Medium yellow. An understated though slightly estery nose. The palate is more interesting, it shows real depth, good texture and very nice integrated acidity.
Comments for this entry
1997
1997 Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet
1997 Giboulot Emmanuel Côte de Beaune Le Grand Chatelaine
1997 Giroud Camille Volnay Carelles
1997 Tardy Jean Nuits St.Georges Les Boudots
1997 Mikulski François Meursault Les Genevrières
1997 Grivot Jean Richebourg
Medium-plus core of garnet red. The nose starts wide, slightly unfocused with deep and brooding fruit and a cedar note that’s reminiscent of many a 2004, slowly a little meat and glimpses of red fruit as the cedar withdraws. Eventually it’s slightly fresher, no cedar, and perhaps a little spiced tea. The initial texture is quite silky though in the mid-palate there is quite some grainy tannin that despite showing a little bitterness seems to help cement the very long finish. The flavours are mineral rather than fruit driven; quite some creamyness underpinning more cedar on the palate, it’s mouthwatering without being overly fresh. The overall effect is a little blurred – like a soft-focus picture. Summarising, there’s plenty of grand cru dimension, some secondary flavours and a structure that would benefit from another 3-5 years storage – but there’s no wow factor here.
1997 Mugneret-Gibourg Georges Chambolle-Musigny les Feusselottes
(From magnum) Medium-plus colour. The nose is surprisingly meaty and spicy, opening ever-wider and at the same time denser red fruit and a more mineral, cedar note comes through. The palate is very fresh and interesting for a 1997 – no dodgy acidity here – though perhaps only medium-plus length. Like the nose, the red fruit on the palate is rather dense and wall-like (like some ’95’s) – little in the way of delicacy is available and I’m not sure if more time will bring it, but this is quite young and almost impossible to pick blind as 1997. It’s still a fine young wine.
1997 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
(From Magnum) Medium golden. The nose starts both wider and deeper than the previous Meursault 1er, but less intense, eventually settling into a very mineral expression of better intensity, but neither the finishing depth nor sweet width off the Meursault. The texture is not the smoothest but in the mid-palate there is a real extra dimension vs the Meursault – a clear burst of interesting concentration. Once more there is the suggestion of a little oxidation – though only when first poured. This is a long, very mineral wine – perhaps more than one has a right to expect from 1997. From this format we have a very young wine.