I admit that I rather fell out with the wines from this domaine following the release of the 1997 and 1998 vintages, wines with hair-raising tannins and little redeeming features to balance – or at least to stake a case for patience – but the 1995’s and 1996’s I always loved. A handy half-bottle provides the opportunity for a status report – given the performance I’m sure my Richebourgs will not be touched before their 20th anniversary…
1996 Jean Grivot, Clos de Vougeot
Still medium-plus colour, now it’s quite ruby-red though still a slightly cherry-red reflection remains. The nose is super-deep, chocolate-coated undergrowth with just a hint of more volatile elements. Lithe – actually quite muscular – with fading velvet tannin and real extra dimension in the mid-palate. This has a super, chocolate framed, finish that’s borne on great acidity. Powerful, concentrated but balanced; even in half-bottle format this is halfway between an intellectual challenge and pure pleasure, so in well-stored, larger, formats I would suggest waiting at least another 5 years.
Rebuy – Yes