The Market

ardhuy & bouchard aîné – doors opening and closing…

By billn on October 26, 2016 #the market

DSC08879Vincent Bottreau, currently the winemaker at Bouchard Aîné has been confirmed as the new winemaker at Domaine Ardhuy. Vincent tells me that he’s hoping to be in place by mid-December.

Of-course this all started with:

  • David Croix moving from Camille Giroud to Jean-Marc Roulot
  • Carel Voorhuis moving from Ardhuy to Camille Giroud
  • Now Vincent Bottreau moving from Bouchard Aîné to Ardhuy
  • So, who next will be moving from ‘xxxx‘ to Bouchard Aîné?

The Boisset group have a habit of employing young new talent, so I’m looking forward to see who will be stepping in Vincent’s shoes!

Anyway, Carel, who has been working part-time at Camille Giroud during the harvest should be fully installed in November – so I have to visit him before that date in Ardhuy, and until December to visit Vincent at Bouchard Aîné – to look at their last vintages – the 2015s…

advini buy maison champy

By billn on October 19, 2016 #the market

Quite an important announcement I think – at a time with very few transactions:

http://www.winespectator.com/webfeature/show/id/Burgundy-Wine-Producer-Maison-Champy-Sold

Advini are also the owners of Domaine Laroche in Chablis – and frankly, despite their ‘factory size’ Laroche have been making outstanding wines for a few years now. Smaller Champy will have much to benefit from, I think…

Returning to my ‘very few transactions’ comment. Burgundy pricing, including land prices are at historic highs, so Advini must have paid a very good (high!) price for this entry into the Côte d’Or. It seems that they have a lot of confidence!

And here is the press-release from Advini:

document

offer of the day – denis mortet’s 2014s

By billn on October 17, 2016 #the market

noble-souchFrom a merchant in Switzerland, today – and even a discount for buying 3 at a time – some of the wines, anyway!

Don’t cases of 12 now sound so 20th century?

Bourgogne Cuvée de Noble Souche 2014, 32.00/bt, 3 bts 27.20/bt (CHF)
Marsannay Les Longeroies 2014, 41.00/bt, 3 bts 34.85/bt
Fixin, Vieilles Vignes 2014, 46.00/bt, 3 bts 39.10/bt
Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs 2014, 65.00/bt, 3 bts 55.25/bt
Gevrey-Chambertin Champonnet 1er Cru 2014, 114.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 1er Cru 2014, 124.00
Chambolle-Musigny Aux Beaux Bruns 1er Cru 2014, 124.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St-Jacques 1er Cru 2014, 135.00
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2014, 250.00

The Noble Souche is a great Bourgogne, indeed simply a great wine, but the argument about buying it reminds me of the case of the (Domaine) Leflaive Bourgogne; the price of this wine is so high, that its peer group is not other Bourgognes, rather village Gevrey-Chambertins…

‘la maison’ – now there’s a video!

By billn on October 11, 2016 #random#the market

Remember my post on the new ‘boudoir’ in Vougeot? Well now there’s a little more info and even a video!

la Maison
1 rue du Vieux Château
21640 Vougeot
Tel: +33 3 80 61 06 10
contact@lamaisonvougeot.com

Tastings: From €25 per person, open from 11h00 to 18h30 Monday to Thursday and Sunday, plus 10h00 to 19h30 Friday and Saturday.
For sale : Wines from Domaine de la Vougeraie, Maison Jean-Claude Boisset & JCB By Jean-Charles. Wine memorabilia, books about Burgundy and wine and ‘other nice things…’

No affiliation, et-cetera…

a synthesis of le montrachet 2016

By billn on October 06, 2016 #other sites#the market#vintage 2016

dsc00827
 Montrachet – 28-Aug-2016.

A really interesting story from Bourgogne Aujourd’hui, yesterday: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Domaine Leflaive, Guy Amiot, Lamy-Pillot and Domaine Fleurot have blended together all of their grapes harvested in Montrachet – or maybe I should say Le Montrachet, as their parcels are all on the Chassagne side.

