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the decadence of fourrier’s 2003 clos st.jacques

I bought the wines of this estate from about 1998-2005 – usually a mix of village Gevrey and Chambolle VVs plus the ubiquitous Clos St.Jacques and the Griotte – I think there may have been a couple of Morey Clos Solon purchases afterwards, but even that got to a price that I wasn’t prepared to pay. Not that I ever had bad wines – in fact even the 2004s were pleasers from here – a few corked bottles not withstanding. The biggest shame of the price appreciation of this producer is that these wines never seem to be opened/talked about these days.

Today I’m down to my last few – maybe 15+ bottles – and given that my weekend bottles were of a lighter style, I decided that it was time for a change of gear:

2003 Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
I seem to remember that about the time that this was released, you could buy a whole case (of 12!) of this wine for £300 IB – winesearcher tells me that I can buy a case for £3,300 (IB) today! Before this vintage I had often mused that this CSJ was a more mineral and complex wine than the domaine’s Griotte-Chambertin – so intellectually a more interesting wine – that Griotte being all about accessible fruit and luxurious texture. I see 2003 as a bit of a crossover vintage – the domaine’s Griotte today is all that it should be and has put a gap between itself and the still admirable Clos St.Jacques.
Ooh – now that’s a deeper colour than the weekend’s 96 and 95! The nose has a padded volume of ripe, voluptuous fruit – both engaging and very inviting – becoming a blend of dried fruits, florals and blood! Ooh – and the palate’s a match too! Round, plush – such a decadent texture. Rich flavoured to match the texture but with a nice line – layers of flavour that are a little stony at the core but mouth-watering as it extends into the finish. It’s hard to pinpoint an age – there is so little maturity in the flavour, it’s timeless – almost and so-far – only the colour is telling me that it’s not a youngster. There are days that I could drink this bottle in one sitting, but I’ll hold firm and force myself to follow it over two days – the sacrifices!
Day 2; The floral aroma remains, today with a hint of meaty earth to add to the fruit. The palate seems a little shrill versus day 1 – Fourrier wines never seem as good on day 2 – so drink up on day 1 – it’s worth it!
Rebuy – Yes

weekend wines – week 19 2018

The Spiess was a cheap and super-cheerful wine with sweetness but balanced, gushing acidity – one to be careful of in the sunshine as the bottle will empty very quickly!

1996 Guy Castagnier, Clos St.Denis
Bottle one – such a brutal level of TCA – I didn’t like how the cork smelled when pulled, and the wine did indeed prove to be devastatingly corked – so bottle 2:
Really a very compact nose – it’s certainly clean and fresh – no mushroom, no brett – only very slowly developing a little wild-strawberry – always subtle, never unlikeable. The mouth is classic for the vintage; direct, mouth-watering and almost surprisingly for a Clos St.Denis, with a lovely mid-palate vibration of minerality. In terms of overall size you could be disappointed, but in terms of its delicacy and its modest but engaging complexity, I found this a treat.
Rebuy – Yes (but not he first one of-course!)

1995 Jean Grivot, Nuits St.Georges Les Lavières
I have the impression that everyone has either given up on this vintage, or drunk them all, because I hear nothing about it anymore. But all my recent bottles have been in a fine place:
Another nose of faint strawberry, good clean aromas and a nice line. The palate has more width that the Clos St.Denis but less concentration – this seems ‘lite’ these days but it is open, transparent and engaging – no tannin worth mentioning despite the producer. Very easy to drink, transparent, tasty, accessible wine.
Rebuy – Yes

a replacement for the shocker…

2005 JC Boisset, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Hautes-Jarrons
​As ‘understudy’ to the poor Ecard Savigny I looked to see if I had the same vineyard/vintage from another source – almost – it was a super-sub more like!
A deep colour and still quite young-looking too. The nose is fresh, wide and direct, dark fruit and faint spice. In the mouth too this is a sleek, silky, wine of direction and young dark fruit. It’s a baby, but it’s reasonably approachable too. Really excellent – I’ll try not to touch the remaining three or four bottles for a few more years!
Rebuy – Yes

And for the fun:

2005 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Corton-Perrières
I had one of these when my 6-pack was first delivered – monstrous wine for the patient. As you can see, I’m not totally patient!
What a sublime nose! Transparent, airy yet with a beautiful fresh perfume that intertwines flowers and pure red berry fruit. The palate has lost the massive impact of youth, though is actually still a little one-dimensional today – at least compared to the nose. A super shape and line to this wine, even if the flavours are a little tight. Still, it’s fresh and delivers fine intensity but watch this space for some complexity though. Perhaps another 5 years should elapse before the next one!
Rebuy – Yes

Online – Burgundy Report, March 2018

It’s a couple of days late – sorry about that – but now online is my March report for subscribers:

Included in this issue are the wines of over 50 domaines – about 40 of which are new names to the report.

