Travels in Burgundy 2014

friday in sunny chassagne before the autoroute

By billn on October 25, 2014 #travels in burgundy 2014

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Friends arrive for the weekend today – but in Switzerland! So time for just one visit this morning, in Chassagne, before heading home.

Picture-perfect blue sky. Still about 10° cooler – we didn’t really reach 10°C until lunchtime. Hopefully it’s still as pretty when I get back next Monday. Hopefully Beaune will be a little easier to navigate next week – this week, roads kept being closed for putting up the Christmas lights!

Hmm, only 5 visits in the diary for next week though – so far 😉

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cold, zalto, riedel…

By billn on October 24, 2014 #travels in burgundy 2014

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Ouf! Thursday was cooler – we’ve lost 10°C in 12 hours! Thursday had a brilliant sunrise (for those heading for early appointments in Maranges!) but stayed very cloudy until late afternoon. By 4pm there were the first flashed of blue sky – but don’t tell the people of St.Romain – it was already black as night when I left there!

In the evening I had a little play with, comparing a Zalto, a Riedel and a 2004 Volnay Champans from Count of Lafon. I didn’t find any pyrazines with either glass, but the aromas were a little more herbal in the Riedel versus the more floral and prettier Zalto. 1:0 to Zalto. In the hand though, I found the Zalto stem disconcertingly narrow and it seemed a little top-heavy. The Riedel seems more balanced in my hand – that could be familiarity of-course – the Riedel was more like an old friend. I prefer drinking with old friends!

But that doesn’t mean I won’t keep having a chat with the Zalto 😉

chevalier for breakfast…

By billn on October 22, 2014 #travels in burgundy 2014

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Well, somebody has to do it!

This morning the wind had dropped, but there was also a more noticeable chill: 7°C at 07h30. The light was lovely though, and the vines haven’t yet lost all their leaves from the wind! A mix of grander and ‘insider’ domaines today, including one that previously ‘could do better.’ I was invited for lunch – a shock I know – I’m unrepentant, but I don’t have a list of commercials ‘things’ that I have to avoid on my site, so I’m allowed – I consider myself too grown up for that 😉

Back to my apartment in the evening, it’s still chilly – I will have to jog faster – but first, it’s time to eat the Bolognese that I was too scared to eat yesterday while cleaning. Yum!

every week until christmas!

By billn on October 21, 2014 #travels in burgundy 2014

I arrived in Beaune today, just like I will every week from now until Christmas – some weekends will spent here along the way too. There are just so many 13s to taste and put into some sort of digestible format before the en-primeur offers hit your mailboxes – mainly in January, but some of the schemers (merchants!) are now even sending out their offers in December!

Actually I’d prefer to do all these tastings exactly as I have this year: I mainly tasted the 12s after assembly or bottling. But now I’m up and running with the ‘EXTRA!’ report, readers won’t wait for that – reduced or fizzy people want to know: to buy or not to buy, as Will S would say…

It’s still unseasonably warm here, but it feels just a little cooler because there’s such a gusting wind – occasional heavy downpours too. Still, I’m dry, and despite a little jogging too. I’d planned to crop and post the last of the images for my September report tonight – but it looks like it’s now slipped into Thursday – that’s because a public health imperative intervened! My lodgings were shared with winemakers doing a stage, but now it’s just me – actually not just me – there seemed a mountain of mouldy stuff in the kitchen. I really didn’t know where to put the food I’d just bought. So! Sleeves rolled up, I attacked, defrosted and cleaned the fridge and the freezer. The dishwasher looked frightful too – so all the things that didn’t look properly clean were loaded-up, the ECO program was junked and a long 70°C wash is ensuing as I type. I expect to be able to eat my breakfast from the inside of that machine tomorrow. Okay, gastroenteritis now avoided (hopefully!), I will return to more productive typing tomorrow – oh, but only after visiting 5 domaines…

And for the record, the EXTRA! timetable:

September Issue: This week, is the harvest info issue.
October Issue: Mid-November, is the ‘white domaines’ 2013s issue
November Issue: Mid-December, is the ‘red domaines’ 2013s issue
December Issue: Hopefully as a Christmas present will be the ‘Grandes Maisons 2013s’ as here
January Issue: 2nd half of February, will be the Chablis 2013 issue…

warmth, flies and the colours of autumn…

By billn on October 10, 2014 #travels in burgundy 2014

This week in the côtes I have begun my attack on the 2013 whites – already some lovely wines to recommend. It’s also remained very unseasonably warm – almost 25°C. There was a measure of respite on Friday afternoon – the heavens opened – lots of rain!

