Tasted in Gilly-lès-Citeaux with Romuald & Romaric Boursot, 26 November 2020.
Romuald & Romaric on 2020:
“A hot one, no frost this time. We rented a couple of refrigerated wagons to keep the harvested grapes in a good temperature range. 2017-18 had good yields but 19 and 20 are both about 25% lower.”
Romuald & Romaric on 2019:
“We had about 25% less yield, some frost was partly to blame. A little more rain but also more heat vs 2020 – wines with a nicer freshness than 2018, which resembles 2015 here. Partly because of that we harvested a little earlier than in 2018. Starting 12 September.”
The team here are using some jars (amphora) now – over 300 litre size with good oxgen transfer – they love the aromatics though feel that the blend of barrel and jar elevage offers the best result. They will slowly add a few more jars to confirm – or not. Also some no sulfur vinifcations are in-progress, now.
The team here continue to serve up a belend of excellent and great wines – they should be better known – the wines speak for themselves!
All in bottle since mid-October:
2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Grapes coming from Vosne…
Ooh, that’s a very pretty and pure red fruit nose – almost cordial or gellied. A small grain of tannin at the base. Wide, easy, completely delicious and broad finishing – Bourgogne as it should be!
From Les Ratteuses – but no rats.
A little more depth of aroma, redder fruit – this vinified without sulfur and clearly very well done as there are no faults because of that. That’s a lovely depth of flavour, accented by some oak in this case – though none was new – I would wait a few months for that to fade. Wide and very tasty finishing all the same…
The continuation south of Clos de Marechale – also with about 30% amphora elevage.
That’s a pretty nose, quite strawberry in style – quite some elegance despite an obvious depth to the aroma. Bright, fresh but with concentration too – love the drive and mouth-watering style. That’s a great CDNV! Bravo!
A single parcel, but covering two climats.
A bit more colour here. A darker colour for the fruit too, faintly spiced with fine clarity. More structure but open finely textured wine – very mouth-watering. Extra depth to the flavour – excellent wine.
In the corner of Clos de Vougeot and Grands Echézeaux – one parcel in Bas Maizières – 65-year-old vines.
Lots of colour for this wine. A more muscular depth of aroma, but wide and faintly spiced – that’s a nicely interesting and inviting note. Sleek, direct, mouth-watering – lovely layers of energetic flavour. The style – shape – nothing to do with the previous wines. That’s at least excellent.
2019 Chambolle-Musigny Les Nazoires
Pretty, darker, fruit of clarity with a modest floral impression too. Wide, mineral, fresh – rather elegant fruit. Delicious, complex, proper Chambolle…
2019 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Lavrottes
Only 4 proprietors of this cru, 3 of whom make their own wine.
A little more depth and width to the aroma – there’s more power here. Wide on the palate too, airy but concentrated a nice line to tread. Complex, long and very tasty once more, finishing with a touch of salinity and a hint of probably barrel-derived caramel. Excellent wine…
‘A small depression in the terroir here that brings a bit more power and warmth in the mouth.’
Darkly fruited but still fresh and slightly spiced. More width and minerality – ooh, that’s got some extra energy too. Clarity here, not the finely textural complexity of the Lavrottes. Delicioussly perfumed in the finish – really a wine of violets here. Bravo – I love this!
About 70-year-old-vines vnes.
A delicacy of pure darker fruit on the nose – super depth too. That’s also, like the Vosne VV on the palate – very sleek & direct and with super freshness. Great wine, not the most powerful finishing but persistently long. Bravo!
A new wine here, a contract for the grapes, but harvested with own team and with their timing – the same as CDNV which has been a contract here for 20 years. A higher parcel of vines.
Concentrated, a touch of freshness – I should say enough freshness – tighter but clearly of latent aromatic power, slowly growing. Drive, freshness, growing width. That’s really excellent. Some oak is certainly present but then there’s only one barrel of this. This will make a great bottle – possibly always accessible, but if you can, wait 10 years – 20 will be better!
2019 Bourgogne Chardonnay
From bottom of Puligny – ‘The Côte d’Or label has no visibility yet – PTG still has more visibility than Côteaux Bourguinone for example.’ 300 little barrels used here.
Aromatic, indeed slightly mineral too. A nice grain, easy over the palate, tasty, very well made wine, nicely Bourgogne in style.