2008 L&A Lignier, Fixin Champs Vosgers (blanc)
Medium yellow. The nose is faintly sweet with an undertow of flowers and maybe a hint of sulfur. In the mouth this has a lovely bubbling acidity – I remember the 08 being borderline tart – bright and pretty but with a nice sweetness and extra width of flavour in the mid-palate. Lingering on a mouth-watering note. Many Fixins seem to me rather too savoury in their youth and whilst interesting, I wouldn’t be filling my cellar with them. This one avoids that ‘trap’ and begs a top-up to the glass. Yum.
Rebuy – Yes

After the Pousse d’Or failure – I’m glad I persevered with this vintage…

1995 Dujac, Morey St.Denis
Medium rusty-red. The nose is a blend of stemmy perfume – and at this age it really is perfume – and a higher-toned fresh plum fruit that flirts with a floral dimension; it’s quite lovely and keeps drawing me back for another sniff as the fruit changes to cherry and even recurrant with time. In the mouth it doesn’t quite have that melt-in-the-mouth texture that you get with a perfectly matured wine, but there’s freshness and a structure that remains bright, indeed almost stern. The acidity is just about perfect, being the baseline for a beautifully understated but fine finish. Such a shame that I have only three or four more of these.
Rebuy – Yes

I was looking forward to this – though after much rummaging in the cellar I was surprised it was 1995 – I had in mind it was a ’93. Whatever, I knew it was the last one. Hmm, the cork was a bit pooey – but more rubber than ‘cork’ – I left it in the fridge a while, after-all it was 30°C outside. On my return the colour is good – not a hint of browning – but clearly there’s TCA on the nose, less so on the palate which has some sweetness and no overt tannin. I drank the whole glass, but didn’t take a second.