Tasted in Vosne-Romanée with Maxime Cheurlin 20 November, 2020.
Domaine Georges Noëllat
1 Rue des Chaumes
Tel: +33 3 80 61 11 03
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I was lucky the day that I visited Maxime – despite the heavy rain – because the team were just back from making an additional 2020 harvest – all the ‘second set’ clusters from two quite grand vineyards; Chambolle 1er Les Feuselottes and grand cru Grands-Echézeaux. Maxime saying – “I often thought about making a later pass in the vines to collect the later bunches – and if you were ever going to do it, 2020 would be the year!” I was lucky not just to see the excellent looking grapes, but also to join the picking team – including Maxime’s dad – for an impromptu late, and hot, breakfast!
Maxime on 2019:
“2019 brought not too bad a volume – up to 35 hl/ha – that’s certainly a lot more than we got in 2020! ”
I missed a few vintages here as the wines were rarely showing well in my normal =ctober-December tasting window – Maxime always preferring a long elevage – but this year the wines were much more open that has been my previous experience. Some great wines but of course, some still not quite ready to share their secrets.
Bottling of these 2019s will, probably, not begin before May or June 2021:
2019 Beaune 1er Tuvillains
Had these (old) vines since 2016.
Tight but fresh and pure aromatics. Layered, concentrated – seemingly with a freshness of aroma in the mouth too – lightly oaked but showing well in a slightly muscular way – and it’s a great finish.
2019 Beaune 1er Clos de la Mignotte (Monopole)
Had these vines since 2017
Higher-toned red fruit, more open, the aromas going deeper and more floral too. Fresher, more intense, showing a more energetic and mineral style – thats really super. Fresh and mouth-watering, long finishing and with density too. Simply an excellent wine.
Old vines the average is about 90.
More floral, it’s a cliché to say spiced but perhaps a little of that too! Width, energy, a certain extra structure but not tannic. Juicy flavour – thats a great and almost electric wine – bravo!
2019 Vosne-Romanée 1er les Chaumes
Ooh, that’s a lovely nose; higher-toned, floral, just hyper-inviting. Wide, open, nice architecture, mouth-watering again, strong finishing – layered. All the wines finishing with power so far. Excellence here.
2019 Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Petits Monts
Higher toned, stonier and quite mineral – this is a less flattering nose but also more vibrant. Not as wide but with an interesting and deliciously mouth-watering flavour. A salivating finish, thats super – really!
Tighter but this nose is still wide and freshly silky. Ooh, thats a great wine – both texturally, with freshness and length. Bravo!
2019 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Feuselottes
A contract here since 2019, together with Bonnes-Mares and others.
Less colour. A more overtly complex though less focused nose – attractive all the same. Layered, silky, very complex flavoured, here with some impression of stems but there’s perfume too. Almost a licorice flavour to finish. Long, less salivating but delicious wine.
2019 Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaumonts
Old vines at the bottom of the climat.
Pure dark red berries – completely different. This is wide, concentrated, richer yet still with a cool freshness. More monolithic flavour here – certainly a wine to wait for. Chewy tannin in the finish.
A more serious nose, not yet fully formed – with more air there’s the first flowers of spring. Wide, concentrated but not the more monolithic style of the Beaumonts. A certain compact style all the same, only reluctantly melting over the palate, and sharing some of its flavours. You think it’s finished but then there’s a reprise in the finish – tons of potential here.