a brace if îles…

By billn on September 16, 2012 #degustation

I’m currently straining at the bit for ‘vendanges info’ as I won’t be in the Côtes until next Monday – to distract myself this weekend, not only a few hours walking in the ‘hills’ but a trio of nice wines too: Starting with Daniel Rion’s 1995 Vosne 1er les Beaux Monts. It’s not that long since I gave a note on that one – so I won’t repeat myself – but again it was a good wine. Then a pair of Île de Vergelesses – both were on great form. I can see me collecting a few other labels from this vineyard over the next months…

2009 Chandon de Briailles, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Ile des Vergelesses
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose gives a simply wonderful impression – a large bowl of dark-skinned, perfectly ripe cherries. In the mouth there is real concentration, understated tannin which may be suave but is also powerful. The acidity is enough, if undemonstrative, yet effortlessly delivers the mid-palate’s depth of flavour. Understated yet impressive length – rather like the wine itself…
Rebuy – Yes

2008 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Ile des Vergelesses
Medium, medium-plus colour. There’s a hint of musk with dark red fruit – not so much vanilla as last time. Finely muscled and intense, borne on the lovely (when balanced) acidity of the vintage. The mid-palate fruit also showcases that musky character – but in a very, very nice way. Super finishing flavours – this remains a hit and is still very, very drinkable.
Rebuy – Yes

tollot-beaut 2008 savigny-lès-beaune 1er les lavières

By billn on September 13, 2012 #degustation

tollot-beaut-savigny-lavieres-2008

What a coincidence – I find one of these in the cellar but don’t have my camera to hand, so look if I’ve a photo from a previous T-B Lavières – lo and behold, almost exactly one year ago, the same wine! Maybe I should start to ‘research’ before I pop the cork! Oh well! As a footnote, this is now a little narrower and sleeker, I was also too late to buy some magnums…

2008 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Lavières
Deep, dark, squeeky-clean fruit with just a little vanilla to add weight. There is still plenty of comfy texture, dovetailed to fine acid-borne intensity – the last note remains a hint of vanilla-infused rock – the tannin is still completely submerged in its fine-ness. I think it’s lost just a little fat in the last year, but it remains very drinkable – very!
Rebuy – Yes

‘Super-Jacques’ plus something beige…

By billn on September 06, 2012 #degustation#other sites

“I’m not after technical perfection. I don’t have much time for the Australian approach, where the ideal wine is the most neutral. It’s easy to clean up a wine, but by removing faults, unless they’re truly detrimental, you also remove its life. I understand the impulse oenologists have for the cleanest wines possible, but I refuse to go along with it. A wine’s magic doesn’t derive from its technical perfection, and I want to preserve the magic, even though not everyone who tastes the wine will perceive it. Good Burgundies are dynamic wines that make you think and reflect as you drink them. For me that’s all positive.”
Jacques Lardière

If I’m honest, I don’t have that much time for Decanter. That said, more brilliant stuff like this interview of Jacques Lardière by Stephen Brook, and I believe I could be persuaded otherwise – but you try finding this article from their homepage!
[Archived]

gambal-2009-bourgogne-blanc

Another 2009 Bourgogne from Alex – and either it’s the last one or I’ve hidden the others under too many competing bottles – either way, I’m not that fussed! The thing is, after the personality of his 2006-2008 Bourgognes, this comes across a little ‘beige’. That said, it’s probably already time to get aquainted with the 2010!

2009 Alex Gambal, Bourgogne Chardonnay
Nice enough, balanced enough, concentrated enough. It misses a single but rather important virtue – personality.
Rebuy – Maybe

Oh! And just when you thought you had everything! It doesn’t seem to be trending yet! 😉

comtes lafon 2008 monthélie les duresses

By billn on September 04, 2012 #degustation

2008 Comtes Lafon, Monthélie 1er Les Duresses
There’s a bit of texture from some dissolved CO2 – I make a quick impression of a racing driver, there’s a ‘phut’ from the end of the bottle (as I remove my finger), and we can carry on. Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has a little of that stewed 2008 cabbage impression but’s completely dispersed by a quick swirl – revealed is a dark cherry fruit surrounded with a biscuity note. In the mouth this just lovely – nicely intense dark fruit with a beautiful acid lift in the mid-palate, only just ripe – picked à point! With the lift of acidity, there’s also a flash of frank red fruit. Decent texture with a little furry tannin, finishing with a lovely fresh flavour. Finished rather quickly, it has to be said…
Rebuy – Yes

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