2008 harvest, lowest since 2003…

By billn on February 17, 2009 #other sites#vintage 2008

A bookend on 2008 from the BIVB:

The 2008 Burgundy harvest is down 5.3 % on the 2007 harvest, and 4.4% against the average of the past five years. It amounts to the equivalent of 193 million bottles for a virtually unchanged production area (-0.2 %) of 27,626 hectares.

With the exception of the small heat-induced 2003 harvest, it is 10 years since the harvest was so low. As for red wines, with the equivalent of 60 million bottles (-6 %), there had not been such a small harvest (with the exception of 2003) since 1984.
White wine production is also down by 6 % at the equivalent of 116 million bottles, with regional AOCs and Mâconnais wines the most affected.
Only Crémant de Bourgogne is continuing to grow with a new record of nearly 17 million bottles (+2.6 %), or nearly 9 % of the Burgundy harvest, with 29 % for red wines, 1 % for rosés and 60 % for whites.

And from Domaine Joseph Drouhin:

The vintage report: 2008 Burgundy blessed with another great vintage

Autumn and winter were rather dry and mild; spring was cool and humid,
followed by a summer resembling 2007. By mid-September, the weather in
Burgundy turned extraordinary and allowed harvesting to take place under
ideal conditions.

Depending on the areas, the overall quantity is lower: 5% to 30% less than
in 2007. On the other hand, the quality level is high – and in Chablis even
exceptional.

Summary of the 2007/2008 growing season
Burgundy experienced a severe cold spell in mid-December but milder
conditions were prevalent in January and February. The average monthly
temperature was actually 2°C higher than normal. It didn’t rain much and
there was a water deficit during February.

But the rain shortfall ended in March and the long sunny period that
Burgundy had enjoyed that winter came to an end. In fact, it was probably
the sunniest winter of these last ten years.
Winter made a last-ditch intrusion at Easter: it snowed that day.

April was cool and wet, with little sunshine. By then, the amount of
rainfall received was twice as heavy as usual. The vine seemed to take its
time to grow: in some vineyards the buds were barely swelling on the branch
whereas, in better exposed areas, they were already sprouting and open.

No sooner had spring arrived that summer-like conditions became the norm.
The month of May was warm, with temperatures reaching 25°C (78°F) at times.
The vine took advantage of these conditions to develop rapidly. By mid-May
there were already 8 to 9 leaves out on the vine, the same level of
development seen in 2005.

The weather was rather cool and rainy for June. The flowering took place
over a two-week period, causing some coulure here and there (failure of the
grape to develop after flowering). Those vines planted in late-ripening
areas benefitted the most: when the temperature started to rise, the
flowering took place rapidly and uniformly.

At the beginning of July, the berries were well formed and distinct. By
July 15th, the grapes had assumed their final shape. The amount of sunshine
was close to normal, except in August. The change of color (véraison)
occurred in Beaujolais around August 15th. . It quickly spread to Côte d’Or
and Chablis as the climatic conditions improved dramatically.

The weather was cooler and wetter at the beginning of September, with
outbreaks of botrytis noticed in some areas. Maturation was progressing
slowly and the picking was due to begin September 22nd.

The weather turned beautiful by mid-September and stayed that way for the duration of the harvest: bright skies, dry and windy days, marked difference in temperature between day and night. The vines kept ripening under ideal conditions and all botrytis infection disappeared.

Style of the wines:
Chablis: In Chablis, 2008 may be one the best vintages of the last 25 years: great minerality, concentration, balance, aromatic intensity, liveliness. These wines are now developing under excellent conditions.

Côte d’Or: In mid-August who would have thought that these wines would turn out to be so good?

White wines: The wines have well developed aromas and their level of acidity is higher than usual. Stirring the lees gives the wines nice volume. We are waiting to see what influence the malolactic fermentation will have. It has actually started in a few of the cuvées. The quality level is overall excellent.

