Hmm, despite Claude underlying that Passetoutgrains (historically) should be kept a couple of years before approaching, I wouldn’t recommend it here. The 2009 version of this is jaw-droppingly gorgeous and I would drink it today without hesitation and equally feel confident that it has the quality to age – though probably retaining the perspective ‘but why bother waiting?!’* This, however, (and rather disappointingly!) really should have been drunk a bit younger.

2006 Lafarge, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains l’Exception
Medium-plus colour. The nose is fresh, slightly floral though bordering on a little volatile – but they are alcoholic tones rather than esters. In the mouth – wow – that’s dangerously close to ‘shrill’ – and that comes from a self-confessed acid-o-phile! The tannins are not totally sophisticated unlike the fruit that seems very high quality indeed. Despite looking askance with each sip, I have to say the bottle was easily drained so this wine is certainly not a total loss. The overall package is a let-down, and unless you are talking 20-years-plus, I don’t really see the acidity becomng seamless.
Rebuy – No

My wife gave me a dirty look when she tasted this one – I simply said it was ‘cheap’ – which dear reader, we know is not a word to really associate with Lafarge (I must have been talking generically about the appellation!). Her response after finding out that it was ‘a Burgundy’, was along the lines “well if you are going to buy cheap, why don’t you buy ‘proper’ cheap…!”

*I see Berry Bros are listing the 09 as an en-primeur wine – at £10 each in bond – that’s not too bad I think, even if I wouldn’t want to save it…

Hmm – wacky packaging – I love it, right down to its seal of blue wax! I hear it may be be made with almost no sulfur – lucky it’s still winter then, I hope it passed the last months nice and cool…

2007 de Moor, Chablis Humeur Du Temps
Medium, medium pale yellow. Aromatically a little narrow – but no worry – there are heights and depths here, just a little agrumes at the core. In the mouth this seems a bit slight and acid-led for the first sip, thereafter I really warmed to it; borderline acidic yet coupled to super intensity for such a basic level. Slowly the flavours of flint and rock take on a yellow-fruited accent. Narrow entry, wider in the mid-palate I find this at a similar quality level to some 1er crus. Perhaps the zinging acidity is better-suited to the summer months – but yum!
Rebuy – Yes

Whilst we are always ready to criticise when wines from the same vineyard are completely different, it still seems something to celebrate when wines from the same vineyard share their characteristics – at least based on the existing ‘Burgundy belief systems!’ – perhaps, or despite, only being as it should be. It does, however, seem like a double celebration is required when more than one producer is involved! I think the whites are too often overlooked at this domaine – I still love my 93s…

2009 Joseph Voillot, Meursault 1er Les Cras
Right from the start the aromas could be mistaken for the 08 Buisson-Charles Cras; there is a little more emphasis to the high-toned aromas, but otherwise remarkable similarity! The texture likewise starts similarly, the flavours too, yet the shape of the wine is quite different. Despite a waxy-smooth complexion this starts with a burst and slowly fades – but wait, there is certainly some CO₂ at work in the mid-palate. I think I need to reserve judgement for 30 minutes on that shape! I return and the character of the wine if not completely the shape has changed; the nose has lost some of the higher-toned emphasis (CO₂ now gone I suppose!) and in the mouth it is now smooth for its full length – the early upfront burst of flavour is more elegantly captured by the mid-palate. Similar length, but slightly less intensity versus the 2008 – I guess that’s the vintage acidity talking – another lovely wine.
Rebuy – Yes

A correspondent told me this was in an awkward phase – ‘no surprise it’s a 2005’ I thought – seems not so bad though…

2005 des Croix, Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Popped and poured. Still a relatively deep, purple-highlighted colour. The very faint background reduction mixes with a little oak and higher-toned alcoholic notes – that could be a little CO₂ – let’s see. Slowly that slightly volatile element calms with, first, high-toned redcurrant then raspberry as the aromatic profile becomes more settled. Fine, soft tannin, slightly plush with a very silky texture. Really good pinot flavour and again an oaky impression plus a little creamy depth in the mid-palate. Really fills the mouth but with dimension rather and acid-driven expansion. Super. Wait a couple of hours and the oak/reduction is on a lower level and the nose is both deeper and darker. And the flavour, well it rather recedes – it’s still there and still interesting but you have to chew harder on the tannin to find it – still without the dimension of its early phase. Just very good young wine with a quality level bearing no resemblance to its label.
Rebuy – Yes

Day 2?: The nose is now about blackberry/blackcurrant. The palate is a little unusual as it starts wide but narrows very quickly – the cream undertow is back and the fruit is darker than the first day, but it is almost cordial-like – far too easy to drink!

Here’s a nice comparison!

2008 Alex Gambal, Bourgogne Blanc
There is a slightly more obvious whiff of oak toast on the nose than I remember than from the previous 12 bottles(!) though it remains an accent rather than a dominant tone; round and inviting the aromas remain. In the mouth also quite round with a late arriving, mouth-watering lick of acidity then the subtle extra dimension of fruit that has made this wine a standout chez nous. Still in a lovely place.
Rebuy – of-course

2008 Buisson-Charles, Meursault 1er Les Cras
The nose has less depth, but significantly more width and complexity; initially perhaps a higher-toned hint of mint amongst warm, green leaves and a tight core of fruit. Wow, a narrower entry than the Bourgogne, but waxy smooth before opening – w i d e – and growing and growing in the very impressive mid-palate with a super-tasty, slightly creamy agrumes flavour. The finish is about pure mineral and it’s very long. It’s a beauty.
Rebuy – Yes

Of-course the Buisson-Charles is at least three times the price of the Gambal, but here’s why; the Gambal lubricates your evening conversation with round yet crisp, pretty and clean flavours, the Buisson-Charles becomes your conversation!