Medium cherry red, just starting to take on a more ruby colour. The nose is of bright red fruits – just a little primary and one-dimensional. The palate is fresh and clean with a quite lovely understated concentration coupled with discrete tannins. Just a little creamy edge to the finish. Showing in a young way and not a typical 1997 style. Very nice.
One of the rare white Corton’s i.e. one made on soil normally producing red wines. Still it’s the land that is classed as Grand Cru so this also carries that tag despite not being from the ‘Charlemagne’ area. The first bottle was quite interesting in a thin, mineral sort of way but betrayed a little taint and was absolutely not of Grand Cru quality. So bottle number two is golden in colour. The nose is deep and totally different to bottle number one, perhaps just the merest trace of oxidation – perhaps not it’s very faint – maybe it’s just the mix of nuts and faint cheese (better than it sounds) that seems to be there. The palate is very fat, perhaps needs just a lift more of acidity, but there’s interesting high toned fruit and is long too – though just a little bitterness and yes now I think there is some oxidation. Given the slight nutty oxidative note I’d say this wine is not for keeping. A very interesting wine, and in terms of density it’s worthy of Grand Cru status – but it’s a world away from the following wine.
Compared to Bruno’s Marsannay the colour seems okay, a pale gold colour. The nose has lots of depth, a little more oak than is necessary, but the fruit has a creamy edge. With time the oak fades and the pineapple fruit comes more to the fore, a little caramel too. The fruit is concentrated, even intense. Good length, even a coconut element which makes for added interest. A very good wine then, though not quite to the level of Bonneau du Martray’s. Will obviously continue to improve.
Paler gold. Nose starts very closed, gradually a lemony note comes through just hinting at something deeper, the lemon becomes more lime with time. No fireworks on the nose but there’s a blast on the palate, perfect acidity and a true multidimensional palate. Very long too. I’d say this is both excellent and very young. I just might look to top the cellar up with a few more of these!
Medium ruby red shading to amber. Again the nose is a little muted, same high tones but a more roasted aspect to the fruit. Fat with almost good acidity and still a little tannin. The rôti note is more obvious still on the palate. The finish is deep and admirably long but my preference would be for the previous wines.
Medium-plus ruby red, still with a shade of cherry – not much fading. The nose shows sweet raspberry and red cherry pie – complex and enticing. The palate shows fresh acidity, like biting into fresh fruit – if only the tannins and finish were a match. Despite good length, they start a little bitter and astringent. Certainly improves (up to a point) with aeration and food and is quite drinkable – lovely fruit. Interesting – even nice – but not a ‘re-buy’.
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