Tasted in Chambolle-Musigny with François Millet, 25 November, 2020.
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
7 Rue Sainte-Barbe
21220 Chambolle-Musigny
Tel: +33 03 80 62 86 25
More reports for Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
François on 2019, so far:
“We were lucky, we escaped the frost, unlike some parts of the Côte de Beaune. 14 September was the starting date for our harvest. The wines benefited from the September harvest, vs 24 august in 2020 and vs 23 August in 2003. It’s a vintage of low rendement – we don’t have large rendements here, but in 2019 we had just 20 hl/ha. The effects were cumulative; not much juice from the summer weather and a less than ideal springtime. I didn’t expect the profile that we ended up with, I was expecting wines that would be little more sombre and with darker fruits, but there was some concentration of the acidity and more red fruits.
“The wines have a sensual touch and show gellied fruit. There’s a lot of poise in this vintage. We needed to be prudent with the extraction as there wasn’t much juice – only the Bonnes-Mares saw a little pigeage. Serene, calm, lots of positives. The 2018s have more direct authority, this vintage brings more reflection.”
The wines…
A really fabulous selection of cuvées at this domaine in 2019. Buy what you can, or are allowed to…
2019 Chambolle-Musigny
Plenty of colour. There’s both depth and a certain freshness here, quite dark fruit, but with very nice definition. A width of flavour, beautifully textured, deeply fruited, very elegantly finishing.
I rarely have such a fabulous impression from this nose, but in 2019 it’s dynamic, it’s perfumed, there is depth and purity of fruit – but never heavy – bravo! Fine, red fruits, slightly darker red fruits too. Layered, complex, beautiful shape no unnecessary density, almost a blood orange finishing freshness. A tour de force for this ‘baby’ wine in 19.
Crystalline – wow! Darker fruit but of such beautiful focus – bravo again – and that’s just the nose! Wide, supple a little more intense than the Chambolle 1er, a certain extra energy. An extra finishing intensity too – ooh these wines are grand this year!
2019 Bonnes-Mares
‘This wine needs contact, there were some punch-downs for this – the wines have more structure in the north.’
There is an easy freshness to this nose that I hardly expect having noted the depth of colour, but it is so. Yet this width of darker fruit, of berries and cherries and more… is just so complex. Deep, layered, mouth-filling, faintly saline, such concentration but also such balance. It could have more energy – for greatness – at least versus how it shows today, but the texture, concentration and complexity are simply first class!
I thought the young vines was good, but the old vines know how to operate too; extra aromatic complexity in all directions – almost a graphite minerality too – I’m thinking ‘the purest tarte au myrtilles’ in the base of the aromas. After the Bonnes-Mares here’s a different level of energy and freshness – intensity too. Vibrantly growing in volume in the finish, before a long, slow, diminuendo of flavour. Grand Vin – as it should be!