

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Medium-plus ruby with a brick rim. Slightly subdued nose which is sweet and primary with high toned red berry fruit, perhaps some blueberry too. Excellent red and black cherry fruit extract on the faintly oaky palate. The dry tannins are still evident – though not rough. This is currently a little austere, but a wine with a very sneaky, creamy length. Despite the lovely fruit, this wine is certainly less dense than the previous two, very fine though – I’d say this is nowhere near ready and would suggest waiting another 3-4 years before trying again.

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1997 Drouhin Joseph Griotte-Chambertin

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Medium-plus ruby at the core still showing some cherry red. The nose is a little subdued with bright red berries and rose petals. Lovely fat with pure, concentrated redcurrant and cherry. Good acidity and tannins that you need to search for. Some vanilla on the long finish. A lovely bottle which showed in a subdued way – perhaps in it’s shell? Even if not, there’s more than enough material to safely leave this for a few more years.

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