Just back from Klosters, trying to remember how to ski – better late than never I suppose as I’m ‘racing’ next weekend – in the Inferno Rennen in Mürren. Nobody mention lycra suits….
Comments for this entry
thomas-moillard 2005 pommard 1er épenots
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose retains a consistently understated mix of the mineral, plus dark, deep red fruit. In the mouth it’s a powerful blend of intense fruit that peaks in the mid-palate, decaying with a creamy edge, and showing just enough tannin to poke it’s faint astringency through the blanket of fruit extract – slightly exacerbated by hint of carbon dioxide. The finish is very understated, but lingering and entirely made up of non-barrel elements – you can’t say that for many. Not the ultimate in smooth sophistication that many 2005’s can display, but at a good price, this would be an easy rebuy recommendation. Built with the long-term in mind, but today (at least) relatively approachable.
Rebuy – Yes
alex gambal 2006 chambolle 1er les amoureuses
2006 Alex Gambal, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Amoureuses
Started high-toned and diffuse – ouch, what’s happened here? – but 10 minutes in and the glass brings an ever-widening and ever-deepening palate of notes; deep, full, lightly sugar-coated cherries, swirling releases higher tones too – that’s more like it! In the mouth the first sip is also a little disconcerting, but following the path set by the nose, it fills out very nicely indeed – a broad range of flavours that amply fill the mouth. The fruit has none of the slightly distracting savoury element found in the Chambolle Charmes, but seems just a hint less ripe (no issue, just an observation), like-wise the tannin is finer, but clings a little harder to your gums as you exit the mid-palate for the finish – it just about falls short of being called astringent – how about astringent-ish(?) Very long, though just now, much of that length is barrel flavour. A very different kettle of fish to the 2005 which was a fulsome and brazen ‘drink me now’ type of wine – this one should be allowed to slumber – if I had any more ‘bottles’ I’d make another test in about 2016, but I don’t, so the magnums will have to wait until 2020!
Rebuy – Yes
In my original tasting notes, I said you may have to buy both this and the Chambolle Charmes – I’m glad I did!
alex gambal 2006 chambolle 1er les charmes
What with the previously opened St.Aubin and a waiting Amoureuses, it’s looking like ‘gambal corner’ here, but I really do want the opportunity to compare the chambolles. The 2005 Chambolle Charmes was a stunner, so how does this compare(?)
2006 Alex Gambal, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. A dense core of darkish cherry fruit is wrapped with some higher floral notes and a faint savoury note. In the mouth it’s concentrated, in fact it’s bursting with flavour, and though it’s quite fruit-driven, like the nose there’s also a savoury flavour here. The acidity is good, coupled to faintly grained tannin. The flavour in the finish seems a little dilute – it must be that late-appearing acidity making my mouth water – but there’s good length. Because of the savoury aspect I don’t find this quite as drop-dead gorgeous as the 2005 version, but I’m still happy to have some more in the cellar.
Rebuy – Yes
cheval clark…
(Domaine) David Clark has gone the whole hog (or should that be mare?) and started ploughing his recently acquired plot of Vosne-Romanée with horse power (no F1 jokes please). I expect he will be burying cow horns full of …. (whatever) next!
“In many ways it is the logical next step in respecting the health of my soils: in 2008 ploughing was the only vineyard task I did by tractor, everything else (including hedging and spraying) was done by hand. By avoiding compaction the soil develops a structure and life that is truly beautiful to observe.”
You can read all about it in Anglaise here, and to get a better feel, see the pictures in Français here – there are many more pictures in this website, e.g. ploughing between the vines for Domaine Arlaud and even Romanée-Conti…
offer of the day…
DOMAINE THIBAULT LIGER-BELAIR 2007
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN Les Croix des Champs 75cl 45.00 Swiss Francs
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES La Charmotte 75cl 47.50
VOSNE-ROMANEE Aux Réas 75cl 66.00
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES Les Saint-Georges 75cl 85.00
CLOS DE VOUGEOT 75cl 109.00
RICHEBOURG 75cl 259.00
Observations? Well the villages wines are averagely priced except the Vosne, which, like the 1er cru Les St.Georges, is too expensive – though Thibault (and others) have applied to make this vineyard a grand cru; that said, versus may other producers, the grand crus are ‘better’ priced. It’s the first time in a while I’ve a seen a Richebourg below 300 SFr, and (for example) Mugneret-Gibourg’s Clos de Vougeot is about 25% more expensive – or at least the 2006 is! I have not rushed for my credit card though.
alex gambal 2006 les murgers des dents de chien
Following on from yesterday’s Camille Giroud, here’s another updated label design that tweaks the old typeface a little, uses a smaller font size and generally looks very classy – well done Alex. You will, however, probably require a magnifying glass to read ‘Appellation Saint Aubin 1er Cru Contrôlée’ in the very small and faint typeface that’s employed – but then you already know that this is a premier cru don’t you! A wine that I’ve been buying since Gambal’s inaugural 2001 vintage (I only missed the 2003), so here’s a first look at the 2006.
2006 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents du Chien
The colour is a medium, medium-pale lemon-yellow. Dense, though not lush, aromas that are supported with citrus fruit elements. In the mouth it’s round with nice concentration and in the mid-palate shows the typical extra dimension of this cuvée. It’s fair to say that (in the 2006 vernacular) that this is a little plump, but the acidity is enough that it doesn’t become wearisome. Nice length. Another good showing.
Reybuy – Maybe
camille giroud 2006 gevrey en champs
The 2005 was just so good that I ‘needed’ to buy some 2006 – even without tasting! Actually the 2006 was the last vintage that Giroud had grapes from these 80 year-old vines – such a shame. This is much easier drinking than the 2005 – right from opening – as it seems to contain much less dissolved carbon dioxide. Anyway these are my first Giroud bottles with the new ‘livery’ – a cleaner and more contemporary design though not quite ‘there’ perhaps.
2006 Camille Giroud Gevrey-Chambertin En Champ
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is a sweet concoction of very well dovetailed dark oak notes and equally dark cherry fruit. In the mouth you start softly, plenty of sweetness, though the fruit doesn’t seem too ripe. Tannin is only really ‘suggested’ quite late, as flavour that peaks in the mid-palate just keeps rolling along. If anything (versus memory) this wine seems slightly denser than the 2005, but the way it just lingers on the tongue is quite the same. A super, if seemingly slightly sweet wine that will drink beautifully for the next year or two, but then you should be patient as it will probably peak closer to 2020.
Rebuy – Yes
wine index ‘edges down’
Who says wine is a safe haven in a downturn? – I suppose 15% is roughly the same drop as average house prices in the UK over the same period.
Source: Liv-ex
A related (I suppose) story which I failed to pick up before Christmas is the closure of Christie’s South Kensington wine sales department – after 30 years no less – clearly no razzamataz with that announcement, indeed, I expect Christies were rather hoping that no-one would notice.
Also related (I suppose) is the news that ‘Majestic’ have not sold as much champagne as usual…