2004 rené engel grands-echézeaux

By billn on September 21, 2010 #degustation

engel-grands-echezeaux-2004

The back label of this bottle, Philippe Engel’s last vintage, has a poem from William Blake to toast him.

2004 Rene Engel, Grands-Echézeaux
Medium ruby-red – I caught myself admiring the late-evening sun as it beautifully reflected through the glass. The nose is not immune to the vintage character; it starts at an encouragingly low level but disappointingly blooms in the glass – maybe to a 6/10 level. Below the mirepoix is a creamy, faintly lactic depth – and depth this wine certainly has. Wide in the mouth, the acidity has a slightly jarring, sharp leading edge – give it an hour of aeration and this mainly but not completely tones down. The texture is very fine and the width and depth are high-class indeed. The length, despite its persistence, currently holds onto some of that character. Today this isn’t a fitting tribute to Philippe, so take any of 99-2003 to toast him – they are all drinking well. I hope that my other bottles of this will come good in another 10 years or so…
Rebuy – No

harvesting a-go-go! well, almost…

By billn on September 20, 2010 #vintage 2010

forecast-20-sept

Plenty of producers in the Côte de Beaune have started to harvest their first parcels today. Fewer in the Côte de Nuits have ventured out, most of those look like they have another 3 or 4 days left to sharpen their secateurs.

My timing to join the home team looks not too bad – shame that the long-term forecast means rain might great me on Friday – that said, the long-range forecast has been wrong all year! On a positive note I feel sure that lots of producers will point to the fact that they need light as much as heat to ripen their grapes – in that respect the last days and those to come look like they might help them to generate some positive ‘spin’!

latest vintage update & windmills in meursault for vincent girardin…

By billn on September 16, 2010 #vintage 2010

Things are very busy at Vincent Girardin’s base in Meursault; not only are they about to start harvesting, they’ve also bought a new domaine.

First the harvesting; it’s starting for Vincent Girardin with some chardonnay in the Côte de Beaune, some others are already brining in the first grapes. The storm on Sunday that delivered hail to northern Santenay and parts of Chassagne (‘just’ Morgeot mainly) mainly left a lot of fruit needing to picked sooner rather than later. The rest of the domaine’s vines will be harvested between next week and the end of the month.

Another grower confirms this, telling me:

There’s rot and it’s ok with the cold weather but there’s great heterogeneity. Anyway in general everyone is planning to pick earlier than they had first expected so harvest will probably be over by Oct 1st

Let’s see…

forecast-17-sept

Now back to the enlarged Domaine Vincent Girardin – actually the new part is still a separate entity because it’s in Beaujolais – but there are 20 new hectares of vines from the estate La Tour du Bief in Chénas:

moulin-a-vincent-girardinAll parcels of the twenty hectares of the estate La Tour du Bief are in the village of Chénas with “lieux-dits” Les Caves, La Rochelle, Les Vérillats, Le Bief and La Tour du Bief.
A rigorous, impeccable farming plan allowed us to find an exceptional genetic reserve, with some of the vines being more than 80 years old. What more can be expected when the ambition is to restore life to this estate by producing exceptional wines?
Today, my goal is to continue the tradition of the production of great Moulin-à-Vent wines that, in the last century, competed with the great villages of the Côte de Nuits. With their structure and complexity linked to a potentially important capacity for ageing, wines from Moulin-à-Vent were always cited as examples and with age, it’s said that they “Pinotent”, meaning getting closer to their Burgundian (Pinot) neighbors by evoking aromas of cherry, matured fruits, spices and truffle.
A project of classification of the best soils as “Premier Crus” as in Burgundy is about to be studied to return this great wine to nobility. The parcels of the estate will be affected by this classification.
Winemaking is traditional, followed by ageing partly in wood foudres of 50hl and then in Burgundian barrels of 228 liters. Wines are neither fined nor filtered in order to give them as much complexity and life as is natural.

