Tasted with Sophie Noellat and Arnaud Sirugue in Vosne-Romanée, 02 October 2020.
Arnaud and Sophie Sirugue-Noellat
5 Place de la Maire
Tel: +33 6 37 42 92 18
www.domainearnaudetsophie.com (not yet connected)
Sophie Noellat and Arnaud Sirugue represent two important branches of producers in Vosne-Romanée. As a married couple with two young boys, it’s also not unreasonable to assume that they will form the nucleus of a very important single domaine in the future. For now, they are taking baby steps, having made their first (single) wine together in 2016, but have expanded just a little each year since then.
Arnaud & Sophie: “Yes, we started little négoce but it was with the philosophy of a domaine; precision not quantity but for things that please us. The 2016 Vosne was our first wine – vines from our parents. We decided the picking date and picked it ourselves. This wine was made from a villages parcel in Les Barreaux but we think it’s the best part of Barreaux; on the hill facing the rising sun, close to Cros Parantoux and Petits-Monts. We decided to use some whole-clusters when vinifying – a minimum of 50%, more if the vintage allows. In 2018 we could buy Meursault Grands Charrons and Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs too.”
I note that there is also a Passetoutgrains Rosé here – it was Arnaud who started making this at his family domaine, but since then it has moved to A&S.
The wines are mainly exported from France. The main market is Japan, but plenty heads to Denmark too.
There’s not much, but they are definitely to look out for!
2019 Meursault Les Grands Charrons
Still in barrel. In 2019 there is less than in 2018 as there were lower yields.
Not yet bright. A big nose, a little fermentary but it’s still fresh and packing a punch. Wide over the palate, and with a nice direction to the flavour despite showing a little richness today.
Also very young. Probably not to be bottled before Feb-March. I like the aromatic freshness here. Hmm, lovely drive and freshness in the mouth, a lovely texture too. An extra peak of flavour in the finish. This has great potential for a villages.
The first vintage in 2016 was simply labelled as Vosne-Romanée – since then they have added the Lieu-dit to the label. Old vines – 50-60-years-old – on quite a steep and sandy soil – ‘it’s very well-draining so the vines need good roots.’
High toned and quite perfumed. Beautiful shape in the mouth, direct but growing in complexity in all directions. Freshness, mouthwatering flavour – practically juicy. A little structural texture of the tannin in the finish. Certainly excellent, perhaps with even more potential!
And to compare:
Bottled in March, right at the start of confinement. One new barrel from 7…
This is a nice and airy nose, slowly augmenting with florals too. Wide, silky, juicy wine. The same finishing grain as the 2019, but there’s such a beautiful width of finishing flavour here. That’s a great villages!