Red wines: Beautiful ruby-red color. As with the whites, the acidity level is high. The wines are therefore lively but their malolactic fermentation has not yet started, which is a good thing in our opinion. The wines have good stuffing, tannin and a discreet finesse which should become more apparent as the élevage goes on.

Frédéric J. DROUHIN
January, 19th 2009

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a date in nuits…

By billn on February 12, 2009 #diary dates

A communiqué from Nuits for your interest:

A first unique event :

The most important Domaines of Nuits Saint Georges : Domaine Bertrand Ambroise, Domaine de l’Arlot, Domaine Ballorin & F., Maison Albert Bichot, Louis Bouillot – Crémants de Bourgogne, Domaine Jean Pierre Bony, Domaine Chauvenet-Chopin, Domaine Jean Chauvenet, Domaine Chevillon-Chezeaux, Domaine Robert Chevillon, Domaine Jérôme Chezeaux, Domaine Georges Chicotot, Domaine Coudray Bizot, Domaine Dubois R. & Fils, Domaine Guy & Yvan Dufouleur, Domaine Dupaquier & Fils., Domaine Faiveley, Domaine Fleurot, Domaine Gachot Monot, Domaine Christian Gavignet Bethanie, Domaine Philippe Gavignet, Domaine Henri Gouges, Domaine Jean-Michel Guillon, Domaine Jaffelin, Domaine Laurent & Fils. Domaine Philippe & Vincent Lecheneaut, Domaine François Legros, Domaine Chantal Lescure, Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Domaine Alain Michelot, Domaine Paul Misset, Domaine des Perdrix, Domaine Petitot Jean & Fils., Domaine Henri & Gilles Remoriquet, Domaine Rion Daniel & Fils, Domaine Antonin Rodet, Domaine René Tardy & Fils et Domaine Pierre Thibert – come together for the first time to show their greatest wines.

Saturday 21st and Sunday 22nd March 2009

In the heart of the village of Nuits Saint Georges and on the occasion of the Auction of the Hospices de Nuits (from 10.. to 18.00). “The Nuits au Grand Jour” is the first exhibition bringing together all the major growers / winemakers of the Nuits Saint Georges, with the aim of allowing the general public to taste and buy the wines. The syndicat of appellation has convinced its members to organise a comparative tasting of all the “Climats” of Nuits Saint Georges. It provides a unique occasion to access the wines of certain domaines which are often difficult to find and also to discover lesser-known producers.

Truly a “First” for this prestigious village : such an event has never happened before. This event takes place during the weekend of the Auction of Hospices wines, the Chocolate Show and the Half Marathon. The lovers of wine will be able to taste and to buy all the wines shown on the day.

Very much hoping that your readers can come and take part of this first and unique tasting, we look forward to welcoming them very soon in Burgundy.

www.nuitsaugrandjour.com

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1999 prieuré-roch vosne-romanée les suchots

By billn on February 11, 2009 #degustation

1999 Prieuré-Roch Vosne-Romanée Les SuchotsDomaine Prieuré-Roch Profile
1999 Prieuré-Roch Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots

Some wines are impossible to encapsulate in a few words as they keep changing and developing in the glass – this is one such wine.
1999 Prieuré-Roch, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots try to find this wine...
A medium-plus core of ruby-red that fades to a crystal-clear watery edge. The nose is wine – but not as most people know it! A smoky, stemmy aroma that starts with an undertow – yes it can go deeper! – of dark oak. The oak fades within 15 minutes to leave a smoky impression of crushed/shredded vine leaves – but Autumn vine leaves, not Spring or Summer! Is there some fruit too? Well there is something behind, but you can’t really identify it. Time in the glass and you slowly transition from smoky elements to sweet, soft red strawberry fruit. The first sip gives you very finely grained tannin with a slight twist of astringency – but only slight. Decent freshness, though clearly moderated by all the stems (they increase pH), leading you into the mid-palate which has a nice and growing intensity against a sweet fruit background. The finish is long but very understated. Today this is riper and less tight from many from the vintage, yet it clearly should be left to slumber – it is also particular in style – whilst there is no overt oak flavour the stems initially dominate much more than in DRC, Dujac and l’Arlot, perhaps even more than Bourée. For me it certainly says more about the house style than the vineyard, but that’s today, I think I’ll make a comparison with the Arnoux when they reach 20 years, not long to wait…
Rebuy – Yes