The domaines cover the full geographic spectrum of Burgundy – from Beaujolais, Chablis, Chalonnaise, Mâconnais, the Côte de Beaune and the Côte de Nuits. One includes a visit to Domaine Rebourseau in Gevrey, looking at the changes put in place since they finally sold their picking machine!

Then there are two tastings from during the Grands Jours de Bourgogne, covering over 60 grand crus.

Finally – what is it about amphora?

So, since my October 2017 report, that’s now over 260 domaines covered and over 2,750 wines from the 2016 vintage tasted. Enjoy…

a shocker of a 2005 savigny…

You could say that this was a disappointment! Maurice Ecard was bought by Bejot in 2006, so certainly before this was bottled. Of-course since the adulteration scandal of 2016, the parent for this ‘brand’ (yes – they all become brands…) is now maison François Martenot…

2005 Maurice Ecard, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Jarrons
I last opened one of these in 2008 – and it was lovely. Hmm, the nose starts with an impression of funk/brett. In the mouth it’s a very raisined style of fruit and even tending to oxidation. I decide to leave it for half an hour to see if it clears up a little – I returned to totally oxidised! Most 40 year-old wines don’t taste like this. The cork is admittedly not very long, but looks to have been a correct seal. Not good. I have another, but I’ll let the pain fade a little before opening it!
Rebuy – No

offer of the day – clos de tart

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I never did see an offer for the 2015, but the 2016 is in today:

Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2016 75cl 448.00* Swiss francs
Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2016 150cl 926.00
Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2016 300cl 2,042.00

And for your reference – the previous offer from the same retailer in 2017:

La Forge de Tart 1er Cru 2007 75cl 148.00
La Forge de Tart 1er Cru 2008 75cl 119.00
La Forge de Tart 1er Cru 2011 75cl 135.00
La Forge de Tart 1er Cru 2014 75cl 169.00

Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2006 75cl 299.50
Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2011 75cl 279.00
Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2013 75cl 324.00
Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2013 150cl 678.00
Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2014 75cl 324.00
Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2014 150cl 678.00
*Prices are ‘delivered’ but subject to 8% Swiss purchase tax.

Practically plus 50% in 2 vintages! That said, they will probably need more than that if the estate was really sold for (about) 300 million!

weekend wines – week 18 2018

2010 Louis Boillot, Les Trois Saints Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs
Fresh, very dry, tasty wine but lacking any great complexity – this was honestly a bit too young – positive for the eventual quality, but for drinking today their Limited Edition cuvée is the one to go for!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Jean Loron, Jean Gamay Noir
A vin de france, not Beaujolais. Honestly there’s some interesting fruit, but this nose isn’t my thing, I find it a little (for want of a better adjective) cheesy – I decanted and it improved, but only a little. By contrast the flavour is brilliant! Depth, pure gamay-fruitedness, a wine that can be drunk far too easily. Just a shame about the nose…
Rebuy – No

2005 Marchand-Grillot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Petite Chapelle
There is some aromatic similarity to the domaine’s 2005 Perrières in terms of the initial impression of the fruit and some high volume oak when young – but no funk – here is a bravado performance without defaults. Like the cordial nose, the first sip is almost too much of everything – too much fruit, too rich – how are we going to drink this? In short order the aromatic vestiges of vanilla oak are gone and there is a fresher and more saline vibe. The flavour too becoming more sleek and interesting. Wow. The best measure bay far, however, is that we thought almost half the bottle waited for our plate of food – actually just half a glass! A wine that goes so effortlessly is a great wine in our household!
Rebuy – Yes

saturday afternoon on the hill of corton

The morning was wet – but about 2pm we had a weather window – so why not a couple of hours above Aloxe and Ladoix?
 

this week’s icymi…

Enjoy!

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