13th september – charlemagne

By billn on September 13, 2007 #other sites#vintage 2007

Let’s start with a great harvest report.

We can then follow that piece with the Domaine de la Vougeraie diary, it just about avoids the corporate edge, and it’s full of interesting detail, each installment better than the last:

voug
More will follow tomorrow – provided the Vougeraie team cann get over the rugby, oh and the football too…

Most reds are now ‘in’, but the whites will need a few more days. One winemaker today tells me the following on his whites:

“Just getting Charlemagne in : beautiful, 13.7 for the first, waiting for the other.

This vintage is going to be fantastic for whites, I think. Puligny was this morning and yesterday afternoon. They weren’t as ripe as the Charlemagne: 12.2 and 12.8. I suppose I shouldn’t complain, it’s still quite enough, and I wanted to harvest my chardonnay’s less ripe than what I did those past years anyway. I really think I will gain elegance by harvesting with a bit less sugar.”

Tomorrow we will mainly be rounding up on the reds and how they have been performing in the vats.

chablis harvesting

By billn on September 12, 2007 #vintage 2007

I received the following today:

The 2007 grape harvest in Chablis: on the 9th September, the La Chablisienne co-operative began the grape harvest at Château Grenouilles
(Drinks Media Wire). Château Grenouilles is the only estate located at the heart of the Grands Crus vineyards. Discover the success of a co-operative with prospects.

Since 1923 in Chablis (Burgundy), the La Chablisienne co-operative and its 300 winegrowing-members have been producing great white wines from a mosaic of local soils, all marked by their own very particular minerals.

The La Chablisienne co-operative is present throughout the vineyard. Every year, they produce some thirty different vintages and crus, all boasting strong personalities: 6 Grands Crus, 11 Premiers Crus, Chablis wines and Petit Chablis wines. The very prestigious Château Grenouilles ranks first among these crus, and is the only estate to be located on the hill of the Grands Crus.

La Chablisienne is an exemplary and successful French co-operative. The figures on 31/07/07 confirm that fact with a 10% rise in the number of bottles marketed and a 16% rise in the turnover compared to 2006, which means La Chablisienne may well exceed its sales objectives with over 8 million bottles sold by the end of the year.

As a brand, La Chablisienne focuses its sales essentially on value and image-promoting sectors: wine merchants 9%, the café, hotel and restaurant circuit 32%, and export 59%.

Apart from promoting Chablis wines, this development also aims to enable as many family producers as possible to work the vineyard (with 180 member estates) and younger generations of winegrowers to settle there (25 young producers over a period of 5 years.)

Beyond its commercial success, La Chablisienne is more than ever a wine co-operative with prospects and a great future, preserving an exceptional heritage.

drouhin 98 clos saint denis

By billn on September 09, 2007 #degustation

csd
Nary a Drouhin in sight and here are two in a row, indeed a (hopefully) super third lies in wait. This is from bought rather than domaine fruit but, can you ever have enough Clos St.Denis? Add to that the purchase price of around $50…
1998 Joseph Drouhin, Clos St.Denistry to find this wine...
Medium red colour just a faint amber transition at the rim. The nose is deep, brown sugar and baked red fruit with some higher alcoholic traces and faint vanilla – it’s lovely. On your tongue you miss a little ‘fat’ and there’s just a bitter chocolate edge to the tannin, but the fruit is equally lovely and the finish is very, very long with a raisin-fruit edge. Value alone vs recent vintage pricing is enough to guarantee this being a ‘rebuy’ – it’s hard to find good 1er crus from 2005 at this price.
Rebuy – Yes

05 drouhin, domaine de vaudon chablis

By billn on September 09, 2007 #degustation

vaudon
I was surprised when I opened the 6-pack, because I thought I’d ordered this Chablis. It didn’t turn out too bad though!
2005 Joseph Drouhin, Domaine Vaudon Chablistry to find this wine...
Pale lemon-yellow. The nose has some intensity; high tones over ripe, linear fruit – there’s no seashore but it’s nice enough. Versus the ripe, slightly sweet Drouhin bottling, that is amply balanced by lovely acidity, this is just a little more austere; again super acidity but this time a little more to the fore but the mid-palate intensity – to which the acidity contributes – is super. Reasonable length too. Painfully young, but like an itch you can’t stop scratching – and this type of itch is usually more expensive to scratch – this is already my third bottle and I can feel another order coming on…
Rebuy – Yes

8th september – whole clusters anybody?

By billn on September 08, 2007 #vintage 2007

triage
What didn’t make it into the cuvée

Today at the home domaine it’s villages Vosne-Romanée and Charmes-Chambertin on the triage table. Whereas the Charmes looks ‘okay’, the Vosne looks excellent – so much so that the vieilles-vignes have been separated into another cuvée and are going into the tank with a high percentage of whole clusters. The younger vines will be de-stemmed as normal, so it will be interesting to compare the two.