Normally these domaines would produce 20-30 barrels of wine from their combined 1.25 hectares, but this year, the sum of all their efforts will be 2 barrels worth of wine – all because of the frost at the end of April this year. It was clear that nobody really wanted to do a micro-vinification as it would have been more like a lab-exercise! Note, so exceptional was this frost, that there is no-one alive that can remember a similar event in the vines of Montrachet.

With their négociant licence, it is Domaine Leflaive that will actually make the wine, which will (presumably) be shared between the proprietors when it comes to bottling. These cuvées, in theory, will not be commercialised, as there will be no more than a few cases per producer – I can’t wait to see the label (design) – assuming they use just one label…

la maison – vougeot

By billn on October 05, 2016 #random#the market

dsc01250Last Saturday we paid a visit to a new ‘thing’ in Vougeot.

The Boissets have chosen to open a new retail opportunity in Vougeot – here you can buy the wines of Domaine de la Vougeraie, JCB (from Jean-Charles Boisset) and the Jean-Claude Boisset range overseen by Grégory Patriat. These were previously available in the ‘Imaginarium’ outside Nuits, but the Boissets plan that Vougeot will be the only address where they sell the Vougeraie wines, locally.

The official opening will be the end of this week – maybe – it seems that strategy, timing and purpose remain somewhat fluid.

Both Nathalie and Jean-Charles Boisset were on hand to describe certain aspects of this ‘maison’ fully supported by Gina Gallo. La Maison – Vougeot is purposefully unbranded, but ‘a place where people can come and sit and relax, taste wine and also buy wine if they wish – even special dinners or tastings will be possible here.‘ You buy a card with a certain credit level which you use to feed the wine-dispenser machines – delivering measured pours from bottles under an inert atmosphere. There are multiple rooms too – each very different, yet with some unifying style accents, whether by Murano or Lalique(!) The people who designed and delivered this rather special thing were also present, including the architect currently responsible for both here and the new Boisset cuverie, plus Jacques Garcia, interior designer of, among other things, boutique Paris hotels. Note that you can also buy examples of Jean-Charles’ range of brooches and cuff-links…

I can honestly say that there’s nothing else like it in Burgundy – and I think you might get a real kick out of visiting – even if you only do it once. Part old-gentleman’s club, part swinger-club, style, and it is certainly more Los Angeles than Les Arvelets. I’ll be really interested to see how this will work in ultra-quiet Vougeot – come to think of it, I’ll be interested to see how it works at all – it seems the Boisset family are also not yet fully sure. Actually I find their ‘let’s see’ attitude refreshing.

I didn’t take any pictures outside because it was raining so hard!
 

offer of the day – camus?

By billn on September 17, 2016 #the market

camusI know I harp on about this from time to time, but Camus get the bad press that they deserve with regard to the average quality of their wines, but it is very easy to lose a certain perspective.

Look at the offer I have this weekend from a Swiss merchant (in swiss francs). Now let’s be honest, this is never going to be the best Chambertin, but note the price. You cannot buy a current vintage Chambertin for under €200, indeed the price here is more in the order of a current vintage Chambolle/Vosne/Gevrey/Morey – but a villages wine, not even a 1er cru!*

I haven’t tasted this 2010 for a long time, but let me be clear, this will be a significantly better wine than any villages that you choose to compare it with. I’m drinking some bottles of the ’98 at home every now and then – bought similarly to this offer – and they never cease to please and easily show a grand cru character – even if not a very top grand cru like they should.

So, do you want to drink the best wine you can for your money, or would you rather, for example, drink a proper villages Chambolle? As ever, the choice is really yours 🙂

*There’s 8% Swiss VAT to add to this price – which still means it’s a giveaway…

“can I refill it and put the cork back?”

By billn on September 12, 2016 #the market#warning - opinion!

sour-grapes

I guess I’m going to have to see this one*. I guess I’m still not the only one trying to workout how the auctioneers; Acker, Bagheera, Spectrum and previous Christies management – and they are probably not alone – could make so much money from this – without sanction…

*By the way, Ponsot said that 80% of all pre-1980 wines from a handful of Burgundy producers, at auction, was fake – not 80% of ALL Burgundy wines at auction!

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