But this week, people have been very busy with ‘decuvages’ – basically emptying their (red) fermentation tanks and literally digging out the solid mass of grape and stem residue in the bottom of their tanks. Hot and sticky work! There is also no respite yet from the season’s (drosophila) fruit flies – there are some suzukis about, but mainly it is the traditional European version…

The vineyards are taking on a beautiful colour right now, it’s a shame we had hardly any sun this week to make them more photogenic:

too soft? good! rain and comfy goats

By billn on October 07, 2014 #degustation#travels in burgundy 2014

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Apparently this is a négoce wine from Arlaud – or maybe not – see Mark’s comment…

2012 Arlaud, Bourgogne ‘Oka’
Good, medium-deep colour. The nose is fresh but with a lovely bright and mainly red fruit nose note – it’s very inviting. In the mouth too there’s the same gorgeous fruit note – but – seemingly nothing else, just a fruit cordial impression. I should note that this wine came out of the fridge as we were enjoying 20°C+ temperatures. I decided to let it warm in the glass. Whilst still not very structured, the wine tightens up and certainly shows a little more grip as gets nearer to room temperature. The fruit remains lovely, quite unruffled by any fuss about serving temperature. A tasty-enough wine, but one that ultimately seemed a little facile.
Rebuy – Maybe

I also drank my last bottle of Maison Ilan 2010 Morey Chaffots; it was excellent, the reduction of youth largely now faded. I liked it very much. However, there seems to be too much of a circus surrounding this operation, so my very last bottle, the 2010 Morey Monts Luisants, will be consumed sometime in the next days/weeks…

After all my crowing about the beautiful weather in Burgundy, it seemed only fitting that I mention that today, it’s rained ‘on-and-off’ the whole day. Still a little warm for the time of year, but the colours are quickly becoming more and more autumnal.

It was sunny at the weekend though – in Emmental:

dark side of the sun…

By billn on October 04, 2014 #other sites#travel#travels in burgundy 2014

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Okay, I probably got that album title wrong!

Actually, I’m not really, and obviously tenuously, combining those two thoughts – except that I was too lazy to make two separate posts 😉

The pic above was snapped on my phone yesterday – yet another gorgeous day in the Côtes – but I’ll have to cut that theme/meme short as it’s becoming monotonous! So quickly moving on…

This article (the dark side) also has only a tenuous link with wine as I appreciate it. Yes, I know they are bottles, but the collections have been ‘assembled’ as ‘collections’ not really cellars – the could just as easily be stamps or pictures it seems – hence they are quickly consigned to sale because they have become more valuable and can turn a nice profit. If the ‘collectors’ were suddenly afflicted by a medical condition or a ginormous tax bill, then I could have a little sympathy – but this is clearly not the case. I’m sorry if I can’t see the connection to wine and wine enthusiasts. Actually the routine nature of these sales, even ignoring the possibility of falsifications, seems actually more boring than my pictures of the sun in Beaune!

Indian Summer…

By billn on October 01, 2014 #harvests#travels in burgundy 2014#vintage 2014

I do hope that’s not now regarded as a racist comment(?) Actually I don’t really care 😉

It just goes on and on this fine weather: Low to mid 20s°C and staying largely dry too. I heard of some grapes still being harvested today – but in the Hautes Côtes – which reminds me, I should call Laurent Ponsot – I assume that even he’s finished by now…!

Anyway, embarking on 2013 whites visits today. Some very different styles but lots to love. Who knows what tomorrow will bring!

Burgundy Report

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