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charles thomas vosne-romanée malconsorts 2001

By billn on February 10, 2009 #degustation

Charles Thomas Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Malconsorts 2001Thomas-Moillard Profile
Charles Thomas Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Malconsorts 2001

Very much a Jekyll and Hyde performance from this wine, and the Jekyll aspect means I can’t endorse it – but Mr Hyde…
2001 Charles Thomas, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Malconsortstry to find this wine...
The replacement for my last TCA infected bottle. Medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose is deep, slightly savoury, eventually full of beef stock though spicily wide – I have to say it’s far from pretty. In the mouth it’s much better; nicely fresh, intense, wide and flavourful – it’s really very good. There’s decently fine tannin and a nice flavour in the finish. The frankly off-putting nose eventually becomes more acceptable as the beef fades, adding focus with a nice red berry note – takes 2 hours. Day 2, top to bottom it’s a super wine, but most people don’t get to day 2, hence, I can’t be overly positive.
Rebuy – Maybe

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offer of the day – faiveley 2007…

By billn on February 08, 2009 #the market

DOMAINE FAIVELEY 2007 – Nuits-Saint-Georges

Côte de Beaune
POMMARD Les Rugiens 75cl 69.00 Swiss francs
CORTON Clos des Cortons 75cl 95.00

Côte de Nuits
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN Les Cazetiers 75cl 59.00
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES Les Saint-Georges 75cl 75.00
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY Combe d’Orveau 75cl 89.00
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY Les Fuées 75cl 98.00
CLOS DE VOUGEOT 75cl 99.00
ECHEZEAUX 75cl 99.00
LATRICIERES-CHAMBERTIN 75cl 109.00
MAZIS-CHAMBERTIN 75cl 119.00
CHAMBERTIN Clos de Bèze 75cl 169.00

Vin blanc Côte de Beaune
CORTON CHARLEMAGNE 75cl 159.00

I’m close to seeing value in the Cazetiers and Les St.Georges, the others are an easy pass for me, their pricing being at least 30% higher than with whom I normally place my orders. I think the market is soft enough that the majority of these will be easily obtainable in another year or two, the interesting thing will be whether they are selling at a discount or not.

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a day in the côtes & terres d’arômes 2007 volnay

By billn on February 07, 2009 #degustation#travel

Terres d'Arômes
Just back from a single day in the Côtes – leaving at 6:00am, returning at 10:30pm and including 5 hours driving – I slept well!

Last week I should have made two days of visits, but it wasn’t possible to re-arrange everything. Yesterday’s visits Roumier and de Vogüé made up for that though, as did my first meeting with Claire Forestier since early 2006. It seems Claire is working very hard on her new project ‘Terres d’Arômes’ – more of which in the Spring Burgundy Report. In the meantime here’s one from her inaugural 2007 vintage – it’s only been in bottle for a couple of weeks, but is apparently none-the-worse for it.

No photos to share – it was cloudy for most of the until late afternoon – when it started to rain like hell…
2007 Terres d’Arômes, Volnay 1er En Champanstry to find this wine...
The colour is medium, medium-plus cherry red with a faint purple rim. When first opened, there’s deep scent of faintly musky dark fruit, slowly the muskiness fades and the dark cherry moves to the fore, even accented by creaminess. More and more the nose fills and rounds out with higher tones – despite the dark fruit profile it’s a very elegant and lovely nose. In the mouth there’s very fine tannin that adds a little texture, fresh acidity and fruit that really imposes itself only from the mid-palate – but it widens nicely and has good depth.
Rebuy – Yes