Tomorrow is a free day, or at-least free from sorting, and Monday will see the Corton Clos du Roi harvested. Tuesday might be Chambertin and Latricières, otherwise they will come on Wednesday. Maranges will also come on Wednesday, so this vineyard is a little behind its usual evolution.

A trip to Meursault and Puligny this morning showed quite a few people harvesting their chardonnay, but the home team’s Corton-Charlemagne is most likely going to be left until next weekend as the forecast is as good as the last dry days.

What of the fermenting cuvées? Well the Beaune 1er Cru Les Cras has already 98% completed its alcoholic fermentation. The colours are actually very good, but the tannins are a little on the low side so more extraction will be tried. It’s actually very hard to judge the balance as there is a lot of malic acid (tartaric also) so we will have to wait a while.

And some notes from our winemaker friend in Morey St.Denis:

“What a heterogeneous harvest.

I have brought in 4 ha of fruit, the sugars are all over the place. Even within an appellation, I have a variation of 1°! We also have a smaller yield than estimated, but the quantities are decent. I can’t stall the harvest like Dominique though, my team is going back to school, and my drivers back to work. I’m afraid of rain, but I might stall the whites until next week. The Vegetation is dormant now, the only degrees I’ll get is with evaporation.

I have an average of 12° for everything which is correct. We’ll see how it goes in the tanks…

Our tannins are low, acids are high, I think that with some good work though we’ll get a decent wine in, the must is tasty, wild strawberries, blueberries, iron, licorice. I am hoping to get some nice spices in the end of fermentation. I am in the beginning of fermentation, I’m favoring a cold extraction, and good news, no smelly grapes this year for me.
I’ll send in more profound tasting notes in a few days. 1 or 2 days of soak are not enough, and I did have some shot berries and raisining in some vines.”

98 antonin guyon, corton clos du roy

By billn on September 06, 2007 #degustation

corton
1998 Antonin Guyon, Corton Clos du Roytry to find this wine...
Medium ruby-red colour. The nose is wide and quite forward, some diffuse higher tones and faintly spiced red fruit. The palate is lithe and muscular, good acidity too complimenting tannin that’s forward, but ripe and well under control. There’s a small burst of intensity before the finish – which is not bad, but could be longer. Muscular, interesting and balanced – if not stunning.
Rebuy – Maybe

04 château crée, santenay

By billn on September 05, 2007 #degustation#other sites

chateau cree santenay
2004 Château de la Crée, Santenay Clos du Châteautry to find this wine...
A ‘monopole’ I never heard of. Lots of attention has been made to the upmarket packaging, but how do the contents reflect the producer’s aspirations? Medium-pale ruby-red colour – looks older than the label suggests. The nose shows plenty of medium-toast, deep oak, above is a herbal potpourri element rather than the more common cedar of the vintage. Light-bodied but light on it’s feet too and with very good texture – the tannins have quite a fine grain. The acidity is fresh and even intense in the mid-palate, lingering into a good finish. Actually this is very well made – plenty of expensive oak, but well integrated and no heavy-handed extraction. The oak is just a little more obvious than my preference but this is both well-made and good value at €15.
Rebuy – Maybe

snap
Two new wine-related pieces; riesling and münster. I remember once sitting on a flight to Munich from Basel, it was summer and there was a smell – I though I’d forgotten my deodorant – when we landed the lady in front of me apologised in-case I could smell something, it was her package of Münster cheese in the overhead locker…

05 camille giroud gevrey en champs

By billn on September 04, 2007 #degustation#other sites

2005 Camille Giroud, Gevrey-Chambertin En Champstry to find this wine...
Medium cherry-red. The advice is to decant this as it may show a little reduction and carbon dioxide – so done. champsThe initially diffuse nose takes about 15 minutes for a more focused, higher-toned impression, still with a trace of reduction. About 90 minutes were needed for an additional, darker cherry depth and a hint of toffee – the longer you wait the better, but after 2 hours I’d finished. The texture is excellent, super smooth. The grain of the tannin comes very late, just after the acidity bursts through the mid-palate. The fruit is nicely expressive with faint torrefaction providing a nod to the wood treatment. Not perfectly balanced today as the acid needs to integrate a little more in the mid-palate, but I think this will be lovely. Wait 5 years for this very sophisticated, medium-bodied wine.
Rebuy – Yes

I asked David Croix about the wine – apparently 80 year-old vines that are biodynamically farmed. He only had the grapes for the 2005 & 2006 vintage though.

snap
Two new pieces worth a quick view; 1 and 2

snap
And a meal to die for – El Bulli

Burgundy Report

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