Tasted in Gevrey-Chambertin with Pierre Duroché, 23 November 2020.
Pierre on 2020:
“Winter 2020 brought a little rain, which was good – unlike 2019 when the winter was already quite dry. That said, despite plenty of grapes in 2020 we finished with 20 hl/ha – due to the dryness. We started early – 22 August – there was a small parcel earlier but the real start was 22, and we also finished in August the 29th. We had some risk of oïdium but we seemed to avoid it – so in the end an easy year; starting quite early and finishing quite early too but close to half a harvest. ”
Pierre on 2020:
We’ve got a lot of old vines so 30 hl/ha is about average for us – 60-100-years-old – and we made our average in 2019. We’ve one vineyard that seems to freeze quite often – Elelois near the Route Nationale but I think we avoided it here in 2019. 12 September was our starting time to harvest.
A really super range – unfortunately with rather timid aromatics today – a root day(!) – but not lacking complexity or purity here though. The favours certainly lacked for nothing – airy, ethereal on one hand but persistent and concentrated on the other – really the energy and depth bringing a top balance. A super range of 19s – well done Pierre.
All to be bottled in 2 weeks:
2019 Bourgogne Côte d’Or
Vines in Gevrey 2 parcels Roncevie is one and a small amount in Brochon.
This nose is quite tight but shows occasional flashes of red fruits. Incisive, growing over the palate, a leading edge of acidity but not too overt – followed by a good depth of flavour. That’s quite good – the finish is good one.
10 different parcels assembled – east Gevrey and vines near Brochon – over 3 ha from the domaine’s 8.5 ha.
Again plenty of aromatic depth, but the nose is rather tighter above. Fresh, wider than the Bourgogne – silkier too. Nicely growing intensity and supple in the middle – this is elegant, pure and very accessible. Lovely wine, holding very well too!
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jeunes Rois
Actually not so Jeunes – these were planted in 1952! From the Brochon side.
Also a smaller nose but this time with a sweet cushion and an attractive impression that florals lie within. Wide again, equally fine texture to start before a little tannin shows – ripe and grainless. Vibrant in the middle towards the finish – I like this energy very much. Excellent!
A little more open though not much more aromatic volume. More mineral – ooh that’s lovely – extra mouth-watering – juicy wine – but not because of more overt acidity. That’s a super wine, just a little plushness to the texture. Bravo villages!
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Lavaux St.Jacques
1.20 hectares, a part (which follows) planted in 1923 – in all 6 parcels
Starting compact but my extra swirling brings a little extra interest – slowly adding more visible depth of aroma – always improving. More power, a little more weight and certainly more visible tannin – but still such a fine grain. Long and quite powerful finishing – a rather mineral impression too and not with the facile sweetness of many wines in 19. Excellent wine.
Super elegant and a little more vertical – with higher and lower tones that are visible and rather pure. Extra juicy direct from the attack – wide, love this energy. There’s more tannin but it’s practically lost in this ebullient energy. I love – Bravo – there’s more concentration but this wine also dances!
The nose here is quite wide at the base, a little cushioned, and just hinting at floral aspects above. A little reductive but also rather mineral too – that’s a rather classy Charmes – many can be a little ‘easy’ but this has a little strict and correct side to it – a Swiss Charmes!
In 16 only one barrel from the quarter hectare!
Just a little less colour. A wide, easy, silky, very attractive nose. Mouth-filling the most volume yet – fresh, the structure providing a beautiful framework. Properly mineral finishing, long, delicious but like the others, not facile. That’s a very fine range so far. Excellent Latricières, great wine.
These vines planted in 1920, so 99-year-old vines this vintage – the oldest of the domaine.
Yes, there is some extra aromatic depth here. Ultra-wide, fine intensity, very mouth-watering. A base of über-fine-grained tannin but no dryness. Bravo! Last drops in the glass very floral
And to finish:
Plenty of colour – some age. The nose of older pyrazine – 11 or 04? Well, 11 is already older these days, so that’s my guess… Wide, beautiful shape over the palate and fine intensity of flavour too. Long, really persistent. It’s a 2011 Estournelles St.Jacques that’s surprisingly concentrated in the middle and finishing quite well.