Tasted in Messanges with Jérémy Recchione, 01 October 2020.
Jérémy is now working completely for himself, previously he was working with Pierre Naigeon. After the 2019 harvest, Jérémy was able to pick up some vines just around the corner here in the Hautes Côtes. So now he’s producing about 5-6,000 bottles but says that he’s not looking to grow ‘just for the sake of it – the range has been pretty consistent.‘
Jérémy is still looking to work as naturally as possible in the vines – he has worked the soil the help of a horse too – organic but with biodynamic treatments has been his programme so far, at the same time reducing the amount of copper he sprays to the absolute minimum; “It’s important for me to have the fruit trees and everything around to bring a balance to the area. For the wines I just add a little sulfur after the malolactic fermentation – that’s a small change I’ve made since the 2017s. In my wines I want to keep the fruit and the freshness but there are vintages where the yeasts and bacteria on the grapes are of such a type or volume that you have to protect the wine with sulfur. I don’t differentiate between treatments in the vines and treatments for the wines – I don’t want a big dose of anything.
“In the vines not looking for rendement, the pruning was really quite severe the first year – though some compost was added to the soil too. All the work is done by hand and hoof – but I anyway don’t have the size to buy a tractor anyway!”
About 60% of the production is now exported – vs a couple of years ago but local specialized ‘cavistes’ are very interested.
Some great wines from Jérémy in 2019 – some off-the-wall too – but they are not any less great!
A skin contact for nearly 3 days – cold – an infusion to give a little additional character – ‘the tanks were ceramic here – ‘jars’ – they give a little tension.’
A forward and quite deep nose – grapey but interesting and clean. Mouth-filling – of this is joyously flavoured – intense but not sharp, round but not fat – really mouth-watering, almost juicy – a little green gooseberry in there. Bravo – delicious!
Not yet bottled, 500-litre barrel elevage – Le Village and Le Jarrons assembled – probably not bottled until well into 2021. Perhaps this the only wine with DIAM
Yes, the aroma is a little fermentary – it needs more time. But bubblingly juicy wine – the core of a ripe citrus fruit – a little bit of fat but more than balanced by the energy. This will be excellent.
All whole clusters used here.
A little attractive softness, much of the cushion coming from the supple whole-cluster element. Hmm, this has intensity but also a really super clarity of fruit. Dark but crunchy – none of the flabbiness of fruit that so easy to find in 2018 for instance. Holds the finish well with a little graphite-style finishing minerality in the flavour. This I really love – Bravo!
In Brochon – not yet bottled.
Deeply aromatic – not much higher tones showing except a little hint of the whole-cluster rose-petals. A little extra concentration, of width, faintly saline flavours but again of clarity like the Bourgogne – that’s really great again – what a range so far!
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Creux Brouillard
Bottled. Next to Les Crais
A fuller aroma – a darkness of fruit, ripe but at the same time with a very attractive freshness. Great volume in the mouth – the extra tannin here ‘clouding’ the clarity of the previous wine – only a little. But that’s a fine and complex – very open – finish. Delicious but really worth a little extra patience – it will age very well.
2019 Fixin 1er Les Hervelets
Bottled all whole cluster, just a little longer fermentation vs the Hautes Côtes – a few pigeages only.
An open nose – a little meaty and dark fruited. But that’s really lovely in the mouth – round, welcoming, melting its wares over the palate. Touched with micro-grained tannin but hardly an accent of astringence. I’d want the aromas to improve with aeration – and they do a little in the short time I’m with the wine – but the flavours are top…
And now for something different:
It needed to be declassified to VdF but ‘it was still worth making – I’ve considered it for a while,’ says Jeremy..
Really great. That’s clearly a gamay nose but just a little different. Also in the mouth, I would say gamay but the framing is different. Juicy, tasty wine – joyous wine – bravo – it’s bottled but it doesn’t have a name yet