(Vincent’s press release.)

david clark 2008 côte de nuits villages…

By billn on September 15, 2010 #degustation

david-clark-cdnuits-villages-2008

2008 David Clark, Côte de Nuits Villages
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. Like many of David’s wines the aromas have a dark undertow that has a hint of reduction at its core but there a musky padding to it that makes it quite compelling. Cool, this has just enough padding to cover the acidity – as it warms in the glass the balance is more generous. Very good width to not especially deep fruit, but there’s a hint of creaminess to add to the crunchy dark fruit and a lovely length. I like this very much, and whilst I might prefer to drink it before the fruit fades and the acidity becomes pronounced, it might still be interesting to save a bottle or two. Very nice indeed.
Rebuy – Yes

getting closer – vintage 2010…

By billn on September 13, 2010 #other sites#vintage 2010

With less than a week to go for some. After some heavy rain yesterday and even hail in (at least) Santenay, here are a few thoughts on the harvest from one winemaker…

It is the best of times, it is the worst of times. Lots of rain over the past week, interspersed with some sun. Perfect rot conditions. The winds we’ve had have been mostly moist, so no help there. Weather’s supposed to degrade again at the end of the week and through the weekend, making things even more interesting. I’m doing sampling tomorrow, and will probably start sometime after the 20th, with the sample results and weather forecast both coming into the decision-making process. I don’t expect to finish until well into October, however.

And new for today – how clean is your wood? !

nicolas potel 2002 vosne 1er aux malconsorts

By billn on September 11, 2010 #degustation

potel-malconsorts-02

2002 Nicolas Potel, Vosne-Romanée 1er Aux Malconsorts
Medium colour. This has limited aromatic width, but what depth! There’s a lot of Vosne about the nose; spice, ginger and warmer fruit at the base. In the mouth this has something in common with the nose – not really a grand cru impact, but absolutely a grand cru complexity, mid-palate dimension and finish – the acidity focusing and extending the length. This is seriously good and much more open than I had right to expect from a 2002. Lovely wine.
Rebuy – Yes

nicolas potel 2006 chambolle 1er les fuées

By billn on September 10, 2010 #degustation

potel-fuees-06

2006 Nicolas Potel, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Fuées
Medium-plus colour. The nose has depth and almost texture; sometimes when you have brett there’s a texture impression, and I have it here, but it seems clean enough. The fruit is dark and occasionally gives flashes of brilliance. It’s fresh and intense, keep it in your mouth and it becomes even more intense as the acidity penetrates your tongue. The tannin really only shows itself – and mildly – from the mid-palate into the finish and as a slightly bitter but flavour adhering additive – hmm, licorice I think. Actually there is more flavour in the finish than you get at the start – it really builds and builds. Overall – full-packed, hinting to rustic but full of interest and I might even say fun! If the nose didn’t slowly develop a more floral and pretty ‘whole’ I don’t think you’d ever have ‘Chambolle’ as your first guess – I suppose that’s the proximity to Bonnes-Mares for you. I’m happy to have a couple of larger format bottles to work through from 2020 onwards!
Rebuy – Yes

from a vigneron this weekend – vintage 2010 so far

By billn on September 08, 2010 #vintage 2010

vines“It’s a bit early to say much about the vintage, but I get the feeling we’re heading for another mixed-bag of a year, perhaps like 2006 or 2008. The best vineyards look perfect (as they do every year – plague, pestilence and hail permitting), while the worst are beginning to look a bit sad with some rot, mildew and uneven ripening. That said, on average, I think there is currently less rot and mildew than recent ‘challenging’ vintages (04,06,07,08).
The soil was damp for much of August so perhaps 2010 is unlikely to be the last word in concentration. I haven’t heard anyone else make the comparison, but it reminds me a bit of 2006 with a hot June/July, disappointing August and then (hopefully!!) a pleasant September.
The weather is currently perfect (low 20s, breezy and sunny) and forecast to remain so until next week which looks stormy and wet. Obviously the weather we get next week and beyond could have a major influence on the style of the vintage”.

Burgundy Report

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