camille-giroud 2008 bourgogne cuvée lees

By billn on October 03, 2010 #degustation

giroud-2008-lees

I know Jamie’s not a big fan of lenticels (!) but this one has no problems. The cuvée Lees is a blend of the lees of all the domaine’s red wines – Maranges, Chambertin etc. – so can only be a bourgogne. I think that 2007 was the first time they did this. Given the late malos and bottling of the 08s I think that this has been in bottle less than a month, clearly you need a long time for the fine lees to settle!

2008 Camille Giroud, Bourgogne Cuvée Lees
Stood up in the cellar for 4 days before opening – it wasn’t enough to make the wine shiny bright. Medium, medium-plus colour, The nose has a wild young-wine freshness and immediacy, given an hour or so there is a direct and perfect raspberry note. In the mouth this is wide, very complex, sweet and cushioned. The acidity has a a bit of a leading edge of sharpness (perhaps exacerbated by the suspended material?) but the padding largely covers it. Good length and very tasty right now, in fact in the right circumstances you might be forgiven for thinking it a much higher AOC. This bottle found many friends…
Rebuy – Yes (and I did)

fourrier 2004 gevrey-chambertin

By billn on October 01, 2010 #degustation

fourrier-gevrey-2004

2004 Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
Medium-plus colour. The nose starts a little, inky and earthy with plenty of background reduction – the reduction is a minor flavour component too – it neads to aerate a little, so I decant. An hour later and there’s a higher-toned red fruit note, faint alcohol too but the reduction is gone. The last drops have a lovely redcurrant lift. Decent impact, perhaps a little monolithic like some other Fourrier 04s, but the lingering flavours and the overall balance are very good. I don’t discern any vintage character, but I have the impression I’d probably rather drink a majority now than leave them all in the cellar.
Rebuy – Maybe

harvest – 30th september

By billn on September 30, 2010 #vintage 2010

I read that the Morey domaines of Dujac and L&A Lignier have completed their harvests today – Jeremy Seysses bemoans the fact that he only ended up with 25hl/ha for his villages Morey, though no quality complaints – actually a little white Monts-Luisants is still to be picked on Friday by Dujac.

At the home domaine there were no new grapes, just the last of the Santenay from Wednesday to finish which was triaged in the morning – the grapes are fine at 6°C overnight! The last grapes to be brought in will be Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin and some Hautes-Côtes. Maybe tomorrow or maybe Saturday – let’s see.

The first fermentations have started; the grapes from the new contract for villages Volnay were ‘innoculated’ via the addition of a little must from a tank that was already fermenting – ‘the boss’ deciding that despite clean-tasting juices, he didn’t want to hang around waiting. Also the white (Meursault) that was brought in before I arrived has started to ferment.

harvest – 29th september

By billn on September 29, 2010 #vintage 2010

This was a very busy – but dry – day for the home team.

Grapes from Maranges, Santenay villages, Vosne-Romanée and finally Corton Clos du Roi. Maranges and Vosne were in great shape (photos later) the Corton Clos du Roi and Santenay needed more triage. The Corton had a similar amount of botrytis to the Ladoix and the grapes could perhaps have been picked a day or two earlier – but we generally hold on because of the tannins. The Santenay needed green and rotten fruit removing.

It’s worth noting that maximum triage this year (reds!) is still only in the region of 6-7% the average being much lower; only 05 and 09 have been better in the last 7 vintages.

Short but sweet – more info tomorrow.

winner mondial du monde – world best pinot – donatsch 2008 ‘passion’

By billn on September 28, 2010 #degustation#etrangers

2008-donatsch-pn-passion

So let’s try that champion du monde. Shame it was delivered just after I left for Beaune – it would have been good to open with the team.

2008 Donatsch, Pinot Noir ‘Passion’ [Switzerland]
The nose needs a bit of time to open, but when it does there’s a small impression of chalky fruit, then a reasonably concentrated and high-toned raspberry, finally a forward brûlée (mainly vanilla) note. Actually the fruit/brûlée mix is quite nice. In the mouth it is round, very well textured – very smooth – and like the nose has lots of additional mid-palate dimension that is vanilla oak derived. It reminds me of a Beaune – actually a slightly fatter version of the very good 2007 Beaune 1er Blanche Fleurs from Dublère that I had last Thursday. The acidity is nothing more than an undercurrent, just making itself known through a little mouthwatering in the finish. In summary, even by the standards of Burgundy this is a good wine. It has been expertly oaked, such that while it’s not really lacking any density, the oak is also not really letting much character show – not yet anyway – though the fruit is of decent quality, perhaps a zip more of acidity might have helped. Despite that (today) minor character reservation, my 80++ year-old mother-in-law thought it very tasty, me too!
Rebuy – Yes

How much? By Swiss standards this is relatively inexpensive at 30 Swiss Francs per bottle from the domaine.

harvest – 28th september

By billn on September 28, 2010 #vintage 2010

(in absentia as I had to come home to do something less manual!)

The last thing I did before I left yesterday was to taste through some of the different cuvées. Of-course it’s only fruit juice right now, and with so much sugar the pH of 3.2 means nothing! Still the colours seem to be extracting nicely and the flavours are very clean indeed – interesting that of the two (vinified separately) Volnay villages cuvées, one seemed more powerful, the other to have more complexity. Despite one needing more triage they both seem spotlessly clean – in the end I guess it’s just down to how much you have to throw away!

Today was a dry day in the Côtes. The home team brought in Marsannay and Gevrey. The Marsannay from the southern part of Les Longerois had lots of millerandes and was quite clean – a little botrytis, but only 100kg was thrown away from 3 tonnes of grapes. The Gevrey was a mix of older and younger vines; the young vines had more botrytis in the bunches than the older ones, but again significantly less to triage than either 2007 or 2008.

I await more info on toilet seats and photographic evidence of some decent grapes – I’ll update this when I have it.

Burgundy Report

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