a beautiful day (montrachet, lameloise and three crosses…)

By billn on December 01, 2012 #picture gallery

Montagne des Trois Croix

The sky was blue this morning – it was going to be a good day: breakfast at Le Montrachet with ‘la friend’ then a long walk in the hills above the vines of Santenay.

We rolled up at Le Montrachet about 9:30am and – oops! – closed until 11th January – shock!

It was already getting late, where should we go? La friend had a cracking idea: ‘What about Lameloise?’ Why not I thought! Then came the quote that I will remember for a while: ‘I can’t find Lameloise in my phonebook!’ Like you call Lameloise every day…!

Eventually the google found the number (not easy in Puligny as reception is rubbish) and the call was placed: ‘We’d love to offer you hot drinks, but we can’t offer you any food’! (my exclamation!) So we went to a café in Meursault – also no breakfast possible, but they kindly suggested we could buy croissants and cakes and eat them in the café. A result!

About 11am we went our separate ways and it was time to put on the walking-boots. Long-suffering Elsa would now be able to look sad while walking, instead of sad while just sitting. From Santenay Le Haut we walked up the hill that’s topped by a limestone ridge, though actually it isn’t – when you get to that height you’ll see there’s even further to go – to the ‘three crosses!’ About a quarter of the way up is a tiny hamlet with a fine church – Saint Jean – its roads are being refurbished, but there are a few pretty houses in this secluded place, though only one of them is occupied, a nice man I met walking his dog – he said the rest are all second homes! We headed higher and the views were simply brilliant, patches of vines all the way up past 400m but plenty ‘en friche’ scrub too. Then, just when you expect (maybe) trees to take over, it is just grassland with small bushes, and eventually grazing Charolais too – some big ones.

You top out at 521 metres with the three crosses and a 360° panorama – everything was still frozen up there. The walk down was just as good, and as we got to the bottom, Elsa was finally smiling – it was food time!

It was a beautiful day…

digioia-royer 2010 chambolle-musigny

By billn on November 28, 2012 #degustation

A strong wine from ‘dee-joy-er roy-er’…

2010 Digioia-Royer, Chambolle-Musigny
Deep colour. The nose starts with a little cola from the CO2, but as it fades dark fruit comes to the fore with a delightful aroma of black cherries and violets too. Despite the nose cleaning-up, the palate needs longer for the rasp of gas to leave. Dark flavours that hint towards reduction – though it’s far from obvious – with an extra depth of fruit flavour in the mid-palate, just accented with a little cream – seemingly from fruit not barrel, plenty of extract in the finish too. That said there’s a espresso-like bitterness in the finish, perhaps a hint of salt too – it is very well-judged oak after-all! An hour after opening, this is really very fine! Day two it’s a stream-lined, silky beauty – yum!
Rebuy – Yes

bourgogne pinot noir – 2010 – buisson-charles

By billn on November 27, 2012 #degustation

2010 Buisson-Charles, Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is quite dark red cherry with perhaps a raspberry acompanyment too. A ripe entry with more succulent sweet fruit than you have right to expect in all but the warmest vintages. Succulent is the perfect word, I think. Like the nose, the fruit is a deep red cherry with a furry, slightly grainy hook of tannin. Outstanding Bourgogne.
Rebuy – Yes

jean-marc bouley 2010 volnay vv

By billn on November 26, 2012 #degustation

The Poulleau from a couple of days ago was really good, but how good? Let’s contrast it to the wine of Thomas Bouley…

2010 Jean-Marc, Volnay Vieilles Vignes
Deeper colour than the Poulleau. The nose is a little spritzy/cola – CO2. I give the bottle a few shakes to release the gas and leave it to rest for an hour. The fragrance improves to a deep, dark cherry-skin but never the cliché of floral delicacy that the Poulleau offers. Here is depth, density and concentration wrapped up in a super-smooth, beautifully mouth-watering package – just very lovely – though shaded to the dark-red/black spectrum versus the pure red of the Poulleau. Just very fine wine.
Rebuy – Yes

Overall, I prefered the aromatics and colour of the Poulleau wine, but here Thomas has delivered far better balance and concentration – same label, very different styles – but styles of wine rather than barrel etcetera!

poulleau père 2010 volnay vv

By billn on November 23, 2012 #degustation

My first Poulleau – the label is a little for your Grandmother, but she will surely enjoy the contents!

2010 Poulleau Père et Fils, Volnay Vieilles Vignes
Bright, medium, medium-plus colour. High tones, with a growing floral note – quite nice. This is quite fine; lovely acidity and tannin with a little drag but little grain – the fruit is red shaded and grows in intensity through the mid-palate – give it time, and there’s a clear strawberry note. Good finishing flavour with a well of acidity, and decent focus too – a good Volnay.
Rebuy – Yes

françois raveneau 2010 chablis valmur

By billn on November 22, 2012 #degustation

There is a frisson of excitement when you see the yellow wax top – silly I know! This wine was cheaper (in a great restaurant) than I could buy it retail in Switzerland – clearly I had no choice…

2010 François Raveneau, Chablis Valmur
Medium lemon yellow colour. The nose pulls you in with fine minerals, a little lemon fruit, green herb and the impression of a waxy silkiness. In the mouth this is super-smooth, with a very fine, though not amazing, intensity. The flavour is long, majoring on mineral elements rather than fruit – as you would hope – and holds beautifully. The acidity, despite the wine’s intensity, is just a hint understated – though far from lacking. Just a super-competent wine, rather than the epiphany that prices suggest/promise…
Rebuy – Yes

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