Tasted in Gevrey-Chambertin with Sylvie Esmonin, 04 December 2020.
Domaine Sylvie Esmonin
1 Rue Neuve
Tel: +33 3 80 34 36 44
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Sylvie on 2020:
“It’s a year of sacrifice – we are normally 25 people together for the family Christmas – it won’t be like that this year.”
Sylvie on 2019:
“2019 had more pressure from maladies but was almost a normal year as there’s nothing particularly to mark the vintage and we had a ‘normal’ timing for the harvest. It was a small vintage though, due to all the millerande grapes – very good ripeness but not too much. I don’t like to harvest too early as I like to have some maturity – it would otherwise be complicated with the whole clusters. I was nearly 30% down in 2019 and that was the small berry size dictating – just 27 hl/ha. I actually have only 22-25 hl/ha in 2020 too but there’s a little more wine than in 2019 as I have additional vines in the Bourgogne. But my wines are made only from grapes and a little bit of sulfur – and it really is only a little – because I’m a bit allergic to it!
“I think of 2018 as flamboyant and exuberant, 2019 is more discreet but longer, there’s also more purity and I think it better shows the climats today. 2020 is still growing in elevage – impressively so – I’ve no idea yet where it will end!”
Such an excellent set of wines chez Sylvie – some vintages in the 2000s brought some more gothic interpretations of the whole clusters, but the ripeness of the recent vintage has banished such thoughts – today it’s all sophistication and perfume.
This from Pressoniers in Gevrey. 0.80 ha – there is a new parcel in 2020 with an additional 0.25 ha – still in Gevrey but closer to the border with Morey St.Denis.
Deep colour. A dark nose but still one of pure fruit. The palate showing good energy and is mouth-wateringly long. Textbook Bourgogne with Gevrey twist. Bravo.
2019 Cote de Nuits Villages
Here 2 parcels from Brochon
A small touch of reduction here so, of course, a dark and deep nose but one that becomes more perfumed with air. More direct, silky texture with both width and depth of flavour. Long, wide finishing – indeed great finishing for the label I love this.
Also old vines the second (VV) villages cuvée is actually TVV says Sylvie. Stony here, ‘Which brings a wine with a little more finesse.’
A nose that’s bigger, broader, fuller – very impressive! Extra-wide on the palate, faintly grained tannin, the fruit with a mocha accent. A wine with presence. Excellent, indeed the finish is great for villages – like the last. Simply excellent wine.
Two parcels of vines of approximately 100-years-old.
A much fresher and more mineral nose. In the mouth more direct, practically linear wine – fresh with fine intensity. A tannin, but no obvious grain. Not austere but most definitely a wine to keep – if you seek a little generosity, then take the previous wine.
Like the others, lots of colour. Fine, silky and fresh in the mouth. Much more mouth-filling – a wine that focuses on the width than the direction – no grain to this tannin, either. A wine of stature, like the VV, and a certain degree of structure. Elegant but also very long finshing – that’s a great wine.