A correspondent told me this was in an awkward phase – ‘no surprise it’s a 2005’ I thought – seems not so bad though…

2005 des Croix, Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Popped and poured. Still a relatively deep, purple-highlighted colour. The very faint background reduction mixes with a little oak and higher-toned alcoholic notes – that could be a little CO₂ – let’s see. Slowly that slightly volatile element calms with, first, high-toned redcurrant then raspberry as the aromatic profile becomes more settled. Fine, soft tannin, slightly plush with a very silky texture. Really good pinot flavour and again an oaky impression plus a little creamy depth in the mid-palate. Really fills the mouth but with dimension rather and acid-driven expansion. Super. Wait a couple of hours and the oak/reduction is on a lower level and the nose is both deeper and darker. And the flavour, well it rather recedes – it’s still there and still interesting but you have to chew harder on the tannin to find it – still without the dimension of its early phase. Just very good young wine with a quality level bearing no resemblance to its label.
Rebuy – Yes

Day 2?: The nose is now about blackberry/blackcurrant. The palate is a little unusual as it starts wide but narrows very quickly – the cream undertow is back and the fruit is darker than the first day, but it is almost cordial-like – far too easy to drink!