Whilst we are always ready to criticise when wines from the same vineyard are completely different, it still seems something to celebrate when wines from the same vineyard share their characteristics – at least based on the existing ‘Burgundy belief systems!’ – perhaps, or despite, only being as it should be. It does, however, seem like a double celebration is required when more than one producer is involved! I think the whites are too often overlooked at this domaine – I still love my 93s…
2009 Joseph Voillot, Meursault 1er Les Cras
Right from the start the aromas could be mistaken for the 08 Buisson-Charles Cras; there is a little more emphasis to the high-toned aromas, but otherwise remarkable similarity! The texture likewise starts similarly, the flavours too, yet the shape of the wine is quite different. Despite a waxy-smooth complexion this starts with a burst and slowly fades – but wait, there is certainly some CO2 at work in the mid-palate. I think I need to reserve judgement for 30 minutes on that shape! I return and the character of the wine if not completely the shape has changed; the nose has lost some of the higher-toned emphasis (CO2 now gone I suppose!) and in the mouth it is now smooth for its full length – the early upfront burst of flavour is more elegantly captured by the mid-palate. Similar length, but slightly less intensity versus the 2008 – I guess that’s the vintage acidity talking – another lovely wine.
Rebuy – Yes