As always, I started with an old one, the ’92 Fixin Les Clos from D&V Berthaut – and what a bit of a stunner it was! An enveloping, warm strawberry nose was also reflected by the ripe fruit flavour and a smooth texture to boot. I have just one more of these – and happily so!

Next came the 2010 Rebourgeon-Mure Pommard – and what a difference compared to the villages Volnay from 2 weekends ago; this is deeper in colour, and more intense and brooding too. A polished wine but with rippling muscle despite its understatement. Very drinkable, but partly uncommunicative.

The last wine for this weekend was the 2010 Louis Max, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Azerottes – this, unlike the Pommard, was a typically ebullient 2010 with that ripe core of fresh, juicy fruit. There is a modest amount of structure too, but this was very tasty indeed. I’m yet to have a disappointing wine from this producer…