Two stories in the papers in the last days to share with you:

  1. Jancis Robinson last weekend on 2007 burgundies, with a slight discussion bias to the ‘new’ négoce.
  2. Anthony Rose this weekend on 2007 burgundies, in particular extolling the virtues of the 2007 whites – of-course you heard that here months ago, didn’t you!
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2005 & 2006 giroud volnay taillepieds – side-by-side

By billn on February 05, 2009 #degustation

Camille Giroud, Volnay 1er Les Taillepieds
Camille Giroud, Volnay 1er Les Taillepieds

These vines typically cause all sorts of hard work when it comes to the annual harvest triage, but clearly the work and ‘dropped’ fruit are worth the effort.
2006 Camille Giroud, Volnay 1er Taillepiedstry to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus color. Initially a tight nose; floral high-tones and a darker oak base but for quite some time there is little more – patience raises a faint caramel impression as the barrel notes subside. In the mouth this is a little plump and furry from the ripe tannins and slides into a very long finish but one that’s currently dominated by oak. The concentration seems ample from the tight red fruit and though the acidity seems very understated you don’t really miss it until, perhaps, the finish. As it slowly opens and ’rounds’ in the glass the apparent concentration is similar to the 2005 but the delivery differs; this is up-front concentration that fades through the mid-palate, whereas the 2005 builds into the mid-palate and currently shows more layers. Day 2 this shows a little more rustic and behind the delivery of (for instance) the Pavillon Santenots at the same stage.
Rebuy – Maybe
2005 Camille Giroud, Volnay 1er Taillepiedstry to find this wine...
The colour is only a little more intense. The nose, however, is much more open – at least at the top-end with red fruit liqueur – below is a begrudging concentration of tight red notes, but there are occasional flashes of brilliantly pure red cherry. In the mouth this is plush, rather than plump – the still understated yet better balancing acidity seems to make the difference – much finer tannin than the 2006 and super intensity with serveral dimensions in the mid-palate. This shows a similar length to the 2006 but the oak has faded and you have a largely fruit-driven impression. If the 2006 is a fine 1er, then this vintage is by comparison a grand cru – what a shame that when I bought the last bottles at the domaine, there were only 3…
A superb Volnay.
Rebuy – Yes

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domaine de suremain (monthélie)

By billn on February 03, 2009 #asides#other sites

Domaine de Suremain in MonthéliePhoto: Bert Celce of wineterroirs.com.
Domaine de Suremain in Monthélie

I’ve had a few promising wines from Domaine de Suremain – like this one – so it’s nice to learn a little more, courtesy of a very tidy report in Bert Celce’s Wine Terroirs

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alex gambal 2001 les murgers des dents de chien

By billn on February 02, 2009 #degustation

Alex Gambal Dents de ChienAlex Gambal Profile
Alex Gambal Dents de Chien

My cold seems to have abated and I only have to put up with a stupid cough. Unfortunately though, it meant I had to cancel 2 days of visits in the Côtes last week – still I shall be there this Friday as consolation…

I have a few of these still in the cellar, so concerns about the stability (or not) of white burgundy pushed me into taking a peek. It seems that I shouldn’t worry…

2001 Alex Gambal St.Aubin 1er, Les Murgers des Dents de Chientry to find this wine...
The colour raises suspicious eyebrows – medium golden – but despite slightly heavy fruit aromas at first, the nose is rather clean and there’s not a trace of oxidation. A little swirling reveals rather young, mainly pineapple, fruit – a good start then. Nice texture, acidity that unobtrusively shepherds you through to the finish and a little extra mid-palate dimension. In its current adolescence the amplitude of the peaks and troughs of this wine have been squeezed a little since it was bought, but that’s what you get when talking to adolescents! Drunk over 4 consecutive nights without a hint of oxidation, and confidence renewed, I’ll wait another 5 or 6 years before taking another look.
Rebuy – Yes

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