2008 A&R Olivier, Bourgogne Chardonnay
Using a ‘Diam’ seal. Medium yellow. The nose has the faintest creamyness which hints to brioche and sherbet, but majors on sweet green-yellow fruit. There is some fat and sweetness but also a stonyness at the core. Well balanced with medium length. This is very good indeed, it doesn’t topple my benchmark 08 bourgogne, but then this is a about 25% cheaper!
Rebuy – Yes
I’d heard that this was on its last legs. So rather than let it fester in the cellar, I hoped that maybe there was a chance of a last ‘hurrah’ but it seems reports of this wine’s death have been exaggerated!
1994 JF Mugnier, Musigny
Well the cork is in great shape; long, flexible and not a hint of seepage. Medium garnet red. The nose is a little dense – there’s depth certainly, but it’s a little cooked and monolithic – not really the elegance or complexity of Musigny to start with, but slowly a more penetrating and pure red fruit nose comes centre-stage – after 2 hours it’s quite engaging. There is plenty of balance, understated slightly astringent tannin and a finishing note that is mineral with a hint of tannic bitterness – well one thing’s for sure; this is far from a mature wine. In the end I drank it whilst admiring certain aspects of it but without ever warming to it. The flavours are certainly more mineral than fruit influenced and it’s far from a thing of beauty right now – actually it’s still an ugly duckling – but if I had a second bottle in such good condition I wouldn’t open it for at least another 5 years.
Rebuy – Maybe
2007 L&A Lignier, Morey St.Denis Vieilles Vignes
Medium, medium-plus colour. Right from the start there are high, almost floral tones leaking from the glass – below is a redder fruit note. There’s plenty of acidity here but it’s suddenly consumed by a width of extract, slightly rustic finishing tannin and some creamy vanilla oak. The finish has that vanilla too and a slightly greeny/herbal element. Interesting, engaging almost but I’d personally be looking for a hint more composure if I was going to go long on this wine, that said, this was the perfect Burgundian food match – with Lasagna!
Rebuy – Maybe
Well the last one was really good – so what’s to lose in trying again? Another bit of humour on the top of the cork – I’m definitely warming to this producer. I think I need to try their bourgognes – that’s usually the acid-test!
2008 A&R Olivier, Santenay 1er Beaurepaire
Medium-plus colour. The nose starts almost too forward but slowly settles into a fine and deep expression of red and black fruits and something that almost touches on aniseed. Concentrated and certainly intense this has more padding than the villages Santenay so never hints at anything mouth-puckering. The texture is very good indeed. This premier cru essentially delivering more weight without any penalty in terms of fineness or focus. Really very accomplished.
Rebuy – Yes
A slight name-change since I last tasted a bottle from this domaine, but the quality is just as good. Maybe I should pay a visit. Anyway I like the sense of humour for the cuvée name!
2008 A&R Olivier, Santenay ‘Les Temps de C(e)rises’
Medium-plus, bright cherry red colour. The soft red fruit has width and impressive depth, a faint musty/stalky element to but it’s more complexity than a negative – it is anyway gone after 30 minutes of air. Full, bright, perhaps a hint petillant to start – I’ll let it settle for a while. Settle down it does; there is depth, impressive intensity and a clarity to the fruit that you don’t always find with Santenay. The acidity is just about covered, helped by quite some velvet texture, but still gives a lip-smacking effect – better than mouth puckering I suppose. I like this a lot for it’s ebullient ‘crunchy’ fruit, but when it loses some flesh it will be more challenging. Factor in a price of just over €10 and it is an absolute winner – bravo!
Rebuy – Yes
A tasting recollection – drunk over dinner with friends on Saturday.
2000 Lambrays, Clos des Lambrays
Medium, medium-pale colour. A little warmth of alcohol in the nostrils but chocolate, good stems and clean undergrowth too – it was very pretty. In the mouth there is sweetness, good balancing acidity and a tannin that just occasionally shows itself in the quite long finish. Dry stuff that description – often the problem with recollections – it doesn’t tell you that everyone around the table was oohing and ahing and saying the same word – ‘lovely’. Showing very well now but with the balance to last and last…
Rebuy – Yes
In brackets are the 2008 price and even the 2007 price from the same offer where available.
DOMAINE HENRI BOILLOT – millésime 2009 (Subscription)
VILLAGES BLANCS 2009
BOURGOGNE Chardonnay 75cl 22.00 (22.00) Swiss Francs
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 75cl 39.50 (40.00)
MEURSAULT 75cl 42.00 (42.00 2008) (54.00 2007)
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 75cl 44.00 (45.00 2008) (56.00 2007)
PREMIERS CRUS BLANCS 2009
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET Les Embrazées 75cl 59.50 (59.00)
MEURSAULT Les Charmes 75cl 69.50 (68.00 2008) (85.00 2007)
MEURSAULT Les Perrières 75cl 85.00 (78.00 2008) (95.00 2007)
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Clos de La Mouchère 75cl 72.00 (72.00 2008) (89.50 2009)
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Caillerets 75cl 79.00 (78.00 2008) (89.50 2009)
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Pucelles 75cl 79.00 (78.00 2008) (99.00 2007)
GRANDS CRUS BLANCS 2009
CORTON CHARLEMAGNE 75cl 109.00 (109.50 2008) (149.00 2007)
CRIOTS BATARD MONTRACHET 75cl 178.00 (175.00 2008) (215.00 2007)
BIENVENUES BATARD MONTRACHET 75cl 199.00 (209.50 2008) (249.00 2007)
BATARD MONTRACHET 75cl 259.00 (269.50 2008) (295.00 2007)
MONTRACHET 75cl 429.00 (449.00 2008) (499.00 2007)
PREMIERS CRUS ROUGES 2009
SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE Les Lavières 75cl 39.50 (42.00)
BEAUNE Clos du Roi 75cl 48.00 (49.00 2008) (59.50 2007)
VOLNAY Les Fremiets 75cl 59.00 (60.00 2008) (75.00 2007)
VOLNAY Les Caillerets 75cl 69.00 (69.80 2008) (79.00 2007)
GRANDS CRUS ROUGES 2009
CLOS DE VOUGEOT 75cl 109.00 (99.80)
CHAMBERTIN 75cl 159.00 (159.00)
BONNES MARES 75cl 168.00 (165.00)
Mixed messages. Whites – certainly at the top-end – are down on 2008 prices. At the high-end it is the reverse case for the reds. This is probably in-line with the respective qualities of vintages i.e. an average red being better in 09 whereas and average white being better in 2008….
Lastly, I will leave you with a story about concrete eggs 😉
It’s all tumble-weed around here at the moment – the shock and surprise at finally finishing typing the Summer report meant that my body decided it was a good time to catch a cold! Probably just as well, as aided by neighbours and friends I only seem to have left one bottle each of the Gambal 06 | 07 | 08 bourgognes – now how did that happen? – I’m not planning to go back until harvest too. Quel cauchemar!!
Clearly no drinking around here for a a few days, so first, maybe a little Beaujolais 2009, then maybe you can learn something about Burgundy from Jamie Goode and his barking dog!
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