1997

1997 Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Medium ruby with just a little amber. The nose is relatively young showing with slightly baked fruit – not much complexity, though given time you do find a pure red cherry note pushing through. The palate is rich and dense with primary fruit, plenty of velvetty tannin and almost good acidity. No fireworks on the finish but there’s a subtle length. Good, but at this stage quite primary and not showing good value – we’ll see!

1997 Méo-Camuzet Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Clos St. Philibert

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Pale gold. The nose again starts differently – two tasters disliking – but soon settles down to our familiar and characteristic profile. The palate is perhaps a little sweeter than 1998, still with good acidity and a nice punch to the fruit in the mid-palate.

1997 Château Chorey-les-Beaune - Germain Bourgogne Rouge

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Medium-plus ruby red colour. The nose shows not so much in the way of fruit and an unattractive yeasty note. In contrast the palate is fat with very sweet fruit and mouth watering acidity and fading tannins. For my taste this is a little too much like fruit-juice, but in context a seven year-old wine for only €12 so more than decent value.

1997 MacMahon Auxey-Duresses

By on June 30, 2004 #asides

Golden. The nose is a mix of slightly alcoholic high tones plus a little green-skinned fruit against a pungent base of honey. Starts a little out of sorts and slightly bitter, but comes round quickly to reveal a good, fat palate of mature, primary fruit and almost good acidity. The finish is of reasonable length. Quite a good wine that is unlikely to get better so I’ll be drinking and enjoying mine over the summer.

1997 Drouhin Joseph Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Two bottles in two months – only one left now. Medium-plus ruby at the core still showing some cherry red at the rim. The nose is understated with red berry fruit and floral elements. Similarly beautiful texture to the 1998 but without the tannic rasp on the finish. Fat with concentrated redcurrant and cherry fruit. Good acidity and refined tannins that only show on the long finish. The double decanting did the trick as this showed in much more exuberant fashion to the last bottle. Lovely now and still a long life ahead.

1997 La Tour Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Deep ruby colour, almost no fading at the rim. Lovely deep nose of meat, red and black cherry and little coffee, just a little (slightly worrying) woody note too. Gorgeous fat palate which was both meaty and fruity. Really super concentration, good acidity and fine tannins – but unfortunately cork taint started to dominate . . . . Based on this bottle I will be looking at this domaine much more closely.

1997 Chézeaux Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

The shade is less deep than the 1998 – closer to that of the other wines – just fading a little at the rim. The nose is (for the first time) quite earthy, takes some aeration to coax the fruit from the glass, when it comes it’s a little more roasted than the other wines, a cherry tart rather than fresh cherries. A lovely fat and luxurious palate. Pure extract of fruit – no roast notes here. The tannins are very well covered by the extract. This wine is enchantingly long with flavours that go on and on, perhaps even better than the 1999.

1997 Moillard-Grivot Pommard

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Medium, medium-plus ruby red – still a shade of cherry at the rim. The nose is diffuse red fruit – but nothing to put a name to. Good concentration in the mouth with furry tannins and licorice black fruit. The palate is much more interesting than the nose.

1997 Lafarge Michel Volnay 1er Cru

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Medium cherry red, just starting to take on a more ruby colour. The nose is of bright red fruits – just a little primary and one-dimensional. The palate is fresh and clean with a quite lovely understated concentration coupled with discrete tannins. Just a little creamy edge to the finish. Showing in a young way and not a typical 1997 style. Very